| These are the original build instructions scanned in from Henricksen's document supplied on purchase of the M30. I have edited the text for spelling and formatting but the rest is "as was", complete with original costings for a second hand MKI Granada, a very interesting read in the current climate. |
Click on the highlighted text for links to relevant pictures.
Many kit cars and even some production vehicles are built using parts from major manufacturers. For example Lotus use Morris door handles and Rolls Royce use a General Motors gearbox. Although rounding up these parts is not a problem for such large manufacturers, when it comes to the private kit builder it can be a positive nightmare. Trying to use a range of different manufacturer's parts in one vehicle often means that they are mismatched both physically and by specification.
This is why the M30 was designed around a sole donor vehicle. The Granada was the only car that fitted the bill of eas of maintenance, reliability, safety and a sensible donor vehicle cost. Basing the M30 specifically on the top of the Granada range (G.X.L, Ghia or G.T.) one reaps the benefit of their superior specification; power brakes, power steering, tinted glass etc…
Finally, using only one donor vehicle means that your M30 is eligible for the coveted Q plates.
If you do not already own a suitable Granada, they are to be found in abundance in the 'for sale’ columns of local papers, trader magazines and the Exchange and Mart. Your only real choice is between automatic and manual gearbox. Apart from choice, the ‘deciding factor’ will be performance requirements and the location (flat land or hilly), and is the vehicle to be used for towing - the M30 does take a tow bar.
Check several cars if possible and remember that most cars can be purchased a couple of hundred pounds cheaper than advertised when paying cash. The price range is such that you should not need to spend more than £500, no matter how good the car is. £300 - £400 should get a good, low mileage car.
Even if you are only using the engine and gearbox for exchange items, it is best to get a car with good units, as it is an indication of the rest of the car.
So what goes wrong with a MKI Granada? From the front to the rear of the car;
The rest of the Granada is totally reliable and should provide no problems. As a bonus, if the wings etc, are in good condition you should be able to get some money back by selling the spares.
To make this a pleasant task, the first job is to have the car completely steam-cleaned; the £10 will be well worth it. As there are no parts re-used that will suffer from water damage, it is OK to take apart the donor vehicle outside.
Stripping the old Granada is common sense, but following this sequence will ensure that the easiest route is taken;
Now is the time to inspect and carry out any repairs, servicing, etc...
Having taken the Granada donor vehicle apart, you will probably have already grasped the order of construction for the M30. Apart from a few relocated parts, it is just a matter of transferring the bits and pieces. The correct order of assembly is as follows;
The rear suspension;
Insert the diff extension flange through the gap between the chassis and K frame. Lift the diff up into position and locate the four front diff bolts. Similarly, lift into place and bolt up the trailing arms. Last to be fitted are the three rear-mounting bolts and the U shaped clamp plate. The outer two bolts also carry the exhaust brackets. Fit the rear springs in place using the spacers provided, and refit the shock absorbers.
Cut the gear stick hole according to the diagram measurements.
With the rear wheels now on so that the body shell is moveable, lift the M30 body over and onto the front engine/ gearbox/suspension assembly. When in place tighten the nuts at the rear of the gearbox and insert and tighten the four front mounting bolts. There are four correctly sized spacers to be used on the upper bolt. Do not over tighten the top bolts’- pinch tight will do. Watch that the steering join does not jam on the chassis while lowering on the body.
Bolt in the steering/ brake servo chassis using the original bolts. If the car is to be manual then the clutch cable support plate must be used from the donor vehicle. It is not needed with automatic transmission.
Using the self-tapping bolts removed from the Granada front wings; mount the radiator, washer bottle and power steering reservoir.
Fit the handbrake according to the diagram measurements. The cable will need to be cut and shortened, however this is a very simple job. Three of the correct size cable clamps are all that is needed to reconnect the overlapped cable ends.
Mount the sun visors and rear view mirror.
The heater is located as shown in the diagrams section. (hose details).
