INTRODUCING ....

The AFRO SAMKAL (Original Suya) Restaurant

Enterprise is a word with which many, among the Sierra Leonean community abroad, are becoming familiar in the wake of the poverty and misery heaped upon their relatives and friends back home. For it is true to say that the civil war has grievously undermined the self worth and esteem of many of our citizens.  Virtually every family in Sierra Leone has been touched, and torched, by the burning fires of this conflict. In its wake, it has left behind legions of destitute families and friends who, not unreasonably, look to their relatives and friends overseas for financial and material help to relieve their indescribably desperate states of deprivation. 

We are pleased to note that the culture of individual enterprise is beginning to make nascent manifestations among our expatriate population. We we will report now and again all such attempts by Sierra Leoneans here in the UK, to become successful in running small businesses. We are not talking here about anything on a grand scale but just the efforts of little people trying to fulfil themselves, to become independent and be able to weather the equally daunting challenge of making ends meet in a foreign country. 

Today we present AFRO SAMKAL otherwise known as the Original Suya (Kan Kan Kan), a restaurant-cum-rendez-vous for Sierra Leoneans in South London. 

Proprietors: Mr Paul Kaliso-Sesay ('Ofada') & Ms Melly Parchment ('Sama') 
Location: Unit 21-24, Bargaining Centre, Elm Grove (off Peckam's Rye Lane), London SE15 5BZ 
Menu: Roast goat meat; Barbecued chicken (both spiced with hot chilly pepper and kan kan kan); Rice served with various sauces, including cassava leaf, potato leaves, pepper soup; 
History: set up in 1997 following the break-up of a partnership engaged in a similar business. 

This humble and unostentatious establishment has already made a name for itself since its inception. Its decor is basic but functional. 

The interesting thing about it is that it has been variously described as the base of support for Sierra Leone's rebel groups and the APC. Yet one sees no sign of that! Opposition to Kabbah's government maybe, but then even that becomes untenable when you see Sierra Leoneans of nearly every known persuasion visiting there, notably at weekends.  It is anything but a base of subversion but it clearly offers a platform for vigorous political discussion and argument. It also affords many, a place and a chance to meet and socialise. 

One has visited there almost on a weekly basis (which, to some makes me, too, a rebel supporter I suppose!) and I have found it cosmopolitan and very well patronised by Sierra Leoneans, indigenes from many African and Arab countries, and West Indians. Kaliso's partner, Melly, is herself a Jamaican. 

I have seen die-hard supporters of CDF Kamajohs and the SLPP there, as indeed supporters of political parties like the APC, PDP and avowed protagonists of the AFRC coup. Strangely though, I  have yet to meet an open supporter of the RUF there! The place has also been visited and patronised by visiting MPs and businessmen from Sierra Leone, and of course, as one would expect, spies and informants of the Kabbah government. It is a melting pot of opposing political loyalties. 

The most fascinating event, which occurs fairly regularly, is the intense and always raucous political discussions and arguments. Sometimes these can barely be heard above the loud din of a stereo sound blaster, intrusively placed on the service counter, in fierce competition with a TV monitor with volume at full tone. Now and again, a customer or two walks in quietly, orders their 'cookery' dinner or take-away, and then walks out satisfied. 

But at other times when I have been there, another customer would come in, place his or her order and, as they wait while their fare is prepared, then launch a fierce attack on the political views of the proprietor (who is also the chef) or another customer close by.  An almighty row follows. A barrage of insults is traded, almost approaching the threat of physical violence. But then an instant peace maker arrives on the scene to cool down tempers and there is an uneasy calm followed by a contivrived, possibly genuine, sense of camaraderie. Next minute they are laughing and patting each other on the back and making fun for all else around.  I have noticed that the arguments are sometimes started deliberately by the proprietor or some of his associates. (I have myself occasionally taken part in some of these discussions, but only as moderator!) 

This is currently the only place in London that I know where Sierra Leoneans meet and talk openly, with unrestrained passion, about the situation in their country. While the proprietor quietly owns up to his support for the AFRC - he was on record as arguing for dialogue throughout the crisis - his little hideaway serves as a rendez-vous for many Sierra Leoneans on all sides of the political divide. 

Thus the beauty of Afro SamKal, apart from its simplicity and informality, is that it is providing a service to the community in South London.  Both Kaliso and Melly work extremely hard to please their customers. The restaurant is open till midnight everyday of the week. Through their business, they have generated a steady trade, supplying ethnic meals to the local community. They have, by now, a good and loyal following. Most people come in to meet others and to enjoy the ambience and no-fuss atmosphere. 

I asked Kaliso how he felt about the insults he gets from some of of his difficult customers. "No hard feelings" he told me. "They insult me but they eat my food and pay for it. That's all right by me. I offer them a service which they like. They still come back here. That's what counts in the end." 

Then, he added this afterthought: "But really they are my brothers and sisters...and I love them all!" 



Please click on a thumbnail for a larger picture
 
Sierra Leoneans milling in front of Afro Samkal Proprietors Kaliso and Melly Kaliso in front of his restaurant ...and with two of his customers outiside Melly arrives for work