MY AURICULA YEAR

Please bear in mind that the composts I use, and method of growing suit my conditions and type of auricula I grow, other growers methods and composts may vary to suit them.

The growing structure is a tubular metal frame with a corrugated PVC roof. The sides are green shade netting on the outside all around with old net curtains hung on the inside which faces south. The roof is permantly covered with one layer of shade netting. Inside the roof on the sunