The Sugar Loaf starting from Fforest Coal Pit This path starts at the car park 1km south of Fforest Coal Pit. I have chosen to descend rather than ascend the north face of the Sugar Loaf so that the views of the Black Mountains can be enjoyed. It is a very scenic and varied route which takes in farmland, woods and moors. 1. Leave Abergavenny going north on the "Old Hereford Road" (by the Baptist church opposite the war memorial). Drive past King Henry School on your left and 2km further, at Pantygelli (garage and pub), turn left. This narrow road passes Great Bettws Farm after 1.5 km. The car park is a bit under 1km further, on the left. 2. At the rear of the car park a path leads to a gate. Go through the gate and turn immediately left to follow the stone wall, climbing gently. When the path divides follow the left hand path which contours to the farm (Blaenawey). The path continues straight past the right side of the barn along a walled (rather muddy) track until a stream is crossed and the track turns left into a field. 3. Cross the field diagonally right to the stile (not the gate that is straight ahead). Cross this and continue diagonally across this field and the next until a field is reached bounded by a wood on its SW. Head diagonally towards and enter the wood, crossing the stream where a path joins from the east. In the wood keep left, do not be tempted to take the path which curves to the right, to find the stile. Cross the stile and walk towards the house. Follow the track which starts by the right side of this house and leads SE to a junction of several paths. Turn sharp right and walk up the slight rise onto the open moor. From here an obvious path can be seen ascending the east ridge of the Sugar Loaf, although its not the one we will take. 4. Continue along the broad path towards the corner of a wood where there is a gate and stile. A National Trust sign (lying down) states that this is "Parc Lodge". Cross the stile and take the right hand fork which contours through pleasant, open woodland, then a field, to a gate. 5. Go through the gate to a junction of paths and turn right taking the broad path that ascends the SE ridge of the Sugar Loaf. If there is a North wind, take shelter below the summit rocks and enjoy a "cuppa" before walking up to the trig point. This is the main path that leads from Abergavenny, up the Rholben, then the Sugar Loaf. 6. Once at the summit, enjoy the panoramic views before taking the path, steeply at first, down the north face to join the main path leading NE. Follow this main path for about 1km to where it joins another main path at a stone wall. 7. Follow the path down beside this stone wall as it swings right then left to bring you back to the car park. To reach the small car park at the start of this route leave Abergavenny by the A40 towards Brecon and turn right up Chapel Road just before the roundabout (the Old Station Surgery is on the corner). Chapel Road swings round to the right and turns into a country lane that becomes tree canopied and climbs a steep hill. When the trees clear, take the first turning on the left, between a house and farm, and continue keeping left at a small junction to just before the end of the road where there is a small car park surrounded by conifers. A gate and elevated cottage is just beyond. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- The Sugar Loaf starting from St Mary's Vale car park 1 Take the path that goes in front of the cottage and leads downhill to a ford and walkway across the Nant (stream) Iago. Cross the walkway and follow the leaf strewn track beside the stream for 400m where another track crosses and fords the stream. Turn sharp left up this track and enjoy the view through the beech trees. After the track levels out it passes Pen-yr-heol farm and just before it joins the road to the Sugar Loaf car park there is a stony track turning off sharply right. 2. Follow this track as it climbs steeply through a wood of stunted oak trees for nearly 1km keeping right at the fork just before the wood ends. Continue contouring on this path until you again reach the Nant Iago, near its source. 3. Cross the stream and ascend the path that climbs steeply and directly to the summit. 4. Enjoy the panoramic views from the trig point: the Black Mountains to the North, the Brecon Beacons to the West, the Blorenge to the South, Skirrid (Ysgyryd) Fawr and Fach (and the Forest of Dean beyond) to the East. To descend, take the path from the east end of the summit that leads SSE towards the Rholben. 5. Continue following this path as it levels out and crosses the track that traverses the southern slopes of the Sugar Loaf then 250m further on take the right hand fork that leads away from the stone wall and the main Rholben path. 6. Follow this path as it descends attractively past the occasional tree and then follows the boundary of the Vale's wooded slopes. Looking through the trees Pen-yr-heol farm can be seen below, with the Blorenge in the distance. Almost too quickly the path reaches the road and the car park. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- The Sugar Loaf from the Sugar Loaf car park This is the shortest and, because you miss the contrasts between the open moorland and the wooded vales of other paths, in many ways the least satisfactory route to the top of the Sugar Loaf. If you are leaving Abergavenny on the A40 towards Brecon, take the first turning on the right after Nevill Hall Hospital and drive up narrow lanes taking two left turns until you cross the cattle grid. Here you take the steepest option which is the road leading to the Sugar Loaf Car Park and View Point. 1. Follow the broad path (N) from the car park (follow the crowds on a summer Sunday afternoon) and soon the summit will come into view. 2. As you continue, the path goes towards a stone wall on your left. When you reach the corner of the wall bear left and follow the main path until a smaller path leads off to the right. Follow this (slightly down-hill) cross another path and then soon begin ascending the steepening path and final rough, zig-zag steps to the summit. 3. Enjoy the panoramic views from the trig point: the Black Mountains to the North, the Brecon Beacons to the West, the Blorenge to the South, Skirrid (Ysgyryd) Fawr and Fach (and the Forest of Dean beyond) to the East. Return by taking the South-west path sloping down from the summit. This eventually curves round to a South-easterly direction and meets the path you ascended on. 4. To go directly back to the car park turn right here. If you miss the turn (easy to do) just take any path to the right and quite soon you will reach the road. If you come to the stone wall too soon you have not curved round enough, so follow the wall Eastwards (left) until you reach the corner and the main path to the car park. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- The Sugar Loaf starting from Pyscodlin Farm The start of this walk is at the layby opposite Pyscodlin Farm on the A40 about 3km west of Abergavenny centre. Pyscodlin Farm is a convenient camping and caravan site. 1. Leave the layby by the gate at its western end and follow the bridleway (which is shared by a small stream if it has been raining) diagonally left up the field. Go through the gate to enter a mixed wood and continue past some huge boulders. The map shows the bridleway winding up the hill and meeting another path but if you take the obvious way you will probably miss the point where the bridleway starts to climb. This is not a problem for you can turn right at the junction further on and climb the same path that the bridleway meets. Either way will bring you to a stile which you should cross into a field. Bear left as you cross the field and reaching the top of a gentle slope you will see Pine Grove Farm below. Leave the field through the gate by the farm and turn left up the road which passes through the farm gates and continues NW climbing gently and unfenced until it enters a fir wood and rapidly steepens. Pass through the gate and continue to the cross roads where a right turn brings you to Pen-y-graig farm. 2. Continue along the once again unfenced road with its sweeping views south to the Blorenge as it curves round to Llyweddrog Farm. Go through the gate and turn left leaving the road that leads to the Sugar Loaf car park. 3. Follow the track that leads besides a stone wall until you reach the corner and junction of paths. Bear left here and after 200m take the right fork that leaves the main track. This path descends slightly, crosses another main path and descends a bit more before it starts to climb towards the Sugar Loaf summit. At the next junction decide whether to climb straight on to the summit or turn right and enjoy the views while contouring to meet the path that rises from the Rholben and St Mary's Vale. If you climb straight on, leave the summit by its eastern end and take the SE path that leads to the Rholben. 4. If you contour you will reach a junction with the same Rholben-Sugar Loaf summit path. Turn right (south) down the Rholben path but 250m further on take the right hand fork that leads away from the stone wall towards St Mary's Vale. 5. Follow this path as it descends past an occasional tree to where it meets a well defined track, turn right (west) up this track for 250 metres to a covered tank or well. Turn left (SW) here and in about 50m you will reach a post that marks a section of the National Park's St Mary's Vale walk. Cross the small stream and take the "permitted path" slanting down the side of the Vale to the ford across the Nant Iago, avoiding the turn that leads to a small grassy clearing that, if allowed, would make a lovely camp site. Cross the nant without getting your feet wet and continue up the track enjoying the view through the beech trees. 