Extracts from: "History of the Manor and Ancient Barony of Castle Combe in the County of Wilts" (with kind thanks to Carl Young for the page)   by G. Poulett Scrope Esq. MP,   Published 1852 William Le Scrope EARL of WILTSHIRE K.G.

Go to next chapter

CHAPTER 1.
PRESENT ASPECT OF THE VILLAGE - UPPER AND LOWER COMBE - DESCRIPTION OF THE PARISH-ITS SCENERY, &c.

THE ancient market-town of Castle Combe was formerly a place of some consequence, but now ranks only as a village, its market being disused, its once flourishing clothing-trade departed, its population considerably, reduced, still diminishing.

This decay is perhaps owing in some measure to the difficulties of its approach. It lies deeply embosomed among steep, and generally wooded, slopes, in an angle of one of those narrow cleft-like valleys that intersect and drain the flat-topped range of limestone-hills called in Gloucestershire the Cotswolds, and which extend southwards across the N.E. corner of Wiltshire as far as Bath. A small but rapid stream runs through the village, and, after a course of some miles, joins the Avon near the town of Box, whence it is known as the Box Brook.

The position here described gave occasion to the name of Combe, by which in the Saxon aera, and for some time afterwards, the place was alone designated. The prefix was subsequently added from "the Castle," the meagre remains of which still crown the extremity of a hill about a quarter of a mile west of the town; but which, when entire, must have proudly overlooked the combe, or narrow valley, where the church and the principal part of the village are built. In the centre of the latter, and close to the church, stands the ancient market-cross, designating the market-place, from whence the three main streets of the village diverge. The houses which compose it, built of the rubbly limestone of the surrounding hills, generally retain the gable-fronts, labelled and mullioned windows, and often the wide stone-arched, fireplaces, characteristic of ancient English architecture. On the other side of the church, and at the termination of "West Street," the old road to the Castle, stands the gabled Manor-house. Another secondary manor, or Dowry-house, of equally primitive appearance, borders the High Street, or road which leads up the hill to the north. A few other houses are scattered on the side of this hill; and on the level top, beside the high-road (now a turnpike) leading from Chippenham to Sodbury, are several farm-houses and cottages which go by the name of Upper, or Over, Combe. The latter phrase is found thus applied, in all the old documents concerning the manor, that of Nether Combe distinguishing the lower part of the place - distinctions of Saxon origin, no doubt, being almost exactly the Ober and Neider still prefixed to the names of villages similarly situated in Germany. This difference of position in the two divisions of the town had its origin, of course, in motives of convenience, suggested by the different occupations, of their inhabitants, as is well explained by the following passage in a MS. Extent contained in an ancient Chartulary or Book of Evidences preserved at Castle Combe, chiefly in the handwriting of William of Worcester, who was Surveyor of this manor between the years 1430 and 1465, and which we shall have frequent occasion to refer to.

In the said manor are two towns, one called Over Combe, in which reside the yeomen, who are occupied in the culture and working of the land which lies upon the hill, and the other called Nether Combe, in which dwell the men who use to make cloth, such as weavers, fullers, dyers, and other tradesmen."

The clothing trade, which appears from this extract to have flourished here at so early a date, was favoured by the rapid stream of water that traverses the parish, admitting of the erection of several fulling-mills upon it. About a century back there was still much cloth made here; and the church contains several monuments to clothiers. One of these, recording a family of the name of Fisher, who for some generations occupied Colham Mill, was erected in 1764 to the memory of his parents by Walter Fisher, Esq., at that time Member of Parliament for Boroughbridge, and previously for Malmesbury.

Of late, however, the superior advantages of the vale of Avon and the Gloucestershire clothing districts have carried off the trade, and for some years past not a shuttle has been thrown in the parish. The last of the old clothing-mills and dye-houses were pulled down about twenty-five years back.

