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Nepal |
Nepal, the rooftop of the world, one of the highest nations on earth, and one of the poorest, yet rich in local colour and hospitality. Nepal was one of the friendliest most enjoyable countries we visited in our World Tour. We would definitely go back there. We arrived in Kathmandu, after a gruelling two day bus journey from Agra in India. It's an amazing city where ageing hippies have largely been superseded by fit young outdoors types, and every street boasts at least a dozen adventure travel operators. It's much easier to deal with than any of the Indian cities we visited, and there is plenty to keep you entertained, whether it's the history, bargain hunting or just plain chilling out that you want to do.
Undoubtedly the highlight of our time in Nepal was a superb Seven day trek with our own private guide through Himalayan foothills. Things started actually started very badly, since we never made it onto the trek we'd booked and our guide nearly ended up in jail. Things could only get better, and thankfully they did.
As well as trekking, Nepal is a great place for outrageous white water rafting, and again there is much variety to fit all grades and appetites for adventure. We finished up our trip with a visit to the ancient city of Bhaktpur, where it's as if time has stood still for the last three centuries.
| In the cybercafe in Kathmandu, the screensaver on the computers is a picture of a Buddhist Guru with fuzzy black hair who bears a remarkable resemblance to Jimmy Hendrix. But this is Kathmandu,and for most of the ageing hippies that hang out here, Jimmy Hendrix is religion! We were robbed again in Nepal. This time someone stole my sleeping bag from the top of a bus just as we were setting out on a seven day trek. This definitely isn't a good time to lose your sleeping bag! I began to wonder if at this rate the only thing I'd have left when we returned to the UK would be my underpants, but more of this later. | ||
| Nepal is a breathtakingly beautiful country, and we found it wonderfully relaxing after the constant hassles of India. No we weren't on drugs, though they were in plentiful supply in the streets of Kathmandu. Just walking around in Thamel, the tourist district you're constantly approached by shady blokes muttering "smoke? smoke?" as they pass you by, and I don't think they're handing out Woodbines. We arrived here from India on the 4th October after a gruesome (and I mean really dreadful) 2 day bus journey. The bus was described as 'Supreme Luxury Deluxe Coach', which meant it had seats and a roof. It certainly didn't have any suspension, and the engine wasn't up to much either. Flooding in the plains of Uttar Pradesh meant that we had to divert for hours along rutted single track dirt roads through remote villages, where the locals stared at us as if we were from outer space. Our average speed can't have been more than 10kmh. | ||
| Kathmandu was
marvelous though, well worth the pain involved in getting there. The
people were very friendly and not as in your face as India. There are
dozens of interesting shops selling local crafts. As usual, some of it
is tat, but there are some great bargains to be had. There are also lots
of western bookshops, selling both new and second hand books - a great
place to stock up. I bought 'Into Thin Air' by Joe Simpson, a gruesome
account of the disastrous Everest expeditions of a few years back. Katie
bought the life and times of the Dalai Lama. If it's drugs you're into, then I'm afraid the days of Hippies squatting in the temples of the Dubar Square on a 24 hour a day trip are gone. Most of the western visitors these days were fresh-faced out-doorsy folk seeking adventure on high level Himalayan Treks, or shooting the rapids on Nepal's rivers. Kathmandu is the place to book your treks. If you wait til you get here, you may need to do a lot of shopping around to find a trek with space, or an available guide. Most agencies like to pre-book. Having said that, if you book in town, it is much cheaper than doing it from the UK. The UK travel agents mark-ups are enough to make you cry! We spent a couple of days just hanging out in Kathmandu, looking for a trek, sampling the culture and just chilling out. There is plenty to see and do here. The city is crammed with life, there are some fantastic temples and palaces to check-out, there is the not-to-be missed the Swayambu Buddhist shrine, and in the eveneings you can relax or rave in tons of great bars and cafes. |
 Durbar Square, Kathmandu |
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| Where
to Stay in Kathmandu |
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| Nepal
Guest House "Come as a guest, leave as a friend" is the motto of this establishment. It's a lovely clean friendly place, located close to the action on the edge of the Thamel district, but tucked up a quiet side street. Contact details: Nepal Guest House, Thamel, Chetrapani, Khathmandu, Tel: 252605, email: tribeni@wlink.com.np |
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| Adventure
Guides in Kathmandu |
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| Trekking
Agencies Should I book a guide before I get there? There are dozens of trekking organisations operating out of Kathmandu, so there really isn't any need to book before you get there. You may however find that some of the more popular treks are fully booked, or that you have to wait a few days before a trek starts. No matter - Kathmandu is a great place to hang out. We booked our trek with Kantipur Trekking, located in a small office up a side street in the touristy Thamel district. It was about the fourth trekking agency we had tried, and we picked it mainly because we liked and trusted the trek-leader, Madhu, and because we were able to build a custom itinerary, in a small group - just the two of us. The trek was far from uneventful - check it out! |
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| White
Water Rafting We chose N.K's River Experience Ltd, 5/751 Freak Street. Tel: 240318. Good quality equipment, and well trained guides. Fantastic lunch included in the trip. |
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You are
reading the story of Adrian and Katie's travels through the India Nepal
and the Far East between August 1998 and February 1999.
Adrian and Katie have put the rat race on hold for a year to travel the
world.
Adrian & Katie's World Tour News - Nepal Last Updated: 21 October 2000 Web Page by Adrian Ball (email: adrian.ball@virgin.net)