6. After the track levels out it passes Pen-yr-heol farm and joins the road to the Sugar Loaf car park. Cross over and take the lane going west. There is a well positioned bench with an excellent view of Abergavenny here. Continue along the lane for about 600m to a road junction and footpath sign. Take the path down a flight of concrete steps, past a small chapel (a Sunday service is held here once a month), and over the stile. 7. Go steeply down the field towards the pylon, pass through the gate to its left and continue steeply down to a concealed stile. Cross the stile and continue down the path between a hedge and wire fence to reach the A40 road. Turn right and reach the layby in 500m. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- The Sugar Loaf from Glangrwyney Glangrwyney is 6km west of Abergavenny on the A40. It is possible to park in the layby before the bridge if you plan to walk the long circuit. For the shorter circuit there is very limited parking in Llangenny by the church. To reach this, turn right (if coming from Abergavenny) just past the 30mph sign and continue until you reach a narrow bridge. Turn right after crossing the bridge and the church and village hall are 200m further on. 1. (The long circuit) Walk up the lane beside the recreation field for 250m then climb the stile into the field on the left and follow the path through the meadow. Cross into the next field and walk right beside the Grwyne Fawr for 100m before heading for the stile in the corner, past a house. Turn left along the lane for 100m, cross the stone bridge and then turn right immediately, going over a stile below a huge tree with strikingly twisted limbs and bark. 2. Follow the stream passing a weir and salmon leap before passing through a farm. Here on your left is a prehistoric standing stone. At the end of the farm drive turn right past the Dragon's Head Inn. 3. Start of the shorter circuit) Cross the picturesque Llangenny bridge and turn left. A few metres up the road a footpath sign shows where you cross the stone wall to continue following the Grywne Fawr northwards. Here, especially on a sunny day in early spring, the stream is magical as the low sun strikes the water bubbling over the rocks. Walk quietly and look carefully at the rocks and you will more than likely see a dipper. Continue along the stream bank until you reach the second footbridge. 4. From here follow the more clearly marked path ENE climbing beside a fence to a corner. Head across the field towards a post with a path marker and then to a stile before a small copse. (The other path heads SE first to Ty-draw and then to the road. This looks a sensible direction but is a much inferior choice.) Cross the stile and follow the marked path uphill and then slightly downhill to a gate. Go through this gate and a fantastic view across the valley to Table Mountain and Pen Cerrig-calch suddenly opens out with Llanbedr nestling at the junction of the Grywne Fawr and Grwyne Fechan streams. Beyond Llanbedr rises the ridge to Pen y Gadair Fawr (seen as a sharply outlined but flattened peak) and the shapeless summit of Waun Fach, highest point in the Black Mountains. The next gate leads to a delightful farmhouse. The path goes in front of the house and then turns right to the road. 5. Turn right and follow the road for 400m to a junction where you turn left, up the hill. Walk past one farm (with a tempting stile opposite) to the next (Pengilfach) where a sign points you left to the Sugar Loaf path. Follow the well marked track through a wood of fir trees, go through a couple of gates and suddenly you are out on the open slopes of the mountain. 6. You must now choose whether to climb the long ridge that is before you to the summit or to contour right, along the stone boundary wall, enjoying the view along the Usk Valley with the distant peaks of the Brecon Beacons just visible. 7. If you choose the summit follow the crest of the ridge and after some time the rocky crest will come into view. On reaching the rocks try keeping to the highest point and imagine you are on a more mountainous peak! 8. To descend follow the diagonal path from the summit down the SW ridge until you meet the track that contours the southern slopes. Turning right here brings you to the forestry plantation. Descend into the dip, cross the stream, and turn left into Cwm Gwenffrwd following the path that leads down the right side of the valley. 9. Continue down this path, which eventually becomes a cart track, to the road. Turn left onto the road and follow this to the T-junction. Turn left again to quickly reach the A40 at Glangrwyney. 