The parish of Castle Combe is conterminous with the manor. It is bounded on the north by Littleton-Drew, Grittleton, and Sevington; on the east by Yatton Keynell; on the south by Slaughterford and North Wraxall; and on the west by Nettleton. It contains about 1,520 acres, the whole of which is owned by William Scrope, Esq., the lord of the manor, with the exception of a farm of about 75 acres belonging to a respectable yeoman's fanmily of the name of Child, by whom it was purchased of Oriel College, Oxford, the site of a paper-mill, and a few acres of land at Longdene, on the outskirts of the parish, and the rector's grebe, consisting of 25 acres. Mr. Scrope owns also the advowson of the rectory.

About 800 acres of this parish formerly lay in two large common fields, called North and South Fields, until their enclosure was effected towards the end of the seventeenth century. These fields occupied the flat table-land of the hills north and east of the village. The southern and western portion of the parish, consisting of a long tongue-shaped hill, cut off by the valley from the rest, and which now comprehends the Shrub Farm, was in part a deer-park, and the remainder a wild and rough scrubby common of pasture called The Shrub (scrobes). The more level parts of this division have been inclosed and ploughed; but the steep sides of the two valleys which nearly encircle it are still in the same rude, shaggy state as they probably were when the Domesday Survey was taken, being covered with wood or coarse pasture, indented by old stone-quarries, and sprinkled over with thorns and hazel-bushes, among which rise here and there as many knotted oaks or twisted ash-trees as have been able to escape in infancy the teeth of the young breeding-stock that ramble over these hills throughout the year. Of the same character is the Castle-hill to the north of the brook, the trenches and mounds of its old earthworks being almost concealed from sight by trees and wild-thorn brakes. The course both of the main valley and of its tributary dells abruptly shifts at frequent intervals to one nearly at a right angle to its former direction, betraying to the eye of the geologist the transverse lines of fracture by which, at some early epoch of convulsion, the usually horizontal strata of oolite limestone that compose the hills were rent asunder. In fact, it is only by courtesy that even the principal of these mere glens can be styled a valley. The grassy slopes which meet at its bottom-here and there expand, it is true, into a level meadow, while the hills on either side recede in bosoming hollows; but at every turn it narrows again to a gorge between steep and almost craggy banks. The hill-sides are clothed either with wood or pasture dotted with trees and bushes. The brook winds from side to side at their foot, sometimes twisting about in a remarkable manner, and occasionally dammed up by the hatches of a mill. Of these there are now only three in the parish (two corn and one paper mill); anciently, as has been said, they were much more numerous.

These features give to the scenery of the parish much beauty, and to some parts an air of romantic seclusion. The immediate neighbourhood of the village is especially striking. The old grey church-tower rising from among trees and low roofs in the bottom, the river rushing over stony shallows or tumbling over weirs, the gabled manor-house, at an angle of the broadest meadow overhung by its terraced gardens, and the wooded Castle-hill jutting into the vale in the near distance, combine to form an interesting picture. This agreeable character is, however, confined to the valleys. The flat surface of the table-land around gives something of monotony to the high country, which is not at all improved by the occasional stone walls of the modern enclosures, or the pollarded trees of the older hedgerows. Indeed, whatever may have been gained by the enclosures, which, in this neighbourhood as elsewhere, have been very numerous since the beginning of the present century (and, no doubt, both the landowners and the community generally have derived very considerable benefit from them), the picturesque of the district has grievously suffered by the conversion of extensive downs of elastic turf, varied with occasional brakes and groves of wild wood, into rectangular fields separated by dry walls built of the rubbly stone of the country, often without a tree or hedge occurring for miles to relieve the monotony of the prospect. Patches of old wood and turf left here and there, as if out of compunction, such as the Marshfield Thorns and Kington Thorns, only, like oases in the desert, make the surrounding desolation appear more disagreeable. Those who have, travelled the high-road from Bath to Gloucester, or who are acquainted with the general character of the Cotswolds in the present day, must well know the unpleasing effect of this stone-wall country." Fortunately for Castle Combe, the parish lies on the borders of this district, where its eastern slope unites with the richer hedge-row and pasture country of the vale of Avon, and partakes more of the latter than of the former scenery, possessing, besides, the peculiar charms of its own secluded and intricate valleys.

Back to Chapter 1

CHAPTER XI.
THE CHURCH, MARKET-CROSS, PARSONAGE, MANOR-HOUSE, AND OTHER BUILDINGS,-HISTORY AND DESCRIPTION OF.

Interior of the old Church of Castle Combe, from the East End
THE Church of Castle Combe was dedicated to St. Andrew. The advowson has always belonged to the lord of the manor. The living is a rectory, endowed with the great tithes of the parish. It is in the deanery of Malmesbury, and now in the diocese of Gloucester and Bristol-formerly in that of Sarum. There is no modus, and the tithes were commuted by instrument, under the seal of the Tithe Commissioners, dated the 1st January, 1842, for a rent-charge of 383l. per annum, variable according to the tithe averages. There is likewise a glebe comprehending about 25 acres, and a dilapidated parsonage-house, which, for several generations past, has been occupied only by cottagers or petty tradesmen. The Rector has peculiar jurisdiction for the probate of wills, which has been exercised from time immemorial.

In the ecclesiastical taxation of England and Wales, made by command of Pope Nicholas in 1291, the church of Castle Combe was rated at 8l. per annum, and the tenths taken at 16s. And in 1342, when, to defray the expenses of the foreign wars of King Edward the Third, the Parliament granted him for two years the ninth sheaf, fleece, and lamb, the contribution of Castle Combe is thus recorded in the volume called "Inquisitiones Nonarum."

(Translation.) -The presentation of John North, Roger Pieres, William le Taillour, and John atte Weye, made before Robert Selyman and his fellow assessors and venditors of the ninths, &c. for the county of Wilts, sitting at Malmesbury on Friday before St. Gregory's day, in the 15th Edward III. (1341), who present that the ninth part of the sheaves, fleeces, and lambs granted to the King of the church of Combe, is worth this last past' year 4l. 6s. 8d. and no more, because that the parson of the said church has there one message and a yard-land worth l0s. the year; the parson's meadow is worth 8s.; the tithes of pasture and wood are worth 13s. 4d. ; the offerings, obvents, heriotts, and small tithes are worth 20s. the year. In witness whereof the aforesaid have affixed their seals. And there is no foreigner there from whom any fifteenth can be levied, nor any benefice within the said parish other than the aforesaid church.-Inquisitiones Nonarum 15 Edw. III.

Church at Castle Combe Wilts, (In 1850 before the restoration)

At the time of the Valor Ecolesiasticus, or Survey of Ecclesiastical Benefices, made by order of Henry the Eighth in 1536, this rectory was rated at 9l. its present valuation in "the King's books." The church is seated near the centre of the lower town, between the old market-place and the manor-house, and its handsome freestone tower appears to great advantage from every side, backed by the wooded hills among which the village lies embosomed. The date of its original erection is unknown. In the course of the last and the present year (1850-51) nearly the whole of the ancient edifice, - with the exception of the tower, has been taken down, and rebuilt upon the old foundations, symptoms of insecurity having shown themselves in the principal arches and buttresses, rendering very extensive repairs inevitable.

In the course of its demolition fragments of carved stone were found in the old walls, belonging to a very rude and early age but, with this exception, the most ancient portion of the building remaining at that time was the east window over the communion-table, consisting of four narrow slightly-trefoiled lancet-lights with a quatrefoil opening above, within a deeply arched interior recess. The style of this window, which has been carefully preserved and glazed in rich colours, is of the thirteenth century. Its form (though very effective and beautiful) is extremely rare-perhaps unique.

