
Hand-Crafted-Rings
Hi. I'm Brian
and welcome to my web page!

I
hope this little lot can answer most of the commonly
asked questions about Diamonds and what it is I do with
them, but if after ploughing through it :-) you have any
questions about my rings etc just Email me at handcrafted.rings@virgin.net
FAQ's .......The 4C's.......Some links......A few golden oldies :-)
My current auctions .....Ebay.....A bit about me
And here are a few items I made a little earlier :-)
(click the picture for a big
version)

handcrafted
handmade hand crafted hand made
A bit about
me
I started making rings via a very devious route
- I started life as a Telephone Engineer! everything from
maintaining the old electromechanical telephone exchanges
to climbing poles to maintaining the latest Digital
Private Exchange equipment. Then BT offered me a largish
sum of money to leave (ie redundancy!) which I took and
became........ an Antiques dealer (?!). Having lost a
considerable amount of my redundancy money learning the
many pitfalls of being an Antiques Dealer (ouch) I found
myself more and more interested in Antique jewellery,
especially rings. It seemed a shame that I saw so many
items broken or damaged, and the cost to repair them was
so high that I decided to have a go myself. Many ruined
items and expensive mistakes later :-) I decided to read
up on what to do and why and how, and with that plus some
training I'd had with BT as an apprentice (believe it or
not) I gradually got the hang of it. Now I'm virtually a
full time jeweller in my own little specialised field of
mostly making Diamond rings, selling about half through
eBay and I'm a lot happier than when I worked for BT!
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Do I do private commissions?
Yes I do, though 95% solitaire Diamond and
Engagement rings I also make wedding rings, pendants,
earings, etc. Email me with an idea and a thumbnail
sketch of your requirements and I'll see what I can do,
or send me a telephone number and a time if you wish and
I'll call you if you prefer to speak to me and check I
really exsist :-)
Please
note though I will generally only use Diamonds and
precious metal that I have sourced myself. a) because in
the past people have sent me 'diamonds' they've bought
elsewhere to be set that were out and out fakes, and then
accused me of 'switching' them! and b) because competeing
with myself is fairly pointless :-)
Do
you Resize your own rings?
Yes
BUT.... I
will happily quote to do this if you so wish but I
always strongly advise people to have it done after
they have actually seen the ring (in the Flesh so to
speak :-) ) and made sure they are happy with it before
it is altered. Then if they really want me to do
it rather than their local jeweller to send it back to me
afterwards. This is because if I customise the ring for
you by resizing it before I send it out to you then you
can't return it if you want to for any reason, under the
Distance Selling Regulations :-( This is because a
resized/altered ring is defined as customised/used goods
This is for your protection by the way, not mine
obviously!
Can I be sure the stone you supply is
real and not a fake ?
Yes. I unconditionally 100%
guarantee that I only ever use genuine mined from the
earth Diamonds and gemstones in my rings. I do not use
CZ, Moissanite, YAG, synthetic or 'lab' created stones
etc
Can I be sure the ring is really made of
Gold or Platinum and not plated?
Yes as all my rings are Assayed
and Hallmarked for the required standard at Birmingham Assay Office and so are absolutely
guaranteed to be the precious metal I say they are.
(No thinly plated base metal or rather suspect and very
untested '14K', '10K' etc marks !)
Whats
this I1, SI2, P3 business?
These are clarity gradings for Diamonds.
Different Laboratories/companies use different systems.
But basically if it has an 'I' or 'P' grading you will be
able to detect a fault or faults in the Diamond with the
Naked eye. In some I1 or P1 grades the fault may well be
difficult to detect and you have to look closely to find
them. I2, I3 (or P2, P3) stones usually have very obvious
faults that can detract badly from the look and stability
of the stone, they frequently look like cracked, dirty
ice! I won't generally use I2's or I3's for solitaires at
all, unless they are exceptional and larger than 2ct. For
more information on the '4C's' which includes the Clarity
scale(s) please see below and the links. The less
inclusions or flaws the rarer more expensive the Diamond,
but remember it takes an experienced eye and special
equipment to detect the difference between top SI, VS and
VVS grades. To the naked eye there may be no difference
when mounted, but the price difference will be very
noticeable!
Whats
the real difference in all these Colour grades?
Diamonds are graded for Colour (or
colourlessness really :-) ) on a scale from D
(colourless) to Z (strongly tinted yellow or brown or a
mixture of them). There are also 'Fancy' coloured
diamonds including Yellow,Green, Blue, Black etc. which
are a whole different ball game!
In practical terms you can usually detect a hint of
colour in a Diamond at around about the 'J-K' grading,
depending on the lighting and your eyesight of course :-)
In a solitaire up to around the 'K' grade it will not be
obvious unless you can directly compare it with another
one of 2 or more colour grades difference. The less
colour the rarer and thus more expensive but bear in mind
it takes a trained eye, equipment and special lighting to
detect the difference between D and F grades. To the
naked eye there is no difference when mounted, but the
price difference can be considerable!
Can
I return it if I don't like it after all?
Yes you can. Refunds are given on items returned
for any reason within 7 working days of receipt,
as long as they are returned in exactly
the same condition as they were sent, including any tags,
certificates, boxes etc. However (due to repeated
abuse :-( ), unless you inform me within 3 days that you
intend to make a return any refund will be less ALL the
selling costs associated with the item, which I will
itemize in detail for you. There is no refund option on
specially commissioned or altered items obviously.
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The '4C's'
of a Diamond. Clarity, Cut, Colour and Carat.
Clarity
grading.
One of the most awkward of
the 4C's to evaluate!
Clarity
grading is rather more art than science, so two people
will often give dissimilar grades to the same stone as it
depends on the number, type, locations and size of
imperfection within the crystal and the size of the stone
too. So, especially around the I1 to SI2/3 grades, it is
important to know where and of what type the flaws are.
On any of my stones just ask and I will do my best to
describe and picture them for you.
The table below gives the Gemological Institute of
America (GIA) Diamond Clarity grades along with some of
the synonomous terms used by other Diamond grading labs.
For example P (pique) = I
(imperfect) in some grading systems, especially European
sytems.
The UK's Birmingham Assay office's grading and valuation
subsiduary "Safeguard" use the GIA system
The European Gemological Laboratory (EGL) who are
actually based in the USA :-) introduced the SI3 grade to
bridge the rather too wide gap between the GIA's SI2 (no
faults to the naked eye) and I1 (fairly obvious fault to
the naked eye) clarity grades. Some other Lab's have also
adopted it.
Please be aware that virtually ALL real Diamonds will
have inclusions and/or flaws, especially if viewed
through a X30 magnification microscope rather than a
standard x10 magnification jewellers loupe! Clarity
definitions are always based first on inspection with the
naked eye, and then under 10 times magnification.
| Symbol |
Meaning |
Definition |
| F |
Flawless |
Free
from all inclusions or blemishes. |
| IF |
Internally
Flawless |
No
inclusions visible at 10 times magnification.
(10X) |
| VVS1 |
Very
Very Slightly Included #1 |
Inclusions
that are extremely difficult to locate at 10x
magnification. |
| VVS2 |
Very
Very Slightly Included #2 |
Inclusions
that are very difficult to locate at 10x
magnification. |
| VS1 |
Very
Slightly Included #1 |
Minor
inclusions that are difficult to locate at 10x
magnification. |
| VS2 |
Very
Slightly Included #2 |
Minor
inclusions that are somewhat difficult to locate
at 10x magnification. |
| SI1
|
Slightly
Included #1 |
Noticeable
inclusions that are easy to locate at 10x
magnification. |
| Sl2 |
Slightly
Included #2 |
Noticeable
inclusions that are very easy to locate at 10x
magnification. Not usually visible to the unaided
eye. |
| Sl3 |
Slightly
Included #3* |
Inclusions
not obvious to the unaided eye unless you know
what to look for and where, but very easy to
locate with a 10x magnification loupe |
| I1
or P1 |
Included/Pique
#1 |
Obvious
inclusion(s). Somewhat easy to locate with the
unaided eye. |
| I2
or P2 |
Included/Pique
#2 |
Obvious
inclusions. Easy to locate with the unaided eye. |
| I3
or P3 |
Included/Pique
#3 |
Very
obvious inclusions. Very easy to locate with the
unaided eye. |
In practical terms for solitaire Diamond rings
around 1carat you don't really want less than a good I1
clarity grade. P2/I2 and P3/I3 grades are very obviously
imperfect and will often looked like cracked, dirty ice.
Good I2's can look OK in earings or studs, and big ones
(ie 2ct plus) can be very impressive in a ring in spite
of the inclusions, which do have the advantage of
instantly proving its a real Diamond too :-)
Diamond
Colour grades.
The G.I.A.
Diamond colour grading scale..........