7a. The shorter circuit) Follow the boundary wall to the second well marked path on your right. Go through the gate and follow the ancient, once walled path as it winds first SW then NW to reach Pen-twyn farm. Turn right along the drive, through a gate and past a house to where a bridleway sign points through a gate and across a field. Cross the field diagonally right to reach a gate onto the road which leads downhill to Llangenny. (The first well marked path is more direct, I prefer the second.) ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Skirrid Fawr Route 1. The start of this route is at a layby on the B4521 about 4km from the centre of Abergavenny. Reach this by leaving Abergavenny on the B4521 as if driving to meet the A465 on the way to Hereford but turn right 500m north of the town's traffic lights, just on the other side of the bridge over the old railway line. Continue along this road as it winds under the A465 and then passes Maindiff Court Hospital (where Rudolph Hess was held after his capture during World War 2). The layby is about 2km beyond the hospital, on the left. 1. From the layby take the path accross the field towards the Skirrid. The path then winds up through delightful woodland until it reaches a gate in the stone wall at the top of the wood. Go through the gate and turn right. (Fifteen years ago when I first walked the route I remember this path was rather dark and enclosed by conifers. It was then "devastated" by contractors taking out many of the conifers but it has now recovered leaving an open broad-leaved wood, in spring carpeted with wood anenomes, celendine, and violets.) 2. After about 300m follow the path that forks sharply left leaving the other to continue contouring around the Skirrid. The path climbs for about 200m (wooden steps have recently been added to the bottom of this steep and often muddy section and a nicely done stone "pavement" to the top section). After the "pavement" the path swings steeply right and ascends the southern spur of the mountain to reach the 1km long ridge which gently rising to the summit. The ridge is narrow in places and has some small rocky outcrops which the paths winds between. To the left (west) lies the Sugar Loaf and the Black Mountains whilst to the right rolling farmland stretches far into the distance. 3. Just in front of the summit trig point two upright stones and a hollow mark the site of St Michael's Chapel which is believed to have been in existence at the end of the 17th Century but had disappeared by the 19th apart from the remains visible today. 4. Return to the car park by retracing your steps. Route 2. Follow Route 1. to the summit then descend NW down a steep slope to the path that contours around the mountain. Turn left and follow the undulating, boulder-strewn path between the Skirrid's western "cliffs" and a hill on your right (produced by an ancient great landslip). Continue through woodland until you reach the stone wall. Follow this to the gate and return down-hill to the car park. In the evening I would suggest doing this route in reverse, maximising your enjoyment of the sun and perhaps watching the sunset from the ridge. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Clydach Gorge Route 1. (Clydach Ironworks etc.) 1. Carefully cross the A465 and go through the gate onto what was the Merthyr to Govilon Turnpike road of 1812-13. Turn left towards Merthyr and after 500m take the sharp right turn up hill. Go straight across at the cross-roads (previously the Clydach Railroad of 1794), and just past some houses on the left there is a stile. Cross the stile, climb the bank and follow the stream but keeping about 20m to its right until you reach a stone wall with a gate in the corner. Go through the gate and turn left (through the stream sometimes or rather muddy at others!) and take the walled track to the farm. Do not go into the farm because the path turns to the right (west) across a clearly way-marked stile. Follow the marked path around the perimeter of the field and continue south into the next field. 2. Ahead is a small steep-sided hill with a rather strange "pillar" (known as "Tom Thumb"?) on top. This hill may have been an iron-age fort at one time (Chris Barber-"Exploring Gwent") but if so it appears to have been quarried since (and the pillar left as a memorial?). 3. Either climb the hill directly (steep) to the pillar or more easily by taking the track to the right then crossing to the pillar. This area is also referred to as Craig y Gaer. At the pillar take time to enjoy the view and identify the landmarks on the other side of the gorge. 4. Leave the pillar and join or rejoin the path along the west side of the workings and continue south crossing a stile into an open grassy area. The map shows the path going to join the road but instead keep left, walking parallel to the road and below it for about 250m to where it becomes more bushy. Here you will find a gate leading to a path which descends past old limestone quarries to the old Blackrock road at the (now closed) Drum and Monkey Inn. Some of this path is a bit overgrown and it resembles a stream bed in places but it is nevertheless perfectly navigable.Look across the gorge towards Gellifelen. 