This window had been at an early period blocked up and completely concealed, the internal recessed arch being filled with masonry, and a strong stone vaulted building erected on the outside, which served the purpose of a vestry, a communication being made by a small door broken in the east wall on the south side of the communion-table. It had also a two-light window to the south. The architecture of both this window and door was certainly as early as the fifteenth century, so that the east window was built up at least from that period. The window being narrow, and strongly secured by very heavy iron bars, I am induced to believe that this rather singular structure was built as a place of security for the communion plate and parish deeds, shortly after the robbery of the church in the year 1468, recorded in the court rolls. It is there stated that one Richard Hacell, touker,§ of Castle Combe, on the 12th of March, broke into and stole from the church ,one missal of the value of fourteen marks, one silver-gilt, cup of the value of eight marks, one silver cup of the value of four marks, and one 'pax-brede' of the value of fifteen shillings, the goods and chattels of the parishioners of the said church, in the custody of John Douston and Richard Hachild, then churchwardens."§

There can be no doubt that the chancel was the most ancient part of the old church. The Reverend Joseph Hunter, whose high authority will be readily admitted, considered it to belong to the twelfth century.

The body of the church (which has been rebuilt almost exactly after the old plan, and in great part with the same materials, the stonework of the pillars and arches and windows having been restored to their old position, or replaced, where necessary, in the same forms,) was referred by him to the reign of Richard the Second (1377-99). The tower was certainly of still later date, the exact year of its commencement (1434) appearing in an entry already given from one of Wyrcestre's MSS.:-

(Translation.)-Memdum That in the 12th year Of King Henry VI. the new work or foundation of the belfry was begun at the church of Castle Combe.

This tower is lofty and massive, being 80 feet high, and flanked by strong and boldly-projecting buttresses at the four angles, all having crocketed pinnacles at the three stories, as well as at the summit. On the south side is a turret containing the winding staircase, which terminates in a richly crocketed octagonal belfry-spire, pierced with four lateral windows. The parapet has handsome panelled battlements. Over the western entrance-door is a large and deeply-set window of Perpendicular character, and on either side two peculiarly elegant canopied statue-niches. Internally, the tower opens by a remarkably lofty arch to the nave, bringing into view a handsome stone-vaulted roof, consisting of four fan-shaped compartments of groined tracery springing from the internal angles of the tower. This roof, which forms the floor of the belfry, is pierced in the centre with a circular opening, intended probably to allow the bells to be drawn up through it. View of the West Window of the church of castle Combe

The body of the church consists of a lofty nave, with lateral aisles opening into it by three spacious arches on each side, which rest on very slender and graceful clustered pillars. Besides the flood of light poured in from the west window, it is also admitted through three square-headed windows on either side, as well as by an equal number in the clerestory above, and a rich rose-window over the chancel arch. The nave has a bold timber roof of the waggon form. The chancel and side-chapels on either side of it,have panelled ceilings, richly painted and gilt. The most remarkable feature of the whole is the arch that separates the nave from the chancel, which has been carefully replaced in its original position. It contains, in high relief and in fine preservation, six figures in canopied niches, of which it is hard to say how they escaped from the iconoclasts of former times. They represent severally, St. Peter bearing - the key; St. Andrew, the patron Saint of the church, mitred and bearing his cross; St. James, habited as a pilgrim, with cockleshell and staff; and three other saintly personages not easily recognised, two of them female, the third male, with a knife in his hand. Some corbelled heads, inserted in the walls to give support to the roof, are also worth noticing. Mr. Hunter considered them to have been probably portraits-one, crowned and with an ermine mantle, bearing a likeness to Edward the Fifth; another, with a judge's hood and mantle resembling the portraits of Judge Gascoigne (query, a caricature of him by Stephen Scrope ?)

