The isle of Arran is frequently described as being like 'Scotland in
miniature' due to the diverse nature of its physical geography. This
diversity is caused by the island sitting astride the highland boundary
fault. Just as this fault bisects Scotland and divides it into highland
and lowland regions the same is also true of Arran. Perhaps it is
therefore fitting that Arran also possesses a diversity of stone
circles. What is remarkable is that there is a place where several such
circles are congregated together in one place. That place is Machrie
Moor. There is a path through Machrie Moor from the road that most
visitors will use to arrive at the site. However a word of warning -
the conventional numbering system applied to the circles by our
academic brethren is not equivalent to the order in which you will
encounter them! On this page I have arranged the circles in the order
in which most visitors will view them even if this does mean the
numbers seem randomised.
Having passed the Moss Farm Road ring cairn the first circle you will
encounter is circle five. This circle has a more memorable alternative
name of 'Fingal's Cauldron Seat'. The reason for this is the legend
that the giant Fingal used to boil up his cauldron by resting upon the
stones of the inner circle while using a holed stone in the outer
circle to tether his dog (Bran) while he did so. The circle itself is
of concentric design with an inner circle of eight stones is surrounded
by an outer circle of fifteen stones. The circle resembles several to
be found in Cumbria.
After circle five the next circle you are likely to notice on Machrie
Moor is circle three. The impact of circle three is solely down to a
magnificent monolith of sandstone - the sole intact survivor of a ring
of nine stones. The broken stumps of some of its lost companions are
visible in the turf. When intact this circle must have been the rival
of Stenness on Orkney. The stone has been eroded by the elements in a
manner reminiscent of the stones at Duddo in Northumberland or the
Devil's Arrows in Yorkshire. If you are lucky enough to own a copy of
Julian Cope's
The Modern Antiquarian
you will be able to see a picture of a very relieved Julian enjoying
the only ray of sunlight on Machrie Moor while admiring this stone. Al
and I had no such luck with the sun when we visited...but at least it
didn't rain!
As we continue our journey across Machrie Moor the next circle we'll
reach is circle four. At first glance it is easy to draw the conclusion
that circle four is a four poster ( a classic Scottish style of
circle), albeit a somewhat sloppily assembled one. However the setting
could also form a neat circular setting if a fifth stone was added,
which would make this into an Irish style five stone circle! Given the
care with which most of these monuments were laid out the latter seems
to be the more likely scenario.
Further east is circle two. Like circle three this circle seemed to
once consist of several tall sandstone blocks. Three of these still
stand proud adjancent to the remains of the other stones that once
completed what would have been a compact but fine circle
After circle two comes circle one. It is quite a contrast too. The tall
sandstone pillars are replaced by alternating heavy granite boulders
and smaller sandstone stones. This circle superseded an earlier wooden
setting.
And finally comes circle eleven! This circle was rediscovered by Aubrey
Burl during his excavations of the site thirty years ago. The circle
had been engulfed by peat but has now been uncovered. Again, this
circle was orginally built in wood but this was later superseded by the
stone version.
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