Chassis
Due to weight constraints Reliant's produced a chassis that although strong was fairly light. However in some cases water can enter the chassis through the rivet holes that hold the body in place thus the chassis rust from the inside out. If the car has been stored outside on damp grass etc it is quite possible the rust may mean the Bug needing a new chassis. All is not lost however as repair sections can be fabricated as can a new chassis either using a jig or adapting the chassis from a donor Reliant.
Engine
The Bug lump is a reliable unit but as with most engines the usual noises should be listened for. Tappets are easily adjusted but can tap if not adjusted correctly. The timing chain can also make a clattering noise, The water pump can make a noise and leak if its on its last legs. Oil leaks from the timing case should be looked for, Oil can also leak out from around the sump and in rarer cases from within the bell housing. Big and small end bearing noises should also be looked out for.
The availability of 700/750 engine parts are getting scarce so this should be borne in mind if you are considering rebuilding one. (850 engines are plenty full and parts are a lot easier to obtain). Check for signs of smoke and ask the seller if the car overheats. Overheating can be a Bug problem but there are plenty of ways around this as explained later
The engine on the Bug is a fairly easy job to remove and once its out it's not a difficult engine to rebuild. The rebuilding of a Bug engine is best done using the work shop manual for the Regal/ Robin as there was no workshop manual produced for the bug. If your Bug is fitted with a 700/750 engine replacing it with the later 850 lump is not a major problem but a few items will need changing.
Cooling system
One of the biggest problems of the
Bug can be overheating. This doesn't seem to have been a problem when the Bug was new and is not
common to all Bugs. It can however be caused by various factors including
blocked radiators, wrong sender units / wrong gauge calibration, incorrect
timing and cylinder head to block water channels not aligning correctly.
Various options have been tried to cure this problem and I have set out a few below.
Firstly a good engine flush works wonders in getting rid of years of gunge and will free up the water ways. Fitting a new radiator with the extra cores as used on racing or grass track Mini's gives you a better cooling option. I used one of these on our epic trip to the Arctic circle in 2008 and despite warm weather in Europe I had no problems. Setting the timing correctly will help and is easily done. Fitting an extension pipe to the air filter so it draws air in from above the radiator rather then behind can help. Another option I have fitted is an extra cooling fan moulded into the glass fibre in front of the Radiator. These can be bought cheaply from motorcycle breakers and because they are small will fit in with a bit of tweaking.
Bodywork
A problem common to fibre glass cars is star cracking. This results in cracked paint
work. Bugs are prone to getting knocks on the rear wheel arches. Damage can
also take place on the skirt at the bottom of the Bugs body and also the front.
Fibre glass is very easy to repair
using fibre glass kits and filler. I tend to use a wholesaler on purchasing
glass fibre and filler as its likely you may need a fair bit of the stuff.
Some of the body trim is available from Bond spares as are the window hinges etc.
Steering
The Burman box is held to the chassis with 3 bolts. Particular attention should be used here. Both the alloy on the box or the steel on the mounting plate can corrode and cracks can appear. Oil leakage from the Box is common but is easily cured with new seals available from all good seal and bearing suppliers. Check the worm gear inside if the box has been used dry.
Replacing the bearings and working on
the box is a fairly easy task. The main problem when removing the box is the
bolts as they tend to rust up. Access is a lot easier if you remove the head
light unit. Use grease to hold the small ball bearings in
place when it comes to reassembly. After working on the box it should be
shimmed up and adjusted to allow easy movement but should not be sloppy.
Gearbox and Transmission
The standard Bug box has no
synchromesh
in first gear so this can mean the first gear is a job to engage. The
synchromesh rings also tend to wear out over the years consequently the other
gears can be difficult to engage. Check the Bug for oil leaks on the gearbox/
Back axle/ Wheel bearings Etc. The Bug uses standard seals and all are readily
available albeit probably now in a metric size. Take the old ones out
carefully and use as a template.
Rebuilding the Bug gear box is
best done using a copy of the Regal workshop manual. It is a job that can be
done by the average person requiring no special tools but steer clear if you
don't feel confident. If your not careful its possible to have springs and
ball bearings flying all over the workshop. The diff is a job I haven't
tackled but specialist recondition companies
are around. Prop shafts UJ s are still available from the Spares Scheme and
Reliant part stockists.
Brakes
Apart from wear on shoes, rusty
brake pipes or worn seals the Bug suffers no more problems then any other car.
The Bug should be checked out carefully on the braking front if it has been
left for a long time as the seals in the master cylinder and wheel cylinders
can perish.
The hand brakes on Bugs have also been known to stick- Cables are readily available from the Bug Spares Scheme
If the brake pipes, shoes/seals are worn replace them.
Most parts for the breaking system are available over the counter or from
local Reliant dealers and motor accessory shops -E bay also tends to bring up
a lot of brake parts for Bugs. The problem off sticking hand
brake cables can be cured by fitting small springs attached to the hand brake
levers where they enter the back plate. These will then pull the levers back.
The other end of the spring should be attached to a washer or plate at the
base of the shocks. New cables are available from the Bug spares scheme
(Address on home page)
Suspension
The
original Reliant shock absorber is not readily available from Reliant so most
Bug owners have fitted Spax damping units these work well but are expensive.
Shocks are also available from Hagon and come complete with springs. Hagon
shocks may look a lot smaller then the standard units but work fine. AVO also
supply Bond Bug shock absorbers. The trailing arms are prone to rust if the
car has stood for years so should be checked as should the rubber bushes.
These have recently been remade for the spares scheme.
Additional info
Some years ago obtaining replacement seat covers was a problem but these are now being produced along with the other trim.
A list of alternative parts is also available from the club as well as Hand and Parts Books.
Joining the Bug Club
Please contact the Bug Club secretary Les Gore for more details.
Lesliebondbug@blueyonder.co.uk
01293 426954
Bond Bug Spares Scheme
If you need a Bug part Please feel free to give Dave a ring on 01424 446078
Proceeds are ploughed back into the scheme to enable the production of some of the rarer Bug Parts.