CD2000
ABC of Laces (2)
Carrickmacross
Carrickmacross is an appliquéd lace which
started about 1820, and takes its name from the town situated in
the Republic of Ireland. Muslin and machine-made net are laid
over the design drawn on a backing cloth and a thread is couched
around the design. The cutting away of excess muslin leaves open
areas that can be filled with needlerun stitches. The
late 1840s saw a guipure style introduced where the net was cut
away completely in parts. The design was couched as before but
buttonhole stitch bars were used to link the motifs
together. Both types of the lace had borders of
picots.
There have been revivals and declines in
Carrickmacross over the years, but it is presently a very
popular form of lacemaking. Colour and 3-dimensional
designs have been recently introduced.
Charted Bobbin Lace
Filet laces were first fashionable in the 16th
century. Lacis was a hand-knotted net, the
solid design elements formed later by darning on to the net with
a needle. Buratto differed from lacis in that the
foundation net was a woven mesh; coloured silks were often used
to embroider the designs, which were sometimes outlined by a
coarse thread, on to the mesh. Filet Guipure was popular
in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, following its
development in 1869 by Madame Goubard. The main design
features were worked in the lacis technique, but the net
background was most often decorated with needle-made stitches,
leaves and stars.
There are examples of various
bobbin-made filet laces, but the great majority of bobbin laces
have a diagonal, not a square-meshed net ground. Charted
Bobbin Lace is the latest stage in the development of bobbin
filet lace, the design elements being formed by working woven
blocks and/or by the addition of beads as the net ground
progresses.
Cluny
Lace
Cluny Lace is a continuous lace which originated
in France. Its designs were based on 16th century Genoese
laces that were to be found in the Museum of Antiquities at the
Hotel Cluny, Paris, hence its name. It is a geometric
plaited lace which in the past was mostly used for furnishings
eg tablecloths and curtains.
It differed from the
Beds-Maltese, Maltese and Genoese laces in that it had a 6-pin
border instead of a 9-pin and a distinctive twisted footside. It
also has several characteristic techniques that differ from
English Bedfordshire, notably in the way that the pairs
enter and leave the undulated and divided trails and in the
method used for crossing plaits.
The modern centre for
Cluny lace is now at Le Puy where there is now a thriving lace
school, museum and shop.
ABC(1) — Bedfordshire, Braid,
Carrickmackenzie
ABC(3) —
Crochet, Flanders, Honiton
CD2000 — homepage