The side-aisles being longer than the nave, their eastern prolongations form two chapels communicating with the chancel, the northern by two arched openings, the southern by one. The former is built over the vault of the Scrope family, and contains several monuments. The latter still shows the stone stairs which formerly led to the rood-loft, and a massive stone corbel upon which its timbers rested. These chapels had each its altar. It appears, indeed, from the will of Richard Hallwey, referred to above, that there were four several altars in use in this church in the fifteenth century, dedicated respectively to St. Mary, the Holy Cross, St. Andrew and St. Nicholas, each being probably served by its appropriate chaplain, two chaplains besides the rector being mentioned in another document.

The old carved oak pulpit has been replaced, as well as the handsome stone octagonal font, which belongs to the early-English style.
Font in the old Church of Castle Combe
Three new windows in the chancel aisles are richly emblazoned; those of the north aisle containing the principal quarterings of the Scrope family, arranged in chronological order; that of the south aisle the shields of the successive lords of the manor, from Earl Reginald Fitzroy to the present day. AU the other windows throughout the church have also more or less of stained glass, of an ecclesiastical character, introduced into them. That on the south side of the chancel, the gift of the present Rector, is remarkable for, the beauty of its design and execution. It represents our Saviour surrounded by children, and was the work of an artist of great promise, the late Mr. Gibbs, whose sudden death cannot but be felt as a great loss to this branch of art.

The east window in the south aisle, before its restoration, contained some remnants of old painted glass. In Aubrey's time it had more, and particularly a shield bearing the arms of Sir John Fastolf, which is figured by him on the margin of his MS. The coat of Fastolf has been replaced among the other armorial enrichments of this window.
Tomb of .... De Dunstanville, Church of Castle Combe
In a recess of the wall of the north aisle is a monument of a recumbent 'knight in chain-armour, his legs crossed and resting on a lion, his head supported by a winged angel on either side. The left arm bears a shield, but without any device. The altar-tomb on which the figure rests is decorated with six female figures in canopied niches. This monument appears to belong to the, early part of the thirteenth century, and is therefore probably as old as any portion of the church itself. It must be considered to represent one of the De Dunstanvilles, Barons of Castle Combe, who for three generations, as we have seen, made the castle their residence.

The other monuments in the church are not numerous. A stone slab in the floor records the burial-place of "Gorges Scrope, esquire, who died December 27th, 1744, aged 44 years, and Mary his wife, who died July 13th, 1774, aged 74." Another bears the inscription, "Susanna, wife of John Davis, Esq. of Wallington, co. Norfolk, ob. 5 May, 1750." Another of "The Rev. Henry Southouse, Rector of this parish, ob. July, - 1811, aged 39." And one of the Rev. Dr. Richard Scrope, ob. July 8th, 1787.

The general commemorative monument erected to the Scrope family by Dr. Scrope himself has been already noticed.

In the south aisle, below the east window, a square stone let into the wall has the following inscription:- Remedium . unicum . Jesus. Ch
ristus . Christ . is . the . only .
salve . for . everi . sore . Lear
ne . him . a . right . ye . neade
to . learne . no . more . Rica
rdus . Gillus . obiit . no
no . die . Januarii
1588.

In the body of the church and tower are some ordinary monuments or tablets to members of the families of Child, Taylor, Watts, Lewis, Fisher, Bevan, White, Wild, Jenkins, several of whom were clothiers, and all repeatedly mentioned in the court rolls as respectable inhabitants of the manor. A handsome one in marble has been already alluded to, bearing the following inscription:-'

Near this place are deposited the bodies of
Mr. 'WALTER FISHER, clothier, and MARY his wife,
who left behind them six sons and four daughters,
all decently educated and formed for the world
by their industrious care and tenderness.
To the memory of
these valuable and respectable parents
BRICE FISHER, Esq. their youngest son,
Member in the last Parliament for MALMESBURY, in this neighbourhood,
and in the present for BOROUGHBRIDGE, in Yorkshire,
hath caused this monument to be erected, A.D. 1764.
WALTER, JOHN, RICHARD, and WILLIAM, sons of the said Walter and Mary Fisher,
are here also interred.

