Accidents
happen in the home. We
have government departments to make warning films about them and give us
safety targets to aim at. But home is also where the heart is, which is
in the sea paddling my surfboard into ocean
swell. |
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Accidents
also happen in the home which is where your heart is. One second
upright, standing tall, looking down the wave face, surfboard fins
singing as they grip the water. |
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Mystical
union with ocean energy. Time stands
still. |
Then, the
fall. Time restarts. Real time, measured by lung capacity. Under water,
gripped by the barrelling wave that slams your board against your body
and hammers you into the sea bed, there is no
air. |
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After the initial
dread in this dark and noisy cellar region, time shifts again. One
second is like ten minutes - plenty of time to confront mortality,
waiting for the washing machine effect to end.
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The
washing machine in the kitchen of the house never induces trauma.
Sometimes it leaks all over the floor, but so far it has never
threatened to drown me. |
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