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The Western Isles

The Western Isles, more popularly known as the Outer Hebrides, are a large group of islands, 13 of which are inhabited with many more uninhabited, located off the north west coast of Scotland. The chain of islands stretches for 130 miles north to south. The main islands in the group are Lewis, Harris, North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist and Barra. The population was 26,500 at the last government Census, the greatest proportion being located on the largest and most northerly island, the Isle of Lewis. With the exception of Stornoway, a small town having a population around 6000, the majority of the population live in small rural villages scattered along the coast. Uniquely for the British Isles a large proportion of the population is bi-lingual, the native language being Gaelic, which is widely used.

 

A Hebridean Sunrise

Access to the Western Isles is difficult and costly from the mainland. There are several sea crossings by vehicle ferries to serve the various islands, all from remote parts of the west coast of Scotland. These crossings take between 2 and 6 hours and can be quite expensive if a vehicle is included. The other means of access to the islands is by air from various cities in Scotland and several daily services exist but again these can be expensive. Inter-island links are by bridge, causeway, ferry and air, the latter two being prone to disruption by the frequently inclement Hebridean weather.

Winter in the Hebrides

Believe it or not, the Isle of Lewis had railways! Various narrow gauge lines were built around the early part of the 20th Century to serve brickworks and waterworks, all now defunct and lifted but some are still in evidence if you look carefully. Lord Leverhulme (of soap and Port Sunlight fame), the one-time owner of the islands, had very ambitious plans to build railways linking various parts of Lewis and Harris. One significant line was started then converted to a roadway. The plans can be viewed in the Stornoway library and it's earthworks are very much in evidence even down to a very obvious railway underbridge in the village of Carloway.

Summer in the Hebrides

The Western Isles have some of the oldest geological rock on the planet and are a unique environment for wildlife. The landscape is as dramatic as it is beautiful. It is one of the last unspoilt landscapes in Britain, but for how long? Big business, along with political objective, is trying to turn the islands into a vast electricity generating station with promises of jobs and wealth to local inhabitants. Perhaps for the privileged few, I suspect. In the meantime, if you want to see a most beautiful, unspoilt wilderness on your doorstep I would urge you to visit the islands whilst the porpoises and whales still move around the coastline, the otters still inhabit the shorelines and the Golden Eagle still soars above, not having to concern himself with giant windmill blades!

Here are a few links:

Western Isles Tourist Board Information, accommodation and links 
CalMac Scottish Island Ferries Car/passenger ferries to all west coast islands and inter-island
John Maclean Photography Some of the best photographs of the Western Isles anywhere
Stornoway Gazette The major newspaper of the Western Isles
Moorland Without Turbines Significant Isle of Lewis windfarm opposition website
 

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