Welcome to the 'bulb frame'- here you will find basic information on the subject of growing bulbous plants. All the information here is based on my own practices which have evolved over the years. I will be developing further sections in time but to start the ball rolling, a few of my favourite genera and tips on growing them are listed here.

JUNO IRIS - NOTES ON CULTIVATION

I have devoted a 12' x 3' plunge to the collection of juno Iris and of the 55 species known, 34 are currently grown here. I would be the first to admit that some of these maintain a tenuous presence with only single bulbs but as new crops of seedlings come on and offsets develop, the future holds promise of maintaining many of these. There are in addition, several hybrids and as seedlings mature, it is likely that the hybrid collection will develop further! My first aim is to maintain as many of the true species as possible with the exception of the tender 'winter growers' which would not have a reasonable chance of survival (no frost free facilities).

My first recollection of an introduction to this group of Iris was the sight of Iris rosenbachiana (pictured right) in flower.

Iris rosenbachiana © Jim Almond 2001 I was instantly smitten by the delicacy and intricate bright colours of the flowers. During the early 1990’s, I obtained bulbs of what later turned out to be the two ‘extremes’ of the group when considering ease of cultivation (II graeberiana and persica).

Iris graeberiana in hybrid form is still with me now, having multiplied to the stage where a 30cm pot is now bursting at the seams. Iris persica did not persist for too long initially and has always proved with succeeding attempts to be one of the more intractable species. Between these two extremes, there are a wealth of other species which I would describe as ‘reasonably accommodating’ in cultivation, given alpine house and sand plunge cultivation. Virtually all the species are blessed with flowers, amongst the most beautiful of all alpine plants, certainly worthy of the care and attention they deserve.

Starting with the easy species which comprise: II. graeberiana, bucharica, willmottiana (pictured left), magnifica, vicaria, cycloglossa and various hybrids involving these species.

Iris willmottiana © Jim Almond 2003 I much prefer to grow these in large clay pots, exposed to the weather for most of the year. Some are undoubtedly good garden plants which given a sunny well drained position will be happy outside - a dry summer rest is unnecessary. Potting on is done every other year with bulbs increasing naturally by offsets which may be detached during this procedure.

Those of a ‘reasonable’ persuasion would include: II kuschakewiczii, rosenbachiana, nicolai, stenophylla, narbutii, orchoides, tadschikorum as representative examples. These spend opportunistic time outside when initial growth above the top dressing is noted, provided that rainfall is not forecast. This exposure and subsequent provision of maximum light and ventilation is critical to keep plants in character, especially if exhibition is being considered. As the foliage and flowers develop, great care is taken to avoid water lodging in the foliage but as I routinely water with a hose, water can be directed to the plunge only or pot rim if a dilute feed is being given. Once the foliage of these species starts to die back in late spring, water is completely withheld. The pots are removed form the plunge and placed beneath the staging until late autumn and repotting time. There is no need to provide a Summer ‘bake’, indeed with some species this may cause the fleshy roots to shrivel and disappear.

Regular inspection and repotting of the smaller juno collection is normally started in late September and with other bulbs to consider can actually take until November. New material is normally potted on receipt to prevent excess desiccation, despite their hot dry summers in nature, bulbs are protected by planting depth from being excessively dried out!

The first stage of repotting is to ‘clean up’ the contents and remove all dead material and debris. The pot contents are turned out all previous compost is removed, then very carefully, all dried fibrous or dead root material and dried outer bulb tunics are removed. Cleaned bulbs may be repotted as a group or divided and offsets removed as ‘insurance’. The practice of removing a fleshy root with portion of basal plate, particularly if an embryo offset can be seen is another reliable means of increase. Care must be taken to dust any cut or damaged surfaces with sulphur, which are than allowed to dry for 24 hours. The repotting ritual becomes justified when the amount of rubbish is accumulated by the clean up process is considered - another fungal nightmare just waiting to happen.

After selecting a clean pot of appropriate size, juno bulbs are roughly positioned with their base approximately half way down, they are then dusted with dolomitic chalk which acts as a secondary fungicide. Compost is then added to a level just below the base of the bulbs and a thin layer of sharp sand is added. Any bulbs which have ‘lost’ their fleshy roots, either by mishap or withering, are bedded into this layer and then the pot is filled up to the rim with clean 5mm horticultural grit. The obligatory label is added and pots transferred to the sand plunge of the alpine house where their first watering is given.

A final word on juno Iris cultivation, they are particularly susceptible to virus infection which is chiefly transmitted by aphids. Periodic application of a systemic insecticide is advocated as a preventative measure - cure is irrelevant as there is none! Signs of virus include white streaked or distorted foliage and aberrant flowers, the entire plant must be swiftly despatched before neighbours succumb!