5. Follow the road up the gorge for just over 1km, passing the old Blackrock quarry (now a landfill site) on your right and a National Rivers Authority depot on your left until just past the water treatment (sewage works) also on your left, where there is a way-marked path descending to the main road below. In the trees the path zig-zags first to the left and then to the right. The route now crosses to the other side of the gorge but you may wish to visit the waterfall (more impressive after rain) about 250m further up the gorge. To do so follow the metalled path parallel to the main road until you reach an overhead pipe. You can reach the foot of the waterfall by crossing the wooden fence beside one of the pipe supports. Unfortunately the area may be somewhat spoilt by rubbish. 6. Cross the "Heads of the Valley" road by the underpass and take the path that climbs gently left through part of what are described as "some of the finest native beechwoods in the West of Britain". These woods in Cwm Clydach are spectacularly beautiful in autumn. At the top of the path, after it has curved to the right and you have crossed through a gate, you will meet the path of the steam-hauled, standard gauge Merthyr, Tredegar and Abergavenny Railway of 1862 (closed in 1958). The railway line follows the path of Bailey's Tramroad of 1821 except where tunnels have been bored because the tramroad turns were too sharp for the railway. (The tramroad originally ran from Crawshay Bailey's ironworks at Nantyglo to Govilon Wharf on the Brecknock & Abergavenny Canal.) The route is east along this old railway line but although it looks as if you can pass through a very unusual kissing gate in front of the cottage there is no right of way. Instead, follow the way-marked path behind the cottage passing an old lime-kiln and join the railway track after about 150m. 7. Continue east along the old railway track past the remains of Gellifelen station until you reach the entrances to the twin Gellifelen tunnels. The railway was originally single track but it was doubled in 1877. If you have a reliable torch it is possible to walk through the LEFT tunnel - at your own risk, of course! The exit from the right tunnel is blocked-in apart from a smallish exit hole so I have never tried it. The tunnel is about 300m long, curved, very dark, and surprisingly clear of debris. If you don't want to walk through the tunnel take the track (formerly Bailey's Tramroad) that goes off to the left and contours around the hill, passing the path that descends to Devil's Bridge and some cottages. The track then becomes rather narrow and rocky before you reach the eastern portals of the tunnels. 8. The route continues along the old railway, crossing Cwm Llam-march by way of embankments and an arched viaduct and passing round the left side of a modern iron gate that now prevents vehicular access to the track. Just after the gate a road is joined where there was once a level-crossing. This road follows the path of the Llam-march railroad of 1795. Carry along the road for about 100m to where a path slopes diagonally down through the woods and nature reserve. This path was one of two inclines built in 1811 to supplement the Llam-march railroad for conveying raw materials to Clydach Ironworks. On the right side of the road the railway continues now elevated on a series of arches. The single open arch is the access to Llanelly Quarry that once provided lime needed by Clydach Ironworks for flux, also burnt lime for agricultural purposes and mortar, and more recently, roadstone. Just through the arch on the right are the remains of a double lime-kiln. 9. Leave the road and take the path down through the woods bearing right at the bottom and passing behind houses of the Danycoed estate. When you reach the road ignore the footpath that leads left to the footbridge over the A465, instead turn right through the estate passing a number of small bungalows built on a massive dump of slag from the ironworks. This dump fills the whole river valley with the river being taken in a culvert beneath. Follow the road beside the river far below to a path which descends the incline beside the playing field. At the foot of the incline lies the remains of Clydach Ironworks. 10. Leave the Ironworks, cross the iron bridge dated 1824, turn right and walk along the river for 70m before re-crossing the river by a stone bridge to join the road at the picnic site and so complete the route. ------------------------------------------------------------------ Clydach Gorge Routes 2 & 2a (Clydach Camp etc.) The path starts at the bottom of Station Road, Clydach. This is the left-hand turning (going towards Merthyr Tydfil) off the Heads of the Valley Road (A465) 1.5km after the turning to Gilwern and just past the Lion pub on the right. You can either park in the first lay-by just after you turn into Station Road, and where the route starts, or a bit further on where there is a another lay-by and pleasant picnic site complete with picnic benches and bring-your-own-fuel barbeques. 