How to build a robot
by Mat Irvine

Do Not Start to Build before being given permission by TV21

Phone 0891 555 300 for more information.

These notes are designed to help all participants in Robot Wars and should be read in conjunction with the Official Rules and Guidelines, our Useful Suppliers List and other literature relating to the programme format.

Although Robot Wars originated in America, the first televised series was broadcast here in the UK. The sport is constantly evolving and the TV version has now gathered its own momentum with many more teams designing and building robots on this side of the Atlantic than in America. Consequently there has been some re-appraisal of Robot Wars - particularly in the context of televised competitions. However the rules and guidelines governing Robot Wars in Europe are, wherever possible, consistent with those in America. Clearly it is important that robots are designed and constructed within internationally recognised regulations, given that future competitions, programmes and events may involve robots from all over the world.

Much of what follows is purely advice - this is a subject where individuality, initiative and invention are extremely important and the organisers of Robot Wars do not want to stifle creativity. However some areas, particularly those to do with safety (which are governed by the HSE - Health and Safety Executive) as well as regulations relevant to recording television programmes, have to be considered and adhered to when it comes to the design, construction and operation of robots.

Robot Wars is an ideal event for teamwork. Individual entrants are in no way precluded, but the organisers wish to encourage teams - families, friends, schools, colleges, workplaces - where individuals can combine their particular creativity with others. Your team may include someone who excels at design, someone else who is a mechanical genius, another who specialises in electronics - and don't forget a good driver is essential for success in Robot Wars.

Please note that there are no restrictions as to how many people can be involved with the design and construction of your robot. However because of production practicalities only three crew - a driver and two others - will be allowed to actually run their robot during the recording of the television series and consequently occupy the Pit Area. Other members of the team are of course certainly welcome to attend and will be give prime spots in the audience - so bring your own cheerleaders!

FIRST THING'S FIRST

Designing and building a robot is no easy task. First of all, please put careful thought into exactly what type of robot you want to create. You will have to consider the weight of your robot, the type of drive mechanism, bodywork and how your robot will perform in the eliminating rounds before attacking and defending itself in the final arena. This last consideration is the most important. You should also remember that the televised version of Robot Wars involves various games and challenges as well as outright combat. With this in mind, you may also have to compromise the design of your robot. For example, you may choose to sacrifice ground clearance so that you can climb a ramp or you may opt for speed and maneuverability over strength and power.

Ultimately Robot Wars is all about spectacle and showmanship. Robots that have been carefully thought through will hopefully come out well in combat, as well as catching the eye of the judges - when it comes to awards for design, originality and engineering - and will most certainly win the audience over!

Some robots avoid weapons preferring to use their bulk along with a sophisticated drive to push - or batter - opponents into submission. Robots designed using this approach - such as the reigning British Champion Roadblock and the former American Heavyweight Champion La Machine - are often referred to as 'wedges' because of their shape. Despite one or two exceptions however, such robots are rarely associated with sparks, flying debris and outright destruction - and most people, in particular the five million people watching at home, want violence!

With this in mind the organisers of Robot Wars,
whilst not wishing to ban any specific type of design, would like to discourage passive 'wedge' designs and encourage as much weaponry as possible.
Rotating weapons, in the form of circular cutting discs and chain saws are always popular, the hammer approach is a route taken by many and lifting devices are also gaining ground. Biohazard defeated La Machine during the American Robot Wars 1996 Finals with a policy of lift and tip', but was itself almost beaten by Vlad the Impaler who had a similar lifting device fitted!

Moving features of any sort will make your robot stand out, even if the device itself is not for any practical function. Sacrificial additions to your design - which will not effect your robot's performance if they are destroyed in battle - may confuse your opponent. You can use lighting, lasers and basic stage pyrotechnics for effect, providing such features do not contravene the 'Rule and Guidelines' governing Robot Wars. And if the overall design of your robot follows a theme - and is given a suitable name and personality to match - all the better.

Although most robots are designed to operate at ground level using wheels or tracks, there are two other options worth considering.

