WESTERN DOLOMITE ROUTES

Sentiero Alfredo Bernini
(Groste Pass to R. Tuckett)
Paths 305, 303 (or 315)

This route conveniently starts just outside the Groste cable-car station! Only the most ardent purists should consider any other means of ascent. It forms the first section of a magnificent traverse of the Brenta to R. Apostoli from where a good (if long) path leads down to the valley and the main road. The start of the path is well marked and crosses over broad, flat, limestone pavements. As we climbed higher we were enveloped in mist and thereafter had only fleeting scenic glimpses. For some days there had been unseasonally heavy snow and we were soon traversing the tops of snow banks unable to use the wire rope because it was buried. Fortunately the guides office had advised us to take ice-axes and crampons. Crampons were not needed as we encountered no ice or very hard snow but we were grateful for the ice-axes and the snow made some parts of the route quite exciting.

The route follows narrow ledges and is exposed in places until, from the highest point, there is a well protected scramble 100m down a rock nose. A clap of thunder just as we started down the wire ropes added a certain piquancy.

Further on the route descends to the west over a quite extensive glacierfield with views of the hanging glacier above. We were still in and out of mist and I cannot say whether we took the "Important Variation" p.219 of the Cicerone Guide (path 315) or the "real" Sentiero Bernini (path 303) from here. We came out to some moraine, heard the chink of climbing gear, met a climber, and found the Tuckett Hut 5 minutes later.


Looking back on the descent as the mist clears momentarily,


climbers scramble 100m down a well protected rock nose.


A path marker on the glacier with hanging glacier above.

 

Sentiero SOSAT
(R. Tuckett to R. Alimonta and Bocca degli Armi)
Path 305

This is a very enjoyable route and makes a good alternative to the harder Sentiero Bocchette Alte. The path links R. Tuckett to R. Alimonta and the Bocca degli Armi from where the Sentiero Bocchette Centrale can be followed to R. Pedrotti. It is well marked but there could be some route finding problems passing through an area of huge boulders in mist. The route includes some interesting and exposed climbing on ladders, brackets and ropes.

After climbing a vertical 51 rung ladder (see picture in Introduction) and turning a corner the Val Brenta and R. Brentei can be seen far below. A path leads down to the R. Brentei but the path to the R. Alimonta climbs to the flat limestone pavement on which it stands.


Bocca degli Armi from R. Alimonta

 

Sentiero Bocchette Centrale
(Bocca degli Armi to R. Pedrotti)
Path 303

We climbed the whole of this route in varying degrees of mist hence the paucity of illustration. The guide mentions bridged ravines but all I can remember is being rather gripped edging along the top of a snow bank with my ice-axe stretched out horizontally to reach the rock wall for balance and a small, illusory sense of security.

Leaving the R. Alimonta climb to the Bocca degli Armi from where a series of ladders leads up from the permanent snow of the Vedretta Sfulmini to an airy ledge. The route then continues easily along ledges but crosses a number of couloirs, where unmelted snow may cover the wire rope protection, until ladders (or a jump) lead down to the snowfield at the Bocca di Brenta. R. Pedrotti is just round the corner.


Jumping the "bergshrund" onto the snow field below the Bocca di Brenta

 

Sentiero Brentari
(R. Pedrotti to R. Agostini)
Paths 304 and 358

This is a route through breathtakingly beautiful scenery (the sun was shining and the sky was blue). The first part is great mountain walking. A fairly short amount of protected climbing path follows again made more interesting by the excess of snow. (The Hofler/Werner guide has what I consider to be a rather unhelpful illustration of the descent from the Bocca d. Tosa. It's from a viewpoint you could only see if you were doing the route the other way round to the description. Well, with all the extra snow it confused me.) From the Bocca d. Tosa the Vedretta Ambiez is reached by a steep descent, for us over somewhat unpleasant snow - the only time we used a rope, to the top of a quite long, vertical ladder. From here, hot chocolate at the very pleasant R. Agostini is not far away.


Sentiero Brentari

 

Sentiero Ettore Castiglioni
(R. Agostini to R. Dodici Apostoli)
Path 321

The Sentiero Ettore Castiglioni is an easier route from R. Agostini to R. Dodici Apostoli than the one via the Bocca d'Ambiez. Path 321 branches from the 358 and climbs westwards through a craggy area to the base of a 200m wall which is climbed by a series of airy ladders (about 300 rungs). Some of these ladders are in better condition than others. At the top there is a lot of very loose rock. From here, inexperienced or uncaring climbers, especially if descending, shower rock onto the heads of any unfortunate climbers on the ladders below. This reduces the "pure pleasure" of the climb. A HELMET IS ESSENTIAL. Nevertheless this is a worthwhile route to the end of the Brenta traverse at the R. Dodici Apostoli. All that remains is a pleasant descent to the forested slopes below and then what seems a long walk back to the main road.


Sentiero E. Castiglioni

Last updated 7 March 1999

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