In the north aisle are several inscribed tablets, some of early dates, to the Child family, who have been mentioned as still holding a freehold estate within the manor.

The church was probably in great part built at the expense of the wealthy clothiers of the place. The bequest of one of them, a native or serf of the manor, by name William Heyne, of twenty pounds, " datum fabricae ecclesiae et campanilae de Castel Combe," "to the building of the church and belfry tower," in the year 1436, has been' quoted. This year corresponds, almost exactly, with the commencement of the tower as recorded by William Wyrcestre. Probably, also, some of the vast personal wealth of Fastolf, which came to the disposition of Sir John Howes, one of his two chief executors, and who was rector of this church, was applied by him here, the old knight having, specially enjoined in his will its appropriation to such purposes "in parishes of which he was lord."

The church has been entirely re-pewed in oak, or rather fitted up with uniform low open seats, and the interior altogether has a spacious, airy, and imposing character. The same may be also said of the external appearance, the roofs of the side-aisles being battlemented, and a handsome porch protecting the south entrance. In a niche over the door is a figure of our Saviour with extended hands, as'if inviting to the entrance of HIS temple.

It seems that the tower underwent some repairs towards the close of the sixteenth century (or perhaps was only completed at that time), this inscription being deeply out in the stonework of its eastern face, immediately below the string-course which supports the parapet

VIVAT REGINA
ANNO DOMINI 1576.
Beneath is carved in relief the 'representation of a weaver's shuttle, shears, and some other instruments of the clothing trade.

The small bell in the belfry-spire is inscribed-

Sancte Gregore ora pro nobis.
Aubrey speaks of this as "the great bell," and of two others not now in existence. Old people still living report that it was intended in the time of "Madam Scrope" to have a peal of seven bells put up in exchange for the three old ones, at a cost of 100l. ; but that a clothier of the place, of the name of Taylor, dissuaded the lady of the manor from the project, on the (not unreasonable) ground of the bad habits frequently observed to be contracted by "the ringers." The result was the exchange of 'two bells only for one large one, cast by Mr. Tiler, bell-founder at Gloucester, according to the terms of an agreement, which is still preserved, having the signatures of Mary Scrope, John Scrope, Francis Tyler, Thomas Child, and Thomas and James Taylor, churchwardens. This large bell is hung in the centre of the tower. It bears the date of 1766, with the following very common distich round the outer edge:-

I TO THE CHURCH THE LIVING CALL,
AND TO THE GRAVE DO SUMMON ALL.
The churchyard contains numerous tombstones and monuments of the heavy sarcophagus form, recording the burial-places of many of the old families of the place, whose names continually recur in the court rolls from the earliest times, such as Newman, Taylor, Watts, Wallop, West, Wigmore, Pullen, Jones, Smyth, Sargent, Cromp, Nowell, Broom, Kington, Beazer, Banks, Tanner, Keynes, &c.

The parish register reaches back only to the date of 1653. One of the earliest entries records the burial, in 1662, of Mr. Roger Flower, minister of the parish. It contains a list of the communion plate, dated 1775, which might serve for that of the present day-viz.

A large silver flagon, given by Mrs. Frances Scrope in the year 1775.
Two silver patens, given by the same in the same year.
A silver cup, which in that year was taken in exchange for one given by Richard Scrope, esquire, in 1721.

THE MARKET CROSS
Close adjoining to the church on the east, and in the centre of the village, where its three principal streets converge, stands the ancient market-cross.

The Market-Cross at Castle Combe
It consists of a square stone pedestal raised upon two steps, and ornamented with sunk panels quatrefoiled, with shields and roses alternately in their centres. From this springs a slender quadrilateral shaft, which pierces the roof, and is capped by a finial. At each angle of the platform is a massive stone pier, about six feet high, supporting the wooden lintels of a square, pyramidal, tiled roof. These angle-piers seem as if originally intended to be carried higher, perhaps even to support stone arches and a vaulted roof, like those of the market-crosses of Malmesbury and Salisbury. A closer inspection, however, proves that, though of imperfect design, the structure is complete as it stands, and has never been otherwise. Want of funds probably prevented the execution of the original intention.

