Lighthouse Keeper's Cottages at Blackhead


In the days before there was a border, lighthouses round Great Britain were set up and managed by Trinity House, and their counterparts round the coast of Ireland by the Commissioners of Irish Lights; and the CIL continue to manage Northern Ireland's lighthouses today. However the days of manned lighthouses have gone, and everything is controlled automatically, leaving the keepers' cottages redundant. The cottages and the lighthouses themselves are often so integral that the Commissioners could not consider selling them off, since they need access and control of the lights which are still very much functional. The Irish Landmark Trust was able to negotiate leases on a number of lighthouses and has already restored some in the Republic. Its first such project in the North is at Blackhead (which as you probably know is at Whitehead), and following the successful restoration of Ballealy Cottage Hearth has been appointed architects for this, the second Irish Landmark Trust project in Northern Ireland.

Lighthouses are always placed in prominent locations, invariably windswept and usually isolated. Blackhead is unusual in being quite close to civilisation (the primitive painting from about 1960 of which the above is a detail shows how close the light is to actual holiday cottages between the cliff and the beach of Whitehead). The artist Maurice Wilks had a studio in a nearby cottage and often painted the view back towards the lighthouse:

However it is certainly exposed to the elements, as the Carey painting in the Belfast Harbour Office shows (the lighthouse is the small pimple at the top of the cliff):

When the lighthouse is operating, its light marks the northern entrance to Belfast Lough, and its counterpart at the Copeland Islands near Donaghadee can be seen answering it at intervals. In order to allow the keepers some sleep when off-duty, the light is screened on the landward side. The maze of prisms encircling the lamp means that quite a modest light can be seen for many miles, while a series of valves around the top of the lantern ensure that the amount of ventilation entering the structure can be carefully graduated to suit the most gentle zephyr or the strongest gale from any direction.

The keeper's cottages are much less sophisticated, but were built to the highest specifications about 1900 and have been well maintained ever since. Looking out to sea past the lighthouse they are built of random rubble stone and rendered, with a slate roof constantly exposed to the thermal winds off the sea. Internally, everything is designed for solidity and convenience. A well-crafted trapdoor gives access to the subfloor of the house, and throughout the pitch pine doors and shutters have survived, along with most of the fireplaces and cupboards, and even some of the original colour scheme of cream walls and brown dado.

Although the houses were little altered and still had most of the original built-in cupboards of varnished pitch pine, the dresser was missing from one kitchen and had to be replicated. Amongst the surviving fittings was a mysterious cupboard labelled "for Lighthouse Service" - this was apparently a circulating library of books that would have travelled from one lighthouse to another providing entertainment for the men - sadly, the books hadn't survived, so we don't know what they were enjoying. Another artefact that had survived was the massive blue ensign of the Commissioners for Irish Lights - a reminder that they were set up in the days when the British Isles were a single entity. Here are Jess and Orla of the ILT unfolding it:

 

 

Two cottages have been restored as holiday cottages by the Irish Landmark Trust with the help of a grant from the Heritage Lottery Fund, with Hearth acting as architects. The work consisted mainly of renewing services, along with re-roofing and reputtying the double-hung sash windows. The main contractor was J S Dunlop of Ballymoney, and the quantity surveyor W H Stephens.