Whether you've kept birds for half a century, or you're thinking of buying one tomorrow, read on!  If you've had birds for years you can nod sagely, or shake your head at my views, but read it all the same, you never know you might find something beneficial.  If you've never kept birds, or are just starting out then this piece is for you!

Over the past few years I've visited many bird rooms and spoken to many breeders.  I was shocked to find out just how many of these so called "Experts" were either ignorant of, or chose not to bother catering for the basic requirements of the birds they profess to love so much.  Keeping budgies need not be overly time consuming, but attention to the finer details is important!  Start off on the right foot and you'll be good for life.

The following are a list of essentials that should be present in every cage and aviary...

Eventually I will attach relevant links to sites that give a more in depth account on these points for those who would like to know more.

Good Quality Seed

When purchasing seed, price (although relevant) should only be a secondary concern.  Some of the cheaper seeds are of a relatively good quality whilst some of the top priced seeds are grossly over rated.  You should look at the seed itself...

1. Is it dusty?
2. Are there bits of something that shouldn't be in there?
3. Is there a reasonable variety of seed in the mix?

Dust and other foreign bodies usually represents either low quality and should be avoided.  If you think its a case of bad storage, speak with the dealer, if you're not happy that it has been a genuine oversight, FIND ANOTHER DEALER!

If you're still unsure about your seed and its supplier follow this link for a rather easy but effective means of checking the quality of your seed     Seed Test

Is variety important?    Yes! the reasons for this being...

1. Different seeds come from different parts of the world.  Plants absorb minerals from the ground that they're grown in, therefore, a variety of seed offers a greater variety of mineral content.
2. The psychological aspect.  To explain this in the simplest terms - "How would you like to have beans on toast for every meal, for the rest of you life?"  Variety of seed stimulates the birds that eat them.  Millet sprays are highly recommended, but only as a treat - fed too often they become (for lack of a better word) toys!  Millet sprays seem to be the budgie equivalent of chocolate, but not quite as bad for them.
3. Different birds have different preferences for different seeds.

The alternative to finding one good quality mix is to buy a variety and mix them yourself.

My own preference is to buy four different varieties of seed.  Special Budgie or Budgie Continental / Budgie Tonic / Plain Canary / Cockatiel or Small Parakeet Mix. My own preference of supplier is Bucktons as they offer a wide range of good quality seed at a good price, a due to a very good local shop, it is readily available in sufficient quantities. 

I vary the mix somewhat on a day to day basis, but an average is as follows...

The use of Cockatiel or Small Parakeet Mix is for additional oils for winter, also for breeding pairs with youngsters, and then for young birds to introduce them to a wider range of seed.  Older birds that have never known anything but millet and canary seed are reluctant, and sometimes refuse other seed, much to their detriment in my opinion.

If you notice any of you birds gorging themselves on oats, groats, safflower, or sunflower seeds you should remove this from their diet or reduce the amount being offered.

Grit

On the subject of grit I won't go into too much detail, there are much higher authorities than me, it's a subject that could probably fill a website itself.

However, getting back on track, grit is essential.  As you may have noticed budgies don't have any teeth.  this is how it works...

The budgie cracks the husk (outer shell) of the seed and swallows the kernel (inside bit).  The grit that the budgie swallowed earlier stays inside the gizzard (I think that's what its called). The grit grinds up the seed into digestible matter.  Eventually the grit itself gets worn down and passes through the birds system, hence the necessity of having grit present.

Charcoal is sometimes present in the grit mix, or can be bought separately.  If memory serves me correctly "it sweetens the stomach", which I think means it does something good to the stomach acids.

At some point I will add a list of the ingredients of a good grit mix, but at present I can't recall what they are.

Eggshells make an excellent addition (not supplement), as well as having good properties for grinding they are an excellent source of calcium.  I would recommend cooking any eggshells that you are going to use in an oven, microwave, or under the grill.  Firstly this dries them completely making them relatively easy to crumble, and secondly it should kill of any matter that could well develop into harmful bacteria.

Another type of grit that budgies relish is `Shell Sand`.  Free to those who can be bothered to get it from the beach.  The small gritty (stones & shells) stuff you get on the beach.  If you do opt to take the time and put in the effort to get it, only take what is right on the shore line and still wet.  The drier stuff further up the beach might well be contaminated.  Different beaches will have different types of grit, try a few and see what your birds prefer.  I also use this as a covering for the bottom of my cages.  I think its the salt that the budgies go for.  It is worth mentioning that for some reason, its illegal to take this stuff from the beach (as if its going to run out?).  I doubt you'll get prosecuted but if you've just hauled two heavy buckets for what seems miles you might be a bit peeved if the local Bobby tells you to put it back!