A few years back a group of old houses stood insulated in the centre of the market-place, near the cross, and formed a sort of open market-house, or shambles, the upper story being raised on stout timber posts, so as to afford shelter from the weather for the frequenters of the market. This upper story the building was formerly called the Church-house, and was employed as a sort of guild-hall, or common meeting-place, to which the principal inhabitants resorted to consult for objects of general interest, such as the support of the poor, and where they occasionally feasted together, or distributed alms to the indigent, before the institution of the poor-laws. Ale brewed for the purpose at this house, and called church-ale, was consumed on these occasions. The court rolls contain many references to this practice. Aubrey, who mentions the custom, supposes it to have originated from the "Agapae," or love-feasts of the primitive Christians; but it is scarcely necessary to seek thus far back for the origin of a practice so consonant to the habits and interests of a small self-regulated community, such as the inhabitants of this old place composed. The building in question was taken down about ten years back for the enlargement of the thoroughfare.

Front view of the old Parsonage House
The Old Rectory House, ..... consists at present but of a low straggling building, fronting the street of the village, and divided into two poor tenements. Previous to the year 1836 a ruinous but lofty gate-house stood at the north end of this range of building, and opened into the parson's yard at the back, where is the tithe barn.

At the side of the opening a narrow pointed arch door, still to be seen, afforded access by a spiral stone staircase, to two well proportioned chambers over the gate; and these two rooms composed, probably, the entire residence of the parson, in an age when the celibacy of the clergy rendered a spacious habitation unnecessary. The chimney shaft of this gate house, towards the street, was handsomely panelled, and the principal window of that front ornamented with well carved label and corbels, and altogether of good architectural character. But although built originally of squared freestone, and resembling more the gate house of a castle than of a parsonage, time had rendered the old structure so crazy that it became necessary to take this down likewise, to save it from falling across the street on the opposite houses. It had to all appearance undergone no repair for a couple of centuries at least, and had been long occupied by paupers.

Among the Castle Combe MSS is a letter of attorney, of the date of 1543, from "John Strymyn, clerke, parson of Castle Combe," authorising Richard Scrope, esquire to sue the executors of his predecessor in the rectory, Rowland Spicer, for "dilapidations of the parsonage aforesaid;" and it seems highly probable that the building was never repaired from that time to the present.

Back View of the old Parsonage House
It appears indeed, from other documents that Richard Scrope, esquire, rented the parsonage of the aforesaid John Strymyn at a half yearly rent of five pounds, for which several of his receipts are extant, dated in the reigns of Edward the Fourth and Henry the Eighth, "by the grace of God Kyng of England, France, and Ireland, Defender of the Faith, and in earth the supreme head of the church of England and Ireland." The glebe contained about twenty five acres, for which ten pounds per annum was perhaps not an improbable rent, especially from the patron of the living, who it is to be suspected, made this lease and the above letter of attorney conditions on which he nominated Strymyn to the rectory.

The Rector now resides in a handsome house recently erected in a very pleasing situation at the entrance of the village from Bath, and the old rectory is applied to uses more appropriate to its present condition.

The MANOR-HOUSE has been so frequently altered that few traces remain of its original construction, though it is probable that the site is unchanged. In the time of Fastolf we have seen that it was divided into several tenements, let to different families. When the lords of the manor came to reside here permanently it was probably much enlarged and improved, though at no time (as has been before adverted to) was any really handsome mansion erected, corresponding to the position of the family. It must, however, have been tolerably spacious, as on several occasions it was (according to the usage of the age) divided among different branches of the family, each of which had their several apartments assigned to them. This was the case, for example, in 1601, when George Scrope reserved to himself " three chambers, videlicet, his bed-chamber, the gallerye, and the chamber next his bed-chamber."