I) Flying robots are allowed. Aerofoil designs (i.e.. helicopters) have to be banned for safety reasons, but this leaves robots designed around the principle of a hovercraft or even floating robots which utilise balloons. There has been at least one 'balloon' robot in a previous American Robot Wars event and although they're not the most practical of designs - control is very difficult - they're certainly going to get noticed!

2) Walking robots - or 'walkers' - are feasible and are allowed in Robot Wars. If entered they can take advantage of an increased weight allowance - up to 3001bs. Admittedly such designs aren't necessarily suited to combat, but they are extremely impressive visually and often conform to the public's expectations of what a robot should look like. With this in mind, and given that the organisers wish to encourage as much ingenuity and invention as possible, it is hoped that some teams rise to the challenge of creating a walker.

IMPORTANT: Nothing in the follow information should be taken as definitive and no responsibility can be accepted by the ROBOT WARS Organisers for experimentation by teams or individuals.

WEIGHT CLASSIFICATIONS

As detailed in the 'Rules and Guidelines', there are four classes of robot determined by weight. It is worth emphasising that in the majority of cases, the TV programme will feature only Heavyweight robots. Furthermore, there is also the possibility of a Super Heavyweight division in the future and such robots may also be featured in the TV series. Details of other weight classes are included here for your interest given that future events may well include a wider range of robots.

Featherweight: up to 25 lbs (metric equivalent up to 11.4 kg)
Lightweight: Over 251bs up to 501bs (over 11.4 kg - 22.7 kg)
Middleweight: Over 501bs - 1001bs (over 22.7 kg - 45.4 kg)
Heavyweight: Over 1001bs - maximum 1751bs (over 45.4 kg - 79.4 kg)

There are no restrictions on the size of your robot, though the recommendation is that it does not exceed length and width of 50" x 30" (127cm x 76cm). There is no maximum recommendation for height though practicalities will dictate that stability may be compromised if your robot it too tall. A maximum voltage for electric motors of 30 volts DC (50 volts AC) is also specified in the 'Rules and Guidelines' along with many other details which you should read before starting construction.

Although the weight classes detailed above tend to dictate the complexity of your robot and possibly the experience of the roboteer, this need not be as cut and dried as may first appear.

Featherweight
This classification is ideal for those just starting the sport, with perhaps a limited knowledge of mechanics and construction. Many such robots are based around commercially available radio controlled model car chassis as manufactured by Tamiya, Koyosho and others. These are easily available, relatively cheap and are manufactured in a wide range of specifications - two-wheel drive, four-wheel drive, four-wheel steering, small tyres, large tyres and a wide range of motors. Some chassis even use internal combustion engines (glow or diesel) for added power. However be aware that the radio control frequencies used by some of the cheapest and simplest car kits are 27Mhz AM. This frequency band is no longer allowed because of its susceptibility to interference. However it is often possible to change these AM frequencies to 27 Mhz FM or - preferably - 40Mhz.

The chassis can be used 'as is' with the advantage that the positions for batteries and receiver are already built in. Alternatively the drive can be fitted to a chassis of your own design and manufacture. This can allow for extra batteries if necessary, although check that the chassis you choose will carry the extra weight at the sort of speed you expect.

It is not advisable to use the existing bodywork from these kits as they are not really suitable for the battering they are likely to receive - and nor will they impress judges and the crowd in terms of ingenuity and design. Such commercially available chassis often work well with a smooth 'tortoise-shell' body protecting them...or how about coming up with a totally individual design of your own?

It is also perfectly possible to build a robot from scratch which still weighs in as a Featherweight. For example WYSIWYG - the only all-British entry in the 1996 US Robot Wars Final - and subsequently an entry in the British TV show - was built as a classic 'wedge' design constructed from MDF (Medium Density Fibreboard - ie. wood) with radio control car drive and multiple Ni-Cad batteries for power - all under 251bs (11.4 kg)!

