Tale of 3 Ac's.

To the Carmargue - but how and how back?

After the Bonnieux trip we were clear that we wanted to look some more at the land of the Carmargue. We decided to go in the summer and take a chance on the heat.

Looking at the map of France, the route seems self-evident. Calais, Paris, Bourges, Clermont-Ferrand, Millau and Lodeve. Mostly paying to use the Auto-Route and stopping at Bourges, Blot l'Eglise, Chanac, and Gignac.

After the usual sleep-over at Calais, leaving at about 10:00 we drove down to the Paris peripherique. Adrenaline levels set on high we entered after the Citroen factory and followed the signs for Bordeaux. Staying in the second lane from the right, we searched for our exit signposted 'Porte d'Orleans'. A few miles further south - being careful to take the fork towards Lyons - we were able to relax and continue to Bourges which was just about as far as we cared to drive in a day. The municipal campsite at Bourges is used as a transit site although the Cathedral, which is Gothic but markedly different, is well worth a visit. Bourges itself is an ancient site; the river having been supplemented by a canal and an irrigation system in ancient times. The old City is well preserved and worthy of exploration.

You will need a decent map to locate Blot L'Eglise. North-west of Clermont Ferrand, to the west of the old main road and north of Chatelguyon. A tiny village whose Municipal site is adjacent to a football pitch and a superb tennis court with a climbing wall. It is very cheap; there was no working public telephone and we bought bread by the kilo. But the storms! You are actually quite high up and there are some very deep valleys nearby. In the evenings the summer storms arrive from the south-west and follow the valleys. You sit - perfectly dry with a glass of red - and watch the most spectacular lightning shows without having to strain your neck, as they travel towards the nort-east.

Chanac is a sleepy litle village to the east of the Autoroute on the road to Mende. The shady Municipal site is adjacent to a swimming pool and some neat little holiday lodges within easy strolling distance of the shops. The Boulangerie is superb. From here we went out into the north-east hills - past Mende - to watch French stock-car racing. (Demolition derby.) We also toured south, over the hills to the Gorges du Tarn in the south and enjoyed the Aven Armand cave. This huge underground space is populated with amazing 20ft high stalagmites. In French caves, if they allow cameras, take your shots asap because they rapidly change the lighting effects.)

From Chanac to Gagnac via Millau is one of those journeys which is just worth doing. The run down from the plateau along the side of the hill to Severac in the sun-shine is beautiful. From Mende the route south, back onto the top, is even more spectacular but looking through the rear window. (Actually, it is best viewed driving north, when you would be on the other - mountain edge - carriageway. Get your camera ready at the beginning of the descent!)

Gignac is a pleasant little town whose market is well attended. The Municipal campsite is modern, close to the River Herault, well laid out and hosts musical entertainment mid-week. From here it is an easy run into the Carmargue to see wild flamingoes feeding and the occasional group of white horses. Aigues Mortes is a walled city once on the edge of the Mediterranean. Its buildings and main square are worth a visit. We ate at Le Paradis in a side street. Better value for well-prepared local dishes. (The Sea Bass was very good!)

A few kilometres to the north of Gignac is the bridge where the Herault seems to emerge from a fissure in the rock mountains. A very popular place for swimming, canoeing and bronzing. There is a road (D4) alongside the river, well worth a look - as is the Abbey and village of St Guilhem le Desert.

To be honest, we did find it a bit warm here, so we departed and via Millau, Severac, Aurillac, Brive and Perigeux - with a stop-over in the Auvergne - we arrived at Jonsac, south of Cognac. This is a small river's edge campsite in an ancient spa and market town. The site is very popular with the French. From here the exotic bronzing beaches of the Royan and the Atlantic are easy trips as is the Gironde estuary.

We returned to the north coast using the Route Nationale's by way of Saumur and Le Mans, staying near Fecamp. Then, driving along the coast, past empty beaches, we paused at Dieppe. It seems a much sadder place now, since the ferries stopped using the port. The large ships replaced by the marina craft and the occasional SeaCat.

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