Pisciadu Climbing path
(Via Ferrata Brigata Tridentina)
A superb climb on very good steep rock in excitingly exposed positions but very well protected. Justifiably very popular so an early start is advised to beat the rush. Many seemed to haul themselves up by the wire rope and miss the enjoyment of finding excellent holds.
Start about 2.5km downhill from Grodner Joch at the large car park from which the first rock step is quickly reached. Arrive at the Pisciadu hut at the top of the climb in about 3hrs.
Descend by heading East from the hut on path (676) join path (651) and descend steeply South before branching West to regain path (676) back to the car park. This makes a truly excellent round trip!
Via Ferrata Barbara
(shown as Via Ferrata Cengia Matia on map)
This is an excellent short rest-day excursion. The route is technically very easy. It is protected in part by wire ropes and leads to a spectacular waterfall.
Leaving Cortina on the Toblach road, park at a small car park on the bend (LHS going North) about 3km North of Hotel Fiames. Take the short path leading down to the Rio di Fanes and follow this West on path (10) for about 2km. On the way cross the Rio Travenanzes and look down spectacularly into the gorge below.
The start is marked by a plaque, follow the path to the edge of the ravine then round behind the waterfall before descending an earthy groove which leads eventually to the bottom of the gorge. Descend the gorge some way until the waterfall again comes into view. Cross the torrent by a narrow gangway and ascend the rock wall on the other side.
Col Rosa 2166m Via Ettore Bovero
First class rock and well protected, exposed climbing. Use the wire rope for self-belaying and the rock for great "V.diff" climbing! Should not be missed - this route's only fault is its comparative shortness (about 1.5hrs actual climbing). It was quite busy when we were there.
Park outside Camping Olimpia about 3km N from the centre of Cortina off the Toblach road.
The climbing was so enjoyable the only pic I have is a snap of us at the summit.
A torch is essential for this route as it starts by ascending through an 800m long war-time tunnel. We found the Via Lipella to be a real mountaineering route, it also presented some route finding problems. Some of the rock is less than three-star quality but the position, feeling of isolation, and awesome rock scenery makes this an excellent route. We did not attempt the summit of Tofana di Rozes - it was shrouded in mist, there had been recent snow (we had no axes with us), and the weather forecast was still stormy. The alternative - hot coffee and pasta at the R. Giussiani was just too appealing!
There is a large car park at R. Dibona. Start from here by ascending Westwards to meet path (404). Continue along this to the obvious start of the route - rungs and an old ladder leading to the tunnel entrance.
Leaving the tunnel the scree slopes leading to the first protection were covered in snow. We had some problems finding the way at the top of some vertical (airy) pitches where there was no wire rope to follow but we found no unprotected sections where the route was at all difficult and at the top of vertical sections we usually moved left. The point where you choose between taking the summit route and the alternative to Tre Dita and the R. Giussiani is clearly and unmissably marked. From R. Giussiani there is a straightforward path down to the car park at R.Dibona.
Standing near Tre Dita
This route can hardly be classed as a via ferrata - there is but one short ladder. Its main interest is the extensive war-time fortifications that stretch to the peak. You can park at Passo Falzarego or Passo di Valparola.
"Beware the first Sunday in July - the 'Tour of the Dolomites' cycle race makes driving almost impossible. We were on our way to the Pisciadu route in the Sella Group but getting stuck at Falzarego, on a cold and windy day, we spent some time climbing the Sasso di Stria imagining the hardships experienced by the troops who held this position."
This route makes a pleasant half-day outing, there is only a very short section of wire rope to climb. We chose it as a short introductory route for the afternoon following our arrival in the Dolomites. The climb (400m) from the road through pine-woods to the Refugio at Cinque Tori is very enjoyable. (If you prefer to drive there is a car park at the Refugio which is accessed by a steep little road from Ponte di Ru Bianco. It was very crowded on Sunday afternoon.) The path (439) starts at the same place but actually climbs directly rather than following the road.
From the Refugio a wide road (439) climbs past the famous climbing tower of Cinque Torre and R. Scoiattoli to R. Averau. A waymarked path leads to the rocks and the start of the climb. There is a short wire rope leading to a vertical chimney that is climbed quickly and easily. Leave the chimney and follow a track (not way-marked) to the summit. Return by the same route.
Climbers (circled in red) on Cinque Torre
Punta Fiames 2240m
Via Michielli Albino Strobel
This route was created in 1964 in memory of Michielli Albino Strobel who was killed in a fall. It ascends the western flank of the Punta Fiames and, being near to Cortina and reasonably challenging, is an excellent route for serious newcomers to vie ferrate. The protected section consists of 500m of wire rope, a ladder, rungs, and brackets.
Park by the hotel Fiames. Cross the road and follow the way-marked path that climbs steeply through the trees and then scree to the start of the climbing-path.
The climbing is steep and exposed in places but very well protected and very enjoyable. (We followed a party of about 50 German troops who were on a training exercise!) The "crux" is a vertical rock step which is surmounted by a long ladder, rungs, and brackets. Finally, a sloping terrace followed by the last easy roped section leads to the summit of Punta Fiames.
Thedescent is down a huge scree slope. The path is well defined and a rapid descent is possible (convenient for us as thunder had started to roll nearby). Keep to the right hand branch of the scree as you reach the bottom and pick up a way-marked path through the forest. Follow this keeping right and eventually meet a track leading north.
The white line shows the approximate path of Via Michelli Albino Strobel
Cima di Mezzo 3163m
Climbing path "Marino Bianchi"
This is a great summit route. The more so because you can take the gondola lift from where you park your car to the start of the route at 2918m! Purists, if they prefer, can slog up the very!! steep path that climbs the scree slope beneath the cable run.
Leave Cortina on the road to Passo di Tre Croce. About 1km before the pass is the bottom station of the two stage lift from Rio Gere to The Forcella Staunies. The route starts from the SE end of the Rifugio Lorenzi's veranda.
The route is very well protected by 800m of well maintained wire ropes. It is exposed in parts and when we made the ascent there was a covering of fresh snow and it was rather icy and tricky in places. However, unlike our experience in the Brenta, the rope was not buried and we were quite happy with neither axe nor crampons.
"It all seemed extremely civilised. We togged up in our winter gear inside the warm Rifugio; it was feezing cold outside and blowing a gale. We then enjoyed a fantastic climb (1.5hours) with superb views, bagged a 3000m summit, and returned (1hour) to hot coffee and a spaghetti lunch!"
Looking down from the path to the Refugio G. Lorenzi (on the right) and gondola station (left). The ridge immediately behind them is the start of the Via Ivano Dibona