Lightweight
Lightweights build on Featherweight technology. However the extra weight allowance allows for more of a mix of commercial RC components with more recognisable Robot Wars features. The weight limit could mean an all-metal body, larger motors, bigger batteries and some weaponry. However you should find that components - such as wheels designed for RC cars - will work perfectly well even in this heavier weight category. Time for experimentation.. Lightweights need not be restricted in their weaponry - some have been fitted with small IC-powered chain saws all within the weight limit.

If you are experienced with building model RC cars, or fancy tackling something a little more substantial than a Featherweight, this could be the class for you.

Middleweight
Most commercially available RC components are not really suitable for this category, as the extra weight means extra strain on components. However it could be worth exploring some drive components that are intended for IC RC race cars as they could be strong enough. However remember the maxim - "If in doubt double the strength... then it may be strong enough just"'

In the past, the Middleweight category has been ideal for builders to show off their engineering skills. The increased weight allows for the inclusion of sophisticated ideas, a mix of weapons, good turn of speed and an interesting design. If you are half-way competent with the heavy end of modeling or are a competent engineer, the Middleweight category could be a good starting point for your entry into Robot Wars...

Heavyweight
...however, most of the televised action will feature Heavyweight robots. This weight category is for the really dedicated enthusiast and will really put your skills in engineering, electronics, design and driving to the test. Heavyweights by their very nature are going to test man and machine completely - 175 Ibs of pure weight hitting an opponent is going to produce a fair old thump!

However if you want to be at the cutting edge of Robot Wars and you're comfortable working with large motors, solid chassis and sophisticated weaponry, then the Heavyweight category could be for you.

Although the range of robots, their design, construction and on-board equipment is going to vary enormously, all can be split into two basic sections and it's worth giving thought to each of these separately.

THE CHASSIS

The chassis of your robot includes the drive, power supply, steering and radio control equipment, and will form the core of your robot. It is also likely to be the main weight of the robot and so will give the whole structure stability. Stability is very important as many robots are designed to flip their opponents over, or at least lift them off the ground. Design of the chassis will also determine the speed and maneuverability of your robot. Centre-mounted drives, each driven by an individual motor, tend to be more maneuverable (they have the ability to turn on a sixpence, to coin a phrase!) Remember to consider the more traditional chassis layouts as well, e.g.. a car or go-kart which have wheels at each comer - this will give your robot more stability therefore making it harder to flip over.

The Drive

Electric Motors: Electric motors are very popular with builders as they are easy to obtain and come in various sizes and degrees of power. They can be controlled easily via an electronic RC speed controller and require a minimal amount of maintenance. Most of these will be DC (Direct Current) motors as they are powered straight from a battery. An AC (Alternating Current) motor can be used, but has the added hassle of generating the AC in the first place - this can be done in one of two ways:

a) Using an inverter from a battery (though the power generated in not that great), or
b) Generating AC from an alternator driven from another source (e.g.. a car alternator)

However powering a DC motor from a battery to drive an alternator to generate AC current to drive an AC motor - is not the quickest and most effective method to use. Driving the alternator from a small IC engine is viable, however this system is really for the dedicated and its overall advantages have yet to be proven!

NOTE: There is an upper voltage limit of 30 volts DC (and should you go the AC route, it is 50 volts). However practicalities dictate that you will probably use 6, 12 or 24 volts. It is possible to 'over-run' a motor - running a 6 volt motor on 12 volts for example, which will give extra power, but will shorten the life of the motor. Alternatively, batteries can be arranged so that, for example, a 12 volt motor normally runs on 12 volts, but for that extra boost of power the circuits are switched (via RC) to give 24 volts for a short period. A simple example is to have two 12 volts/6 amp batteries normally wired in parallel, which will give 12 volts at 12 amps. By switching to a series connection, this provides 24 volts at 6 amps. La Machine fis famous for its 'turbo boost' using a similar method.

Batteries: These are likely to be the biggest single outlay in cost. Really there are only two practical types of batteries that are easily an available, though both types can be expensive.

