|
|
Refer to the owners handbook for removal procedure of the indicators - see under changing bulb section. Otherwise you run the risk of breaking the tab which holds the indicator in. If you do break the tab then super glue it back and then reinforce the join with some Milliput modelling compound which you can buy for about £3.50 from any toy/model shop (cheaper than paying £30 for a new indicator!) |
|
|
The big bolts behind the indicators take all the weight of the front bumper and should be the last item to be removed. Five self tapping screws are accessed from under the front bonnet. |
|
|
Passenger side nose section with blue arrows showing where the hidden screws are behing the wheel arch liner. |
|
|
Inside view of the nose section. |
|
|
The front mesh is only held on with self tapping screws. |
|
|
This is a good time to get out the waxoil and paint all those nooks and crannies to stop them from rusting five years down the line. |
|
|
Blue tape shows hidden self tapping screws which you gain access to by pulling back the plastic wheel arch liner. |
|
|
And the finished nose job - Abingdon LE style stainless steel grills (note blue tape holding indicator on prior to repair! Doh! See first comment re reading the owners handbook on changing bulbs at the very top. |
| Side Vents | The side vents are only held on by two self tapping cross head screws which are clearly visible. The old mesh (held in by black rubber mastic) can be cut free using a stanley knife (be careful not to cut yourself!). The new grills can be fixed in with clear bath sealant or similar mastic obtained from any DIY store. |
Return to MGF Index
Email me at : Martin.Woods@virginspam.net
(remove the word spam to email me)