Cuttlefish & Iodine Blocks

As you may have noticed I listed these two separately up there, that was more or less to stress the importance of both of them.  But here I'll just clump them together and get on with it.

Cuttlefish is an important, and in many cases the only source of calcium.  If your bird/s refuse to entertain the cuttlefish you might want to consider buying a calcium supplement.  You are not likely to see any on a shelf in your local pet shop, but don't despair, look in any bird keeping magazine, or an online supplier of bird products such as Haiths.

Iodine blocks provide important trace elements that aren't readily available.  Something else you can add if you want is a brick, yup, I said brick.  The clay porous type (usually red), although from what I hear these are more a parrot thing, but if you've got the space and fancy something different...

Another useful function of cuttlefish and iodine blocks, apart from the nutritional value, is that budgies can destroy them.  As strange as this sounds it could actually save you money, budgies can cause a lot of damage with their beaks (especially the hens), they can destroy toys, drinkers, and seed dishes.  they might well destroy them anyway, but at least whilst destroying cuttlefish and iodine blocks they're getting some goodness out of it.

Make your own MINERAL BLOCKS

Any or all of the following ingredients can be mixed together and set in a mould (I use an old ice cube tray); other similar ingredients could be used in addition or as replacements...

Experiment with the mix until you're happy - too much cement will make the block too hard and therefore useless.  Not enough cement and it will crumble too easy.  Remember to set a wire into the mix before it hardens, otherwise you'll have problems fixing it to the cage.

Blocks of this type should be used it addition to and not instead of iodine blocks.

Now that you know what... Here's the how...

All seed dishes should be checked daily.  The dish might look full - horror stories of budgies dying by starvation are not mythical.  Confused? It's simple, budgies crack the husk of the seed and only eat the kernel, some of the husks fall to the floor of the cage, others fall back into the seed dish, and it is only upon close inspection that this can be seen.  So make a point of inspecting the seed dish everyday, blowing off the husks, and topping up as required.  At the very least the seed dish should be emptied and filled with fresh seed at least once a week.

The grit dish as often as not will probably get picked off the side of the cage and dumped on the floor, so replenishing grit shouldn't be a problem.  However, if the grit dish does manage to stay where you put it, give it a stir with your finger every other day or so.  Budgies are very fussy about grit, and for reasons only known to themselves will ignore the grit dish completely if the bits they see on top don't take their fancy.  Other than that you might want to check to see that they haven't turned it all over and devoured all the charcoal.  If a bird does gorge itself on charcoal limit the amount you put in.

All the utensils - feeders, drinkers, toys, perches, etc. - and cages should be washed periodically with hot soapy water periodically (once a week is best, but not essential).  If you decide to use a bleach or disinfectant that is of the low odour type, as contrary to popular belief budgies do have a very good sense of smell.  When you do clean out the cage it is worth it (if the cage permits it) to re-arrange everything when you put it back.  If you have toys and other such odds and ends, it might be worthwhile having two different sets, this way you can use them alternately.  This is for the psychological aspect of the cage, it will help prevent the bird from getting bored and developing stress related symptoms such as feather plucking and/or screeching.  If you only have one budgie and you're out of the house for long periods its a good idea to leave the radio on for company for the bird.

Other things that spring to mind...

A suitable cage will have horizontal bars on at least two faces of the cage (budgies love to climb), and have at the absolute minimum enough width to allow the bird to open its wings comfortably.  If possible have at least three perches, however many perches you have they should all have a different diameter, this will ensure that the birds feet stay supple and flexible.  The shape of the perches isn't important, square, round, oval, or branches from a tree.  If you do decide to use tree branches be sure that they not poisonous to budgies, as I can guarantee they will chew them.

If you keep your budgie in a cage remember to take the time and let it out for daily exercise.  They will soon get into the routine and learn what you expect of them.  Budgies get used to their cages and feel safe and secure in them, so if your budgie is reluctant to come out it is probably because it feels insecure, persevere with it, for a long and happy life the need exercise.  Until they properly get their wings under them and learn to navigate the geography of their environment with agility I recommend you close the curtains, until they learn better they are attracted to the light of a window, glass is beyond their understanding, and many a poor budgie has met a sorry end with a broken neck as a result of flying into a window.