Ni-Cads (Nickel-Cadmium) - these are rechargeable batteries and can be used as replacements for nonrechargeable AA, C. D type batteries. Each Ni-Cad 'cell' is standardised at 1.2 volts, but can be connected in series for higher Voltages. Usually they come ready packed in specific voltages. The advantage of Ni-Cads is that they can be fast charged, however, they are not really suitable for powering large motors

Sealed Lead Acid 'Gel' - these are similar to car batteries in their construction, but the electrolyte is a gel rather than a liquid. They are also totally sealed and can be used upside-down if necessary. The advantage of these batteries is that they can be charged on 'stand by' for a long period of time and can also stand a large current drain. However they cannot be fast charged and the largest ones can take over a day (24 hours) to charge up from flat, therefore spares are essential during recording. There are 'fast charging' (or 'faster' charging) methods coming onto the market, though their availability and cost have yet to be assessed.

PLEASE NOTE THE FOLLOWING...

a) Standard car-type liquid electrolyte batteries are not allowed - even the supposed 'sealed for life' batteries are not fully sealed and if damaged will leak liquid sulphuric acid!

b) Both of the above types of battery have a low voltage, so there is no danger of electrocution. However, they can contain a considerable amount of power and if short circuited they can heat up rapidly and either cause a fire or explode. Consequently all circuits must be adequately protected by thermal circuit breakers and all connections, whether from battery to equipment or between cells of a battery, must be properly insulated.

c) Whichever battery source you decide upon, you will probably need a minimum of three sets.

Internal Combustion (IC) Engines
A number of robots use an IC engine as it is more powerful. These can be obtained from go-karts, lawnmowers, small motorcycles or even the larger varieties intended for RC model aircraft, racing cars or boats. Three types of fuel can be used - petrol, diesel or glow. If you go this route, four-stroke engines are recommended over two-stroke as they have more power per cc, create slightly less noise and are cleaner given that don't mix oil with the fuel. NB. Glow fueled engines are two-stroke by default.

NOTE: The 'Rules and Guidelines' do not allow more than 8 fl.oz. (227 millilitres) of fuel or 6 minutes running time (whichever is the lesser) for IC engines - so very large cc engines are out. Please also note that IC engines take longer to start and generally require more maintenance than electric motors.

Hydraulic Motors
Hydraulic motors produce a lot of power, almost instantaneously which can also be used for steering and operating weaponry. However the hydraulic pump has to be powered. Many existing robots with hydraulics use IC engines to power their pumps. An alternative could be to use an electric motor. However this route is really only for the specialists as correct British Safety S fittings have to be used for pipes and connectors as fluid under pressure is involved, plus there is an upper pressure limit. (See Rules and Guidelines)

MULTI-SOURCE POWER
It is perfectly acceptable to use a mix of power sources, e.g.. hydraulics powered by an IC engine and many robots use electric motors for the drive and IC for weaponry.

TRANSMISSIONS
Steering - gearboxes - drive-belts - suspension - wheels...

STEERING
Steering can either be a mechanism that controls front, back or even both sets of wheels as with a car, or uses independent drives on each side as with a tank.

'Car-type' steering, particularly on Middle and Heavyweight robots, will be subjected to a great deal of strain. so it s worth examining the mechanisms and materials used very closely. Your robot will be changing direction constantly so the amount of wear and tear on steering components will be considerable. Radio controlled steering actuators will also need some form of 'saver' as impact along the steering mechanism could be transmitted directly to the actuator gears and wreck the actuator itself.

'Tank-type' steering can work either with actual tracks or, more usually, with a central wheel each side and free-rotating castors providing stability, front and back. Each wheel or track has its own drive which could take two forms. Either a single motor is used and the drive to each side is through individual transmissions. To turn the robot one wheel is either braked or disengaged like a tank. A more usual, and in many ways more effective route, is to have each wheel (or track) driven by its own individually controlled motor. Clearly with both motors operating forward - the robot goes forward, both operating back - the robot goes back. And with one forward, one back, the robot turns very fast - and if you keep going, spins on the spot.