There are two different types of seat belt. The inertia reel type use the mounting bolts located in the boot, on either side of the petrol tank. The static type use only the cabin mounting bolts. The static part of either type has its fixed mounting located on the K frame utilizing the bolt-holes formerly used for the old type exhaust mounts. All seatbelt points are mounted to metalwork for added safety.
The prop shaft slides into position at its front end and is held by four bolts at the rear end.
The new stainless steel exhausts use the old cast iron manifold clamps. The only supports over such a short run are the manifold bolts and the rear diff hanging straps.
The wiper rack will bolt straight in without any modifications. Notice the angle of the rotating arm on the motor. If disturbed it must be remounted in the same position in the M3O. You will know if you have it wrong - the wipers will park/cancel on the bonnet.
The heater vent holes are already cut or marked so mounting them is a simple job. The demister vents sit solidly against the metal dashboard bar. As they shouldn’t need removing you may as well fix them in solidly using Araldite Rapid Hard. If they are to be removed now and again a simple holding bracket will suffice.
The stereo has full mounting and connecting instructions supplied. Leave the stereo wires till last, as their connections are reasonably delicate. The aerial position is now left to the customers choice, however a mounting position towards the rear of the car is suggested to combat AM crackle.
Treat the dashboard and its surround the same as the demister vents. Glue or bracket them depending on requirements. The interior lights are mounted on either side of the console. The wiring of these is simple - see diagram.
The insulation provided is mainly to combat the transmission of noise through the fiberglass bulkhead. It should be fixed to the whole of the bulkhead area using good carpet glue. Use any leftover insulation on the floor pan and especially the gearbox/tunnel area.
The petrol tank is already fitted so only the pipes need be connected. Run the pipe alongside the chassis for protection, never inside the cabin As both the brake pipe and petrol pipe can be re-used it is suggested that they be run together and fixed securely, Sikaflex does the job well.
As long as the surfaces are clean, all small items such as bonnet and boot support rods and retaining clips can be glued into place using Araldite Rapid Hard. The joint is very strong and should last forever with sensible use.
Once again using the Granada wing bolts, mount the horns on the front of the chassis.
All cables and pipes should be run as per their Granada fitment. Cut as few holes as possible in the fiberglass. All holes should be filled with Sikaflex to prevent leaks. It is OK to use small self tapping screws to fix cables, etc. to stop any drumming.
The door mechanisms are a straight transfer from the old Granada doors. The glass is lowered in through the top of the door while the slider mechanism is maneuvered in through the doorplate. There is a 5mm production tolerance in the alignment of the Granada glass so the mounting point for the winder mechanism hole may have to be realigned by 2.5mm in either direction. Because of this, the fitment of the door material and foam has to specific to any given window. Therefore it can only be accurately done after the door has been completed. A job for the constructor’s wife, girlfriend, mistress etc!
The windscreen can now go in. It’s the usual job of patiently prising back the rubber lip and persuading the glass into position. For £20 a new seal may be a good idea.
Last on the list is the wiring loom. This is in two parts, bonnet area and the rest of the car. Run it as it was fitted in the Granada. A hole will have to be cut in the bulkhead near the accelerator pedal to feed through the jack plugs etc. Make this as small as possible and remember to block it off afterwards. The heater, front indicator and headlight wires are the only ones that need extending. Normal wire connectors will do. The rear lights are best fixed in with Sikaflex, as it also makes sure that they are waterproof. All wire connections should go back as they were in the Granada. Any electrical item which is not mounted on metalwork will have to have a separate earth wire run to it from a good earth - the chassis or roll-cage/dash bar. Use decent wire with good connections. Make sure that all the earth wires are in position before trying anything on the electrical circuit, or you’ll probably blow one of the relays and/or cause feedback burnout of bulbs etc.
The door handle operating rods have to be shortened to the measurements in the diagrams section; ( inside, outside, handle) as they retain their original shape and position. This is not a problem and can easily be done in a vice.