GALANTHOPHILIA - AN INTRODUCTION TO SNOWDROPS

Few bulbs epitomise interest in the Winter and early Spring garden as much as the Snowdrop. Despite the superficial similarity between the 19 Galanthus species and seemingly endless list of hybrids and cultivars, they attract a following of cult like proportions, deservedly so as many are first rate garden plants.

Galanthus associate well with alpines, provided the site is not too dry they will thrive and provide early season interest before quietly disappearing into late spring dormancy. Dormancy is the period I believe best suited to moving and distributing them (as with all other bulbs) but they must never be allowed to desiccate or sit around waiting to be replanted. The practice of moving ‘in the green’does work if done carefully, quickly and with bulbs replanted with the minimum of root disturbance.

Late season replanting is also a good time to divide clumps and dormant bulbs may have offsets removed which will, given a further year’s growth quickly form a flowering size bulb. They are quite easy to grow in pots (despite myths to the contrary) and this is an ideal means to grow offsets on or maintain insurance stock of rare items. The usual rules of pot cultivation of bulbs apply, a well drained growing medium, kept just moist during the dormant period should ensure success.

The genus is well represented in gardens by the ubiquitous G. nivalis, a fine garden subject but with a little searching through nursery lists and swapping with friends a host of different and in most cases, superior flowering bulbs can be obtained. Few of the other species are well represented in gardens and it is here that the search for alternative Snowdrops begins. G. reginae olgae is a valuable addition to the collection and a talking point for the uninitiated with it’s early Winter flowers, usually in October through to December. G elwesii (mistakenly labelled G caucasicus by numerous nurseries) is noteworthy for the broad glaucous leaves and generally larger flowers. G. plicatus has distinctively folded leaf margins and the foliage can be a most attractive whitish grey, the flowers are freely produced the appearance and flowering period extremely variable.

Galanthus woronowii © Jim Almond 2003

G woronowii (pictured left)(mistakenly called G. ikariae latifolius) is another broad leafed species the foliage having a bright glossy green sheen, I find this does well given a little more shade than the preceding species. These species will form a useful introduction and the enthusiast will, with success be tempted to seek out others.

The foliage and habit subtleties of the species become surpassed however, when one considers the huge variability of the cultivars and hybrids. Starting again with G. nivalis, there is no finer variant to my mind than the G. nivalis Sandersii group. Here, the ovary and usual green markings on the inner segments are yellow - it really is a delight. The down side is scarcity in cultivation and a tendency to be a more demanding, it is increasing here in a hot sunny scree (not the obvious place to try an expensive Snowdrop!) If you prefer a more substantial flower, the ‘double’ flowers of G. Lady Elphinstone are marked yellow on the inner segments although you may need to settle plants in for a season or two to savour the true characteristics! One of the most striking of all cultivars is G. plicatus ‘Trym’, where the outer segments are greatly reduced in length, slightly reflexed pagoda style with green markings near to their apex. Once acquired, it is not too difficult as the asking price would suggest and will increase well when happy. A recent selection, G. plicatus ‘Sophie North’, is worth seeking out for it’s erect large flowers held on fairly short stems. Several hybrid cultivars are deemed ‘classic’ and should be in every garden. G. ‘Magnet’ is such a plant having stood the test of time for more than a Century. The charm of the flower is due to the long slender pedicel which causes the flowers to sway and dance on the merest hint of breeze.

Galanthus Straffan © Jim Almond 2001 G. ‘Straffan’ (pictured right) is a hybrid I’ve been singing the praises of for some time now and has been around for a similar period. It has a short stocky habit, flowers quite late in the season, the bulbs reliably throw out a second scape, enhancing the floral display. What’s more it flourishes in pots here making a perfect alpine show plant.
G. ‘S Arnott’ is a more recent introduction (well 50 years ago!) which with the similar G. ‘Brenda Troyle’ will provide cultivars of ease and distinction, even though there will be a certain level of doubt regarding naming and authenticity, the strong honey scent is a welcome bonus.



Galanthus 'Mrs Thompson' © Jim Almond 2001 For lovers of the unusual, G. ‘Mrs Thompson’ (pictured left) takes some beating with it’s unpredictable appearance and habit. The outer segments (three are normal) are sometimes increased to four or five and two flowers may be produced from a single scape! You never know what to expect.

The double G. nivalis ‘Flore Pleno’, often has a coarse ‘scruffy’ flower and there are many fine named clones of undoubted quality. I would pick G. ‘Hippolyta’ as a personal favourite with its neat flowers on short stems.

Snowdrops have probably never been so popular and with the recently published ‘Monograph of Cultivated Galanthus’by Bishop, Davis and Grimshaw will ensure many more devotees will join in the fun. One of the joys of Snowdrops is the thrill of the chase - flick through this book at your peril - you will be spoilt for choice!.

Have fun.....


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