In an inventory of the effects of John Scrope, esquire, taken upon his decease in 1645, the following different apartments are mentioned, viz.-"His own bed-chamber, the chambers wherein his daughters and mayd-servants lay, the captaine's chamber, the closett within the said chamber, Mistress Hodges her chamber, the greate chamber, the inner chamber in the newe buildynges, the outward chamber, the men-servants' chamber, the parlor, the kitchen and larder, the dayry, the hall, the closett, the butteries, a wool-loft, a, corn-loft, a cheese-loft, and a cock-loft, a stable, an ox-house, and a wagon-house," &c.

This list, however, does not convey the notion of a very extensive or luxurious dwelling, which the modest fortunes of the successive lords of the manor did not at any period permit them to erect. Indeed, one feature of the manor-house presented a very homely aspect. Until towards the beginning of the present century a mill-race ran at the back of the house, turning a wheel attached to its northern angle, and grinding the liege's corn within hearing of the lord's dining-table. The miller resided at some little distance; but it is recorded among the traditions of the place that a Miss Scrope of some two or three generations back gave a preference to the chamber of which the window overlooked the wheel, for the reason that "she loved the clack of the mill."

This recals the quaint phrase of old Aubrey, who, describing the style of architecture usual in an old English gentleman's house of this neighbourhood in his time, says,-"Within the little green courte where you came in stood on one side the barne. They then thought not the noyse of the threshold ill musique." Nor was the " little green court " wanting in this instance, nor the barn and stables near its entrance, nor the farmyard beyond, the avenue leading from the great gates up to the church, the canal and fish-stews bordering the rectangular garden-terraces towards the south;-all these live in the remembrance of many of the villagers.

The house has within the last twenty years been considerably altered, an addition being made on either side. The old entrance-hall is preserved, and retains on its carved stone mantelpiece the shields of Scrope impaling Gore and Gorges severally, and quartering Tiptoft and Badlesmere. The wainscoting, in richly-grained old oak, may possess some interest to the antiquary, as having been transferred in 1826 from the banqueting-room of the manor-house at Easton Piers, the birthplace and property of John Aubrey, then in a dilapidated condition, and indeed turned into a darkened and mouldy cellar. It has a well-carved frieze, in which the arms of Lyte, Keynell, Brown, and Snell were repeated, as well as the date 1662, and the initials T. L. of Thomas Lyte, the builder of the house, Aubrey's maternal grandfather. This date corresponds with that of the hall in which the wainscoting is now placed.

The gardens attached to the house rise in terraces cut out of the steep hill immediately behind, and are connected with it by a handsome flight of stone balustered steps. The river winding through the meadow at some little distance, and the richly-wooded banks on either side the valley, give a picturesque and very romantic character to the situation, while the proximity of the church and village add animation and interest to the scene. There is a second or inferior manor-house at a higher level, adjoining the road leading up the town, which bears the name of the Upper House, and was probably built at some time in the sixteenth or seventeenth century as a dowry-house, or the residence of some younger branch of the Scrope family, their shield occupying a conspicuous place over the entrance-door (with a crescent for difference). Richard Scrope, the second son of John Scrope, esquire, by his second wife, Jane Nelson, spent his life at Castle Combe, as appears from the registry of the birth of his numerous family, and occupied the Upper House, while his nephew, Gorges, inhabited the manor-house. The widow of Dr. Richard Scrope also resided there.

Many of the smaller houses in the place offer signs of considerable antiquity in their gabled fronts, labelled and mullioned windows, and wide-pointed, arched fire-places. Several of them date from the time of Sir John Fastolfe,-the golden age of Castle Combe,-when, as we have seen, so many new houses were erected.

The number of houses is, however, at present diminishing, yearly almost, with the diminution of the population. They were in 1831 162, and in 1851 are reduced to 145.
Plan and elevation of the East Window of the church

Back to: Top: / Chapter 1: / Chapter XI: