Points worthy of note.

Elevation vs draw length.

As you elevate the bow to aim at a target further away your draw length will shorten. If you shoot with a clicker you will notice more dificulty drawing past the click. For those of us who practise less than 200 arrows a day this can be an advantage. We are fresher at the first (longest) distance and more able to draw the greater length. As the round progresses we tire but the target distances and therefore the draw length we have to pull become less. In a FITA the last distance is 30 meters and the archer who shoots to the same clicker point will be drawing up to half an inch less length than he was at 90 meters.

So now we think about this. What do we do? Leave well alone?

We can do just that. Now we realise why we have to draw further back from our anchor point at the longer distances it won't bother us. When you shoot indoors at 18-25 meters I might even recommend that you move the clicker a quarter inch further in to stop your style from being cramped by the short draw length requirement.

But do the top shooters do anything different? Some of them do.

By moving your hips sideways; toward the target, then tilting your body up to the correct attitude you can keep your draw length constant. A tall archer shooting indoors would slide his hips away from the target and tilt downward.

Here's how it's done.

Raise the bow to form a T with your arms.
Move your hips; toward the target if the distance is long.
Tilt your whole upper body until the bowsight is on the target.
Draw.
Continue with the shot as normal.

The reason that you must move and tilt from the hips is to keep your centre of gravity constant. The 'solidity' of your stance would be lost if you simply leaned back. The movement is not great, others may not notice it. It feels as though you 'slide' up (or down) to the target.

Final warning. To include this technique into your routine will take many hours and hundreds of shots to perfect. If you are, or intend to become a county/country level archer then by all means experiment with this manouver. If you cannot put the time in then keep your routine as simple as possible to better duplicate every shot.

What sight effects where to focus.

When you aim what do you look at? The target or the sight?

It is important to focus on something while we aim. If you look at the sight then the target is out of focus and blury, if we look at the target then the sight becomes blury.

When I started archery I was told to experiment with both points of focus and to see which I prefered. I, like most people, chose to look at the target and have a blury sight. The other way around seemed awkward and the target was difficult to see. The sight I was given to use was a ring, like most people's.

So what's the point?

It's impossible to focus on a ring sight and have any chance of seeing where the target is because so much of it is obscured by the ring. Plus; a ring has no definable point to look at.

If you really want to try shooting while focusing on the sight then you must use a pin. A pin gives you a point to look at and obsures very little of the target beyond.

Only then can we discuss the pros and cons of the two aiming methods.

Focus on the target.: We're looking at what we want to hit and the target if framed by the ring. It is easier to 'travel the line' when our thoughts are beyond the bow - we can be in touch with the gold. Also, it is a simple matter to flick our eyes down to check that we are shooting at the correct tournament target number.
Focus on the sight pin.: We're centring the pin head over the gold of the target. With our vision focused within the confines of the bow it is easier to flick our eyes down to check; clicker position, draw length or (on a compound) bubble level. Also, the string is easier to see and line up against the head of the pin.

Final note: I dislike a ring that has a pin in it. While focused on the pin the ring will obsure too much of the target. While focused on the target the tiny pin makes us too conscious of the exact sight position and tends to make us over compensate for tiny drifts off of the gold. A pin on its own will have a largish; ~2-3mm round red painted head.