1.Across Station Road from the first lay-by, there is a stile. Climb this and follow the path that leads steeply uphill. At a marker post you meet and follow another path that climbs less steeply to a second post just before a broken-down stone wall. Turn left and follow this wall, climbing steeply again, to a stile which is crossed to a road. Turn right, then left at the first junction. Follow the road uphill until about 50m past the old railway line (Private) there is a footpath on the right. Take this pleasant path between stone walls in the same direction as the railway, eventually turning sharply uphill, through a gate, and then out to a track at the base of the "cliff". 2.Turn right and follow this path, narrow in places, until it arrives at the foot of Clydach Limeworks and Cwm Quarry (the larger quarry further along the path). Bailey's tramroad wound down the side of the valley, here following the line of the later railway, in front of the quarries but these were not established until limestone was needed to build the railway viaduct and to line the tunnel. The two main kilns with their double draw-arches were built about 1877 at the time the railway was doubled to twin-track. Stairs between the kilns can be ascended but there is a risk of slipping on debris and of further falls of debris. To the right of these kilns was a ball mill for making ground lime (holding down bolts for its engines in front) and further to the right are remains of concrete aggregate bins erected in the 1930s. These were fed from a crusher that took stone from Cwm Quarry which was opened in the 1920s. Two older limekilns are further along with a brake-house some way above and the evidence of old inclines can be seen traversing the site. 3.Before climbing up to the viaduct you can investigate the tunnel that takes Nant Dyar under the tall arches of the viaduct. It is possible if the water is not too high (great care needed as slippery) to get down to where the stream enters the tunnel. Where the Dyar leaves the tunnel can be seen from under the viaduct. Climb the bank to the top of the viaduct and the old Clydach station is obvious from its platforms. The building by the end of the viaduct was the Station Hotel. Cross a stile and take the path that starts immediately above the station and climbs diagonally past tall electricity pylons leading to a rather typical Welsh hill-farm. The next part of the walk is interesting but rather sad owing to the general dereliction and copious refuse strewn around what was at one time an attractive moorland area cut by fast flowing streams in deep rocky gullies. Follow the track/road through the farm and on to the crossroads in Waunllapria. 4.Turn right and about 150m further on turn left beside a small stream. Cross this by the wooden footbridge and continue slightly downhill to Clydach Camp, possibly an Iron Age site but definitely a quarry later. Follow the path round until you reach the curtain of limestone left by the quarrymen. Here there is an excellent view across the valley and a fine picnic spot. 5. (Route 2a) A narrow path leads Westwards in front of this curtain before descending an incline, retained by a massive wall, that probably conveyed limestone to Clydach Ironworks. Where the incline levels out, under some trees, there are some remaining stone sleepers. These can be identified by the hole where the rails were nailed. The incline has been cut into by Llanelly Quarry and the path becomes slightly difficult as you cross a gully and climb up to enter the quarry. Walk through the quarry past a double lime-kiln situated just before an arch that leads under the Merthyr, Tredegar & Abergavenny railway to the road. Cross the road and descend the good path (the incline of 1811) to a bridge. Instead of crossing the bridge turn left (upstream) along the R. Clydach for about 250m to a fine waterfall. Re-trace your steps to the bridge and continue towards Daren-felen (see route 1.) A short diversion across the "Heads of the Valley" road by a footbridge brings you into Cheltenham where the path of the Clydach Railroad crosses what was the Merthyr-Govilon Turnpike road of 1812-13. A splash of colour is provided by a gable-end covered with old enamelled signs. Go back across the road and return to where your car is parked. 6. (Route 2.) Take the path that descends NE from Clydach Camp to the road and follow this downhill until just past the old chapel. Take the small road that leads back to the viaduct from where a path leads down, beside the stream, into Clydach and thence back to your car passing an amazing garden on the way.