....................and
the E.G.L. version
(I use this scale when
evaluating uncertified stones.)

Again in practical terms, in a solitaire you can usually
detect a tint of colour in a Diamond at around about the
'K' grade. It will not be obvious or noticeable unless
you directly compare it to a higher graded stone, ie put
it right next to it!
Other
colours include the 'Fancy' colours - Pink, Yellow, Blue,
Green etc which occur naturally and in enhanced form and
the 'Champagne' scale which grades tinted yellow/brown
Diamonds as C1 (light colour) to C7 (dark brownish
yellow).
Diamond
Cut
Usually
'Cut' is synonomous with shape - Round Brilliant,
Princess (square), Emerald etc. but it should refer to
the quality of the process of making the crystals facets.
Otherwise known as the 'Make', it is critical to the
amount of light reflected and refracted by a crystal. Too
deep or too shallow and the Diamond allows a lot of light
to escape from the sides or base of the stone resulting
in a darker appearance. The difference between an 'Ideal'
cut and a 'Poor' cut is fairly dramatic, but the price
can be too! A lot of 1ct stones are cut so as to make
that weight, resulting in too deep a cut as the price
difference between a 1ct and 0.8ct, even if when the
diameter and all other factors are identical is
considerable.
Diamond
Carat
Carat is
simply a measure of the weight of a gemstone. 1ct is
equal to 0.2 grams. It is also shown as a decimal eg half
a carat = 0.5ct or is given in 'points', 100 points = 1
carat, so 50 points = half a carat and so on.
It is important to note that the weight is not
the same as the size of the stone. A one carat Round
Brilliant Diamond could be anywhere between 6mm (too
deep) and 7mm (too shallow) in diameter. so a badly cut 1ct could have exactly the same
diameter as a 0.8ct, but the 0.8ct could look brilliant
and the 1ct dead depending on the cut.
Please also follow this link
to the E.G.L.'s consumer guide for more information on
the 4C's
and this one to eBay's own guide to the 4C's of
Diamond
Or this one to see the creation of a solitaire
ring in my workshop
Or to see a few I made earlier (just like Blue
Peter :-) ) click here
Go to my eBay Auctions (Please :-)
Highly rated ebay shops
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