Wed 11th May

Today was a very tiring day in Kathmandu. (No sleep last night) A few of the group did manage to go into town and visit Pashupatinath and Bodhnath. Then we all met up for an evening meal in the rather splendid Dwarikas Hotel.

Thur 12th May

We flew to Paro today in one of the new airbus A319 aeroplanes. The flight originated in Delhi, where some members of the party had flew to. The airbuses are much larger than the old plane and make the entry into the narrow Paro valley very exciting indeed. The plane rocks and rolls all over the place and the wing tips literally skim the valley sides by what looks like feet. We drove straight to the Olothang hotel, which has matured somewhat since my first stay there in 1993. We went to the National museum which has some lovely artefacts of past and present Bhutan. The colourful stamp collection always being a favourite of mine. Then we went into Paro Dzong. An impressive building. I noticed at the altar there were some offerings, among which were R. edgeworthii and R. maddenii, both in full flower. Hopefully we would see them and lots more over the next two weeks. Outside, walking down to the old cantilever bridge a peregrine falcon (Falco peregrinus) was spotted flying high and in the large Cuppressus corneyana trees, my first ever sighting of this spectacular bird.

Fri 13th May

Today we set off for Thimphu, via the Haa valley. The main pass here is called the Chelela and it was the site of our first botanise. On the way up we drove through typical natural forests alternating between the Blue pine (Pinus wallichii) and Hemlock (Tsuga dumosa), which changed to fir (Abies densa) forest at higher elevation. The Tsuga and Abies forests are by far the most interesting for me, as they are damper and support a much wider flora than the dryer Pinus forests.

On the way up we found Primula smithiana and erithrocarpa (which is a poor looking P. denticulata) then later the superb blue P. griffithii. There was a lovely flowering tree that we had a good debate over. We could not decide whether it was an apple or pear, but it was beautiful covered in small, pink fading to white flowers. On return it has been confirmed as Malus baccata (apple). It was growing amongst Rh, arboreum, and R. hodgsonii. Another member of the Primula family we saw was a Bryocarpum himalayicum growing in the shade of R. cinnabarinum subsp cinnabarinum (yellow flowers as well.) and R. campylocarpum.

At the top of the CheleLa (12500ft/3810m) we had a good look around, I managed to find pink Rh anthopogon and R. wallichii in flower and R. setosum, R. lepidotum and a plant that looked like R. nivale (possibly just a wide squat leaved form of R. lepidotum). Members of the group also found a small Euphorbia*1, a small blue Gentian byroides and a lovely pink fading to white flowered Anemone demissa.

We drove through much dryer Pinus wallichii forest, where lots of Verbascum rosettes were waiting to shoot skywards and the lovely fireglow red/orange Euphorbia griffithii was at its best. We soon found ourselves in the town of Haa, (8100ft/2470m) then after a picnic lunch we carried on driving to Thimphu.

That evening, we, (The Bhutan Society of the UK) hosted a civic reception. We were making a formal presentation to the Bhutan Wildlife Society and donated the cash that had been raised back in the UK. Christopher McLaren presented it to the President on behalf of our Society. It was a thoroughly enjoyable evening. I always enjoy meeting people and even met some old friends.

Sat 14th May

We spent the morning at the lively weekend market. In the square in Thimhu we found a Benthenmidea capitata (Syn. Cornus capitata) in full flower. In the afternoon we drove to Begana, past a lovely painting an a huge rock. This is where Michael lives when he is in Bhutan. We were made very welcome. In his garden we found the little pink flowered R. virgatum. We also met his son Kesange and family and had a cup of tea, before setting off up the road to Cherri monastery. Cherri is the centre of monastic studies in Bhutan. At the bridge over the river we found, Ariseama nepenthoides and A. concinnum. Later in the day we began the drive to Wangdiphodrang, via the Dochu La (10 300ft/3140m). On the way up we saw the usual range of rhododendrons including R. arboreum, R. keysii, R. barbatum, R. kesangiae and R. hodgsonii. Near the top we were pleasantly surprised to see some Grey Langur (Semnopithecus entellus) monkeys. They were quite content to sit and watch us once they had retreated from the road a little. The top of the pass had changed quite a bit since the last time I saw it in 2002. There was a large Chorten at the top. Unfortunately the forest had been cut over quite a bit however in time it should recover. We also found Magnolia campbellii and M. globosa, the latter not in leaf or flower yet. On the way down the east side we saw R.camelliiflorum, R. triflorum, R. grande and a superb outcrop of the large white scented flowers of R. edgeworthii. We also spotted the small white epiphytic orchid Coelogyne corymbosa.

Sun 15th May

From the Dragons Nest hotel we headed further east through Trongsa and on to Jakar. The road passes through some very interesting country. Starting from a low elevation of around 4000ft, we found Bombax ceiba trees in fruit. Then there was Albizia julibrissin in full flower. At around 6200ft/1900m near the village of Nobding some of the group made a very interesting find; a member of the Magnolia family, a tree with large purple flower buds opening to a creamy/light pink fleshy Magnolia type flower. I was not sure what it was until a week later I remebered something and believed it to be Tauluma hodgsonii.*2 Next to this there was also one specimen of Caesalpinia decapetala with a yellow pea like flower. Further along the road Agapetes serpens with its crimson hanging flowers was found on the road side. There was also a lovely floriferous Berberis species, probably B. aristata.

Our first pass of the day was the Pele la, (11,200ft/3420m), and on the way up we saw R. arboreum, R. keysii, R. kesangiae, R. falconeri and R. barbatum or R. argypeplum. R. camelliiflorum is always epiphytic and you have to look up into the tree canopy to find it. Unfortunately it was a little too early for it to be in flower. On the east side of the Pele La we found R. thomsonii, R. arboreum, R. lepidotum and the lovely yellow flowered R. campylocarpum as well as R. triflorum. We had a quick lunch at Chendebji and finished just before the thunderstorm and torrential downpour that followed. However I did find R. griffithianum in flower as well as Holboella latifolia, a vigorous climbing shrub.

After Trongsa we drove towards was the Yotong La (11250ft/3425m) where the same rhododendrons are found; namely R. arboreum, R. grande, R. kesangiae, R. cameliiflorum and on the east side of the pass, R. triflorum and R. hodgsonii. We also found Primula sikkimensis in flower and rosettes of p. capitata. It was very late and dark by the time we arrived in Jakar. We were all tired after the long drive.

Mon 16th May

First thing we went to Jambay Llakang (Bhutan’s oldest monastery). The place was packed with monks and villagers who were here for a festival and we were treated to a real insight of Bhutanese life. We then headed for the famous Kirjey monastery, well known as the burial place of the kings. Again, we had timed it right as there was a member of the royal family visiting, although we didn’t see anyone, we did see the ceremonial fires and decorations that were there for the occasion.

Late morning we drove up the long, hot Tang Chu valley heading for our destination, Ugyen Choling. Half way up the valley we stopped and had a picnic lunch in the brilliant sunshine. There were ground orchids, small dazzling blue gentians and purple asters all around. After lunch we started to walk further up the road and saw more brilliant Euphorbia griffithii and the hedgerow was full of Eleagnus parvifolia, quite spectacular in flower and foliage. We also saw Primula denticulata, with a more typical rounded head than P. erithrocarpa and two sub species of Primula sikkimmensis, 1, 2. After a small climb up the hill en route to Ugyen Choling we saw another of the lovely flowering Pyrus trees. Ugyen Choling is a fantastic place to stay at when you are in Bhutan. It is quite remote and has no electricity supply, so things are as they were in the old days (well nearly). Each room was heated with a wood burning stove and lit by torches. Luckily my room did not have a stove in it as, anyone who knows me understands that, I am always too hot and never feel the cold.

Tues 17th May

In the morning those who were going on the trek to the Rudong La prepared themselves for a three day trek. The weather was fine and we got off to a good start. We were trekking to an area called Phokphey today and there was a little confusion as to how far it was. Once underway the going seemed reasonably easy and we passed through farmland, bamboo meadow and forest. The bamboo meadows had some lovely dark red R. thomsonii and light pink R. wallichii. Through the steeper section in the Tsuga dumosa forest there was Primula tanneri subsp nepalensis, R. campylocarpum and R. arboreum as well as R. succothii. After a steep section I waited back for a while for the remainder of the party to catcg up suddenly there was an almighty thunderclap that terrified me as I was not expecting it. The rain started to pour down steadily and I thought, ”Here we go, this could be a wash out”. Much to my surprise after about another three quarters of an hour we had reached Phokphey and the camp was all set up awaiting our arrival. The campsite was set in a lovely bamboo meadow clearing in the forest. There were lots of rhododendrons surrounding us and lovely primulas on the ground. Then as if by magic the rain stopped as well. We had a well deserved lunch and then set about an afternoon’s botanising in the surrounding area.

The flora found in the area was as follows: R. succothii, R. hodgsonii, R. setosum, R. anthopogon, R. cinnabarinum subsp xanthocodon, R. wallichii, R. flinckii, R. bhutanense and R. campanulatum. Then Primula calderiana (Purple), P. tanneri subsp nepalensis and P. dickieana, Meconopsis paniculata and Cassiope fastigiata. The surrounding forest was Abies densa. It took us about 3 hours to go round the large bamboo meadow. The botanising was all I had hoped for and I could not wait for the following day’s trek to the Rudong La.

On returning back to camp, the staff had cut us a pile of wood for a fire so for the last few hours of the day we sat around the fire having a chat about the days events.

Wed 18th May

I woke bright and early ready for the day’s trek. The weather was looking good and I hoped it would stay that way. We had breakfast in a large dining tent that had been set up. All the comforts of home you know. After breakfast we set off and again there was some confusion over the journey length. It is quite hard to get an accurate estimate when you have never been there before. You also have to be cautious of what the guides say as they forget that they walk twice as fast as us. The walk to start with was following a path that was gently climbing through the dense Abies forest. There was the lovely dark mauve Primula calderiana everywhere and some large leaved species rhododendrons in flower, including the wine red R. hodgsonii and the lovely yellow R. wightii. This is the true species and not the poor plant that is commonly called R. wightii that is in cultivation. It is a very hard plant to grow as it suffers from root rot in cultivation. Funnily, every time you see it in the wild it is always growing in very damp places, the last thing you would think it likes. The path began to get a little steeper, then we broke out above the tree line. The hill sides were covered in R. wightii, R. flinckii and R. bhutanense. R. bhutanense which has pinky red trusses was not in flower yet. R. flinckii however was in flower starting off orangey in bud and fading to yellow very quickly, with a flower tube which is brown spotted inside. Another striking feature of this plant is the orangey brown fur (Indumentum) on the underside of the leaves. Quite a desirable plant which luckily grows well in cultivation. We also found some smaller rosettes of another Meconopsis species. We followed a path up the steeper hill side and after about an hour we arrived at the top of the Rudong La (13650/4160m). It was quite cold up there and there was still small patches of snow lingering, but it was dry and reasonably clear so we did get a good view of the surrounding countryside and the Himalaya to the North.

After lunch some of us started to go down the other side for a little way. I knew that there was possibly a new species or sub-species of Rhododendron called R. hodgsonii Aff. near here, but unfortunately time and energy did not allow us to go far enough down to find it. I did spot some large winter resting buds of a Primula species. I would have loved to seen them in flower. Maybe next time. We retraced our steps back over the pass and made our way back to the camp. It always amazes me that you can go back along the same track the other way and see some quite different things. There was all sorts of plants sprouting, orchids and a strange looking plant that I thought may be parasitic. It turned out to be called Soulea vaginata. By the time we got back to camp it was mid afternoon and time for a nice relax. Some of us decided that a spot of fire building was in order, that kept us busy until dusk.

I was in for a little surprise at the evening meal. To celebrate my daughter’s 13th birthday the camp staff had baked and iced a cake. They put a candle on it and we all sang happy birthday to her. She did forgive me for being away.

After our evening meal we were treated to some traditional Bhutanese dancing and singing, led by the chief herdsman. Once the initial shyness of these kind people was gone they gave us a fantastic evening’s entertainment around the fire. Before too long we were asked to join in and the dancing became somewhat livelier. Time to celebrate so I brought out the bottle of Bhutanese whisky and we all had a ‘nip’. It is in fact very good whisky and of course only a fraction of the price of the genuine article.

Thur 19th May

Today we retraced our steps back to Ugyen Choling. There had been quite a bit of rain during the night and some parts of the path were very slippery soft mud. I thought to myself, if it had been like this on the way up it would have been so much harder. I managed to get through the worst bit with only two slips into the mud. Another hazzard on the way down was the ponies, if you heard them coming your best bet was to get your self off the track, if possible higher up as well. Lower down the sun must have been shining more as the Cotoneaster microphyllus was covered in bloom and bees. The area was also covered with a good deep red R. thomsonii. When we arrived at Ugyen Choling it was still light so we took the opportunity to have a look around the museum. It is a great insight of how a rich Bhutanese family used to live. Then we carried on down the hill to the river where the bus and the drivers were waiting for us. We drove back down the long Tang Chu road and noticed the odd pink flower of Rosa macrophylla. At the road end we went a small walk down to the “Burning Lake”, a sacred place of worship to the Buddhists. When we arrived back at Jakar there was an inter-region archery competition being held. The sports field was full of all sorts of people young and old. The distance between the pizza sized targets is 147m . All the supporters line up along the line of fire or even behind the target. It’s an amazing spectacle, something that would certainly never happen here in the UK, on health and safety grounds.

That evening the meal in Jakar’s comfortable Wangdi Choling hotel was full of stories of what we had all been up to over the last few days. I think everyone was quite relieved that the hard bit of the tour was over.

Fri 20th May

After breakfast a few of us sat outside watching a flycatcher in a tree before departing for Jakar Dzong. These superb buildings never fail to impress and each has its own unique atmosphere. Then we went to visit Tamshing Goemba The men were set a challenge. In order to be prosperous in life one has to walk round the inside of this building (3 times) with a chain mail shawl on. It weighs a lot and the ladies took great delight in making us perform. Luckily we survived the ordeal and were said to be true men. Lastly no visit to the Bumthang area is complete without a visit to the Swiss cheese factory, where honey, cheese and spirits can be bought. The peach and apple brandy (good for lighting fires) was a bit rough for my palette, but the Conserve Royal Coronation whisky was fine.

After lunch we started to drive back to Trongsa. Going back to the Yatong La, (9,400ft/2860m), we stopped to look at some R. kesangiae and saw a farmer walking her yaks down the road. They are handsome, big animals, but ever since one charged me some years ago, I always give them a wide berth. We also found an attractive flowering tree, that I later found out is Clethra delavayi. As we neared Trongsa we spotted some attractive R. edgworthii and at long last R. dalhousiae ssp. rhabdotum even though it was through binoculars (we were to see much better in a few days).

Sat 21st May

We were going to take the road south to visit Kinga Rabten, the old palace of the second king. A few minutes drive out of Trongsa and I spotted lots of R. dalhousiae var. rhabdotum on the cliffs above the road. It is a real show stopper. On opening the flowers have a lime green trumpet with dark red strip on the outside of the tube. It quickly fades to a cream tube but the red stripe stays. There were masses of it on this short section of road. Further on we got out for a walk. Instantly we found all sorts of flowering trees and shrubs, including a nice pink Viburnum Sp (in fact two spp still un-named). Also a tree that I believe is a member of the Magnolia *3 family, with lovely cream flowers and lots of anthers. Below the road banking we found a Cardiocrinum giganteum in full flower; it also has a beautiful scent. There was also a small pink Corydalis Sp. and a spectacular Benthemidea capitata. (formerly Cornus capitata) When we got to Kinga Rabten we unfortunately could not find the caretaker so we had to make do with a look around from the outside. We had a cup of tea in the warm sunshine before turning back.

Going back along the road we stopped at the large cliffs where the little bird called a honeyguide can sometimes be seen. We saw plenty of the strange hanging bees’ nests, but no birds. We did see a young roller sitting in a tree a little later though. Further up we spotted a species of orchid called Vandopsis undulata growing at the roadside, then later a little pink orchid growing on a tree trunk, it was a Phalaenopsis taenialis. Just before our return to Trongsa we spotted some large brown monkeys in a tree. The bus stopped and they looked at us for a second before disappearing into the dense undergrowth. They were Assamese Macacque (Macaca assamensis). This had been a very interesting morning and I will certainly visit this stretch of road again.

In the afternoon we visited Trongsa Dzong. This must be one of the largest Dzongs in the country. Near the entrance I found a specimen of the orchid Dendrobium ochraceum ssp. fimbriatum. This is a lovely rich golden yellow orchid with a brown centre and quite scented. There was also a massive Cuppressus corneyana an endemic and sacred tree in Bhutan. The girth of this trunk took 10 people with arms outstretched to go all the way round it. We saw the door that Ludlow and Sheriff were pictured at on one of their "Marches" throughout the country. Inside we saw the music rooms and some monks making the very ornate butter statues.

Some members of the party were inordinately amused by the spectacle of a large white cockerel making uninhibited advances to a row of monks’ shoes neatly laid outside one of the chapels.

Sun 22nd May

Today we were heading back for Wangdi Phodrang. We were hosting an evening dinner (in the Dragons Nest Hotel, Wangdi Phodrang) in honour of a new school, the Gasilo Middle High School, which was making good progress in a remote part of the country. We had a long drive ahead of us, first back first over the Yotong La and then the Pele La and on to Wangdi. After leaving Trongsa, on the other side of the valley, we were again very lucky and spotted a group of Golden Langurs (Trachypithecus geei). I had wanted to see them for years and now another one of my dreams had been fulfilled. They are a lovely golden colour as the name suggests. What a lovely place Bhutan is. Some of the party managed to make a detour to the Phubjika valley, where the Black Neck cranes overwinter. I was pleased we had time to go there as I knew that we might see another Rhododendron. Rhododendron cilliatum was duly found although the pink/white flowers had withered long ago. I also showed the group an enormous Magnolia campbelii tree that grows right by the monastery in Ganty. We had a look around the valley then retraced our steps to the main road. Driving on we were looking for the area where the unknown Magnolia type trees were growing. (Tauluma hodgsonii) It is amazing how easily one can mistake exactly where you think something is. Their exact location kept us puzzled for quite a while. Finally we found the trees again and had a second look. We also found another large tree beside the road that had several orchid species growing on it including Dendrobium densiflora and D. ochraceum. Near Wangdi there were some large Bombax (probably Bombax malabarica) trees with their cotton wool like seed pods bursting.

By the time we got back to Wangdi there was only half an hour to get prepared for the evening meal. Michael looked pleased, or possibly relieved, to see us all in one piece. The children from the Gasilo school did some traditional dancing for us then the headmaster told us a little about the school and its aims. We did manage to dig in to our pockets and make a donation for the school to buy equipment. Then we had a fantastic meal with two children as guests at each table. By the end of the evening I for one was ready for bed, but the poor children had to sit in the back of a pickup truck and drive for two hours along a rough road to get back to school. At least they had a half day off in the morning.

Mon 23rd May

I was beginning to feel sad now as I knew our time in Bhutan was running out fast. Today we were driving back to Thimphu and over the last big pass, the Dochu La.

First thing we did today was walked up the hill to the small village of Rinchengang. Situated below Wangdi, this is a hot dry place that is inhabited by people of Indian origin. We went to the top of the village where the monastery is situated and were invited in to watch monks praying and playing their instruments. The paddy fields were being planted up and flooded at the same time. It looks like back breaking work and noticeably the ladies do it.

We then drove North to Punakha Dzong. This fantastic building is always an impressive sight, especially when the Jacaranda trees are out in flower. The last time I was there was in 2002 and a lot of it was under renovation. This time the renovation was complete, the colours on the building were so vivid. One of the monks offered us some yak butter tea. Never one to give up a free cuppa, we sat and had a chat in the hot morning sun. Then we had a picnic lunch on the way back to the main road, at the river confluence great views of the dzong are had. On the road leading up to the Dochu La things seem to have grown in the week since we were there last. The R. edgeworthii was even better than what we had seen before and I spotted a R. lindleyii growing epiphytically in the trees. I had hoped to see a lot more of this plant. It is similar to R. dalhousiae except it has a white trumpet with a yellow throat and is very scented. On one corner we found a magnificent specimen of Ariseama griffithii growing amongst the vegetation. Then on the Thimphu side (West) of the Dochu La I spotted the tiny pink orchids I had been searching for, Pleione hookeriana, a lovely, delicate little orchid that grows on the moss covered branches of trees. Unfortunately one had to use binoculars to see it close up.

Back in Thimphu we did our last afternoon shopping. I tripped on a kerb, scraped my leg and staved my thumb. Thank goodness it happened now and not before. I had arranged for botanist, Jessica Beaghen to join us for our evening meal. It was nice to meet her and tell her our stories of what we had seen. She even suggested some names for our unidentified plants. In the morning we were going to visit the botanical gardens, so we had an early night.

Tues 24th May

This morning we set off for the botanical gardens. Firstly we had a meeting with the Director of the gardens, Mr Ugyen Tsewang PhD. He was very welcoming and answered our many questions regarding Bhutan and its fragile environment.

We were then taken to the seed bank where there is a major program underway to try to preserve the Flora of Bhutan by cold storing seed of all the species found in the country. This way the natural flora can be preserved and if anything dire happens in the future, there is a backup system in place. The laboratories are also carrying out a program of selection in order to produce the best crops available for yield and quality. This way they can encourage farmers to grow only the best suited crops for their areas. The government are actively encouraging local farmers to become involved in the project in the hope it will further involve and educate the people across the country.

We followed this with a visit to the herbarium. For me, this was the most interesting building and I would have loved to have spent hours, no weeks, there. We were shown around by a young lady Rinchen Yangzom. She helped us to try and identify our unknown Magnolia Sp. (Tauluma hodgsonii) and some rhododendrons.

Lastly we went for a look around the garden, including a very interesting talk and look in the orchid house. We also had a look in the polytunnels (that the society helped re-cover) to see how they were being used. This time they were full of plants and being well utilised. It was good to see all our hard fund raising being put to good use.

Then I had an interview with one of the Kuensel reporters, giving Karma Choden an in-depth description about our tour, rhododendrons and the Bhutan Society of the UK. Read the article

Wed 25th May

We left early for Paro and were going to trek up to the Tiger’s Nest . We had a special permit allowing us entry into the monastery. The walk was hot and dry. Luckily the tea room half way up served refreshments, including a nice bottle of beer. The path is a bit easier after the tea house and before long we found ourselves at the doorway of this fantastic building. It was only officially re-opened a few week previously after the fire some years ago. The building did not disappoint. The views of the valley from the viewpoint were breathtaking. Looking through binoculars I saw the pink flowers of Pleione hookeriana growing out of the cliff face. Every time I come to Taksang I have looked for R. edgeworthii as Ludlow and Sheriff reported it growing in the area. I have never found any trace of it until this time. I didn’t actually find any growing plant but there was lots of it in the tea house as cut flowers. We asked the man where he got it from, he said he got it from further up the hill. We did look around the area but still no plants. I can at least confirm that it does grow in that area. Another plant that I saw some old stems of was a little lillium Sp, possibly L. nanum. It was too early to see the new shoots but once the monsoon begins this little dark red/pink lily will be in flower.

That evening we were staying at the Dechen cottages for the last evening. The new owner was an Indian man and the evening meal was very good indeed. We all had an interesting chat and said our farewells to one another.

Thur 26th May

The last morning is always a sad day for me, as I never know when I will get the chance to return. We were at the airport in good time for the early flight. The visibility was great and those on the right side of the plane had fantastic views of all the big mountains, from Jomolhari as we climbed out of the valley, and then all too quickly, Kanchenjunga, Makalu and the Everest massif. Those who stayed on the plane to Delhi later reported they had also had amazing views of Manaslu, the Annapurna range and Dhaulagiri before the plane turned south.

We arrived at the Dwarikas hotel by mid-morning. A group of us went out sightseeing around Durbar Square as well as shopping for a few hours. Then we went back to the hotel for lunch and a siesta. In the evening we had a traditional 9 course Nepalese meal, that was very nice. Then an early bed before tomorrow’s flight home.

Notes

• *1 The Euphorbia still remains unknown although seems to be similar to E. stracheyi

• *2 Talauma hodgsonii has been transferred to Magnolia hodgsonii by H. Keng in Gard. Bull. Singapore 31 (2): 129 (1978). According to the World Checklist & Bibliography of Magnoliaceae in 1996 (published by Kew) and made it a synonym of Magnolia liliifera var. obovata.

• *3 Magnolia cathcartii (it has been previously called Alcimandra cathcartii (Recorded as this in the Flora of Bhutan Volumes) and Michelia cathcartii).

A special mention of thanks must go to E. Aitken (R.B.G.E)., A Chambers, D. B. Gurung, D Figlar and others who have helped with the naming of the plants found.

If you require any more information about the trek or the plants found then please contact me and I will help. email; matthew.heasman@virgin.net