Gear-boxes / Drive Belts
Whatever your power source this will have to be transmitted to the driving wheels. It may be a direct drive - some electric motors are powerful enough to do this, and hydraulic motors are 'direct' by default. Most however will go through some form of transmission. A simple gear reduction may be sufficient, or via steel-reinforced belts and suitable pulleys. It is always advisable to go for the largest and strongest gears or belts feasible as these are invariably weak points in any drive-chain. Especially weak points are where gears or pulley wheels fix to shafts. Relying on a push fit or a just grub screw is rarely sufficient. The shaft needs to be threaded, have a built-in flat or a hole for a split pin.

Actual selection gearboxes are really not recommended as you will probably never have time to change gear - and there's more to go wrong. However many IC powered set-ups, such as lawnmowers, have automatic clutches and/or variable gearboxes as part of the mechanism, so it would seem logical to try and adapt these. An IC motor is anyway going to have to have some form of clutch as otherwise your robot will not be able to stay stationary!

Suspension
It could be worth looking at some form of suspension - however crude - as the amount of bashing your robot is likely to give - or receive - will put a great strain on the mechanisms. Suspension can also help ensure the power stays to the ground and might help prevent wheelspin.

Wheels
These are your sole point of contact with the floor (assuming you have not been tipped over!) so think about this aspect of the drive carefully. There are really only two options - wheels and tracks.

Tracks can be used reasonably successfully, but are likely to be slower and possibly prone to damage and maintenance.

Wheels can be solid, though experience over the years has shown that some form of tyre is preferable, giving more grip and partial suspension to soak up bumps. However tyres, especially large pneumatic ones, could be vulnerable to damage - especially if your opponent has steel spikes or a circular saw! Consequently drive wheels are usually hidden under the main body, though some robots have made a feature of their exposed wheels and, to a certain extent, use them as 'weaponry', e.g.. Red Scorpion and The Master. Solid rubber tyres are obviously less prone to damage, though pneumatic tyres could be filled with a foam 'emergency repair kit' which may render the tyre impossible to repair at a later stage although this is probably not a major consideration with a robot. Also pay attention to the way in which tyres are attached to the wheels as high torque can cause the wheel to spin inside the tyre.

Some robots use a ferm of braking on the wheels, which allows them more purchase when engaging an opponent. This may also prevent an opponent pushing you out of the arena. However they are probably only really worth considering for the heavier robots and only then if you have someone in the team competent to deal with the mechanisms involved.

RADI0 CONTROL
The minimum number of channels required is going to be two - drive and steering. However if you have any working features extra channels are required, and sets with up to four channels are reasonably cheap. The drive and steering channels really need to be of the proportional type, which allows for gradual change in speed or steering position and most sets, even the cheapest, will supply at least who basic proportional channels. Very old sets that are just 'off or 'on' are usable at a pinch, but not recommended and anyway they will most likely fall foul of the frequency regulations - see below.

Frequencies
In the UK the Home Office allocates four frequency bands for amateur radio control. These are: 27Mhz; 35Mhz; 40Mhz and 459Mhz. Of these 35Mhz is restricted to flying models only, so will not be allowed. unless you build a flying robot - but even here check with the organisers first. Currently it has been decided to keep the House Robots separate on 459Mhz, leaving 27Mhz and 40Mhz. However, experience has shown that 27Mhz does have interference problems - CB radio also uses this band - and so has been prohibited.
27Mhz may be allowed for Lightweight and Featherweight robots, but check with the organisers first. In the event that you are given permission to use 27Mhz, you must use an FM set - AM sets are prone to far too much interference.

NOTE: Whichever frequency you end up using, when participating in Robot Wars you will have to surrender your transmitter to 'Transmitter Control'. No exceptions! Safety is paramount. And clearly if two robots - with or without flailing weapons - are run on the same frequency in close proximity, there could be a serious accident.

Please also note that as only a certain number of radio control frequencies are available, the Robot Wars organisers reserve the right to allocate particular frequencies within your band for the actual televised contest. Because physical packaging can vary between manufactures, plus other oddities such as dual conversion receivers, it is impractical for 'Transmitter Control' to have duplicates for everyone. Therefore you will be required to have at least two sets of crystals for each radio set-up you will be using, and ideally more than two sets.

Robots which require two frequencies for operation - e.g.. one transmitter for drive, one for weapons - are allowed, although please let the organisers know if it is your intention to use multiple transmitters.

Receivers
These should be positioned as far away as practical from electric motors or the spark plugs of IC engines. It will almost certainly be necessary to fit suppression to motors and/or ignition systems, and it may also be necessary to case the receiver.

Never cut the aerial supplied with receivers - its designed to be the length it is. However it does not necessarily have to be stretched out like a washing line - it will still work wound up and taped up inside the body. But remember that all-metal bodied robots could act as a Faraday Cage and stop signals getting in, full experimentation is vital here. An external aerial maybe the only option, but remember it could be vulnerable and its fair game for an opponent to try and cut it off. Consequently position it in the most out of the-way spot and maybe add some form of protection (e.g.. clear polythene tubing).

Speed Control
Electric motors will work most efficiently using electronic speed controllers as against switched 'stepped' controllers (e.g.. slow, medium, fast) - especially for the heavier classes. These controllers invariably take the greatest brunt of the current flowing and experience has shown that this component is usually the first to fail.

Although existing readily available speed controllers may list wonderful 'peak' ratings of several hundred amps, these are invariably only applicable if the electronics are running at low temperatures (which they rarely are). When the motors stall - as they do when you bash into an opponent - the current rises dramatically. Furthermore, when motors reverse as suddenly as they can in Robot Wars, currents can peak (or 'spike') at over 1,000 amps! This may be only for 1/20th second, but it's enough to blow the components.

Much exploration and experimentation has been done on speed controllers before, during and since the first Robot Wars TV series. Experience has shown that of existing off-the-shelf components, wheel-chair technology has proved itself to be strong enough to survive combat situations - usually! However, some adaptation might be necessary before it is suitable for Robot Wars. There are alternatives coming on line and the most recent findings, advice and suppliers can be found in the 'Useful Suppliers List'.

Fail Safe
It is very likely that an electronic fail safe will be required on all circuits that operate weaponry - rotating or otherwise. These fail safes prevent any operation of a radio control switch or servo - and hence the operation of the weapon - should the signal from the transmitter either fail or somehow get degraded. It may also be a requirement that a similar system will be required on the drive of a robot - particularly for the heavier classes.

NOTE: it is advisable to have as many spare parts as practical - electrical and mechanical - for your robot. Remember the maxim - "If it can fail it will, and even if it can't possibly fail - it still will... "

THE BODY

If the chassis is taking the main brunt of the mechanical donkey-work, it is the bodywork that shows off your flare for design and ingenuity - before taking the main brunt of your opponents wrath!

Attachment
This is basic common sense, but ensure the bodywork is firmly attached to the chassis! But also that you have adequate - and quick - access to all internal components. You don't want a major dismantling job just to change the batteries and remember the receiver must be easily accessible if the crystals need to be changed.

Materials
Most common materials for the body are metal, wood or some plastic composite, all of which will be dictated by your class, design and method of attack/defence. Although metal may logically seem like the best idea, and has many advantages, wood has many things going for it - it can be more resilient to 'bashes' and could in some cases jam an opponents saw if they try to cut through. Fibreglass or similar plastic composites can be formed into interesting shapes, but even the toughest reinforced plastic may not necessarily stand up to a circular saw. However this could hinge on whether the saw can get a grip anywhere, so a sloping surface, even of relatively lightweight materials, could see off even the most determined saw blade. But please note, none of this is gospel - each design will work in its own way.

Weaponry
Robot Wars is ultimately all about combat. Robots with ingenious weaponry will be more likely to win their bouts as well as impressing the judges, gaining crowd approval and entertaining 5 million viewers at home! Some types of weapons have to be banned - flames, liquids, high voltage disrupters and nontethered projectiles for example (see 'Rules and Guidelines' for more details). However this still leaves a lot of room for ingenuity. Weapons can rotate - circular saws, cutting discs, strimmers and the ever popular chain saw. Weapons can hit and bash - hammers, mallets, blades and flails. Weapons can ram and stab - with spikes and . Devices can be made to operate pincers to grab and immobilise opponents, or a lifting device can slide under the opposition and either tip them over or just lift their wheels off the ground. Better still, why not come up with a brand new method of attack!

Interchangeable Parts
Interchangeable body components and weapons are allowed, although - needless to say - not during an actual bout! Any changes to a robot must be completed within a set period of time, (see 'Rules and Guidelines'). Please note that this rule cannot be abused - in other words you can't enter two different robots. The basic chassis and bodywork must remain as a running entity. However, you can choose to use different weapons or features depending on the nature of a game or challenge. For example, if your robot is selected to play Robotic Soccer, you could add some form of scoop to the bodywork!

Experimentation
Robot Wars is all about ingenuity, combining traditional skills and crafts with the latest in technology. If you have some device that you'd like to feature on your robot don't hesitate. If you want to carry an onboard camera (as with Formula I) this might be accommodated. If you wish to use your own camera and transmitter, contact the organisers first as there are some restrictions on TV frequencies and licensing. Some robots may be fitted with cameras supplied by the organisers. If you'd like to be considered for this. please contact the organisers for the dimensions of the camera unit and mounting.

Finish
Don't be afraid to go to town with the overall 'look' of your robot. Designs that catch everyone's eye audience, judges or viewers - will be far more entertaining than a box on wheels. Scenes in the pits are just as much a part of Robot Wars as action in the arena. Pre-match interviews, robot profiles and televised action from the pits will probably concentrate on the best looking robots - "This is an interesting design, just why have you painted it pink with purple spots and used twenty eight wheels. . . ? "

THE PROGRAMME AND THE PITS!
During the recording of Robot Wars competitors will be based in the Pits Area next to the arena. Here the organisers will supply tables, lighting, power (mains at 240 Volts AC) and a testing area, but the rest is your responsibility. Chargers, spares, tools will all have to be brought with you. The majority of maintenance and repairs will have to be achieved in your allocated Pits Area. However some aspects especially welding, grinding, sanding, spray painting etc. - will have to be done in a specific areas, safely away from people milling around. So if your robot is at the heavier end of the categories you may consider some trolley could be useful for transport. Although you will be expected to bring everything you require with you it is acknowledged that things do go wrong, things get forgotten, things get broken. Consequently a certain amount of help will be available during studio days. But do not relay on this - it is purely an emergency measure!

SOURCING MATERIALS
Part of the whole idea of Robot Wars is to test the ingenuity and invention of the contestants. Consequently there is little point in saying "You must use Motor A, with Battery B" - you should choose your own sources and root out some that no-one else has thought of. Much may already be available to you. Time to search out all that junk you dumped in the attic, garage, shed and anywhere else just in case you had a need for it - now you might just! Experience with the first Robot Wars TV series showed that competitors were extremely ingenious when it came to sourcing materials. However for some up-to-date pointers see the separate Useful Suppliers List'.

AND FINALLY...
Whichever weight classification you have chosen, and whatever the design of your robot, one factor is very important - make sure you can drive the beast. Although radio control may seem easy, you can't have too much practice. Even if your robot itself is not completed, get whoever is going to be doing the driving to practice with a commercial radio controlled car beforehand. Techniques - including the somewhat obvious one that if you driving towards yourself, everything is reversed - need to become automatic. You don't have a chance to think "Ah, its coming towards me, that means I push the stick to the right, Instead of the left... " if you have to, you will have already crashed!

Always remember that Robot Wars is a fun sport. We intend to enjoy ourselves and not take things too seriously - and we hope you will too. Although making television programmes does have its own idiosyncrasies, and you may frequently wonder what on earth is going on, remember you are an important cog in the whole wheel and we would have no show without your participation, support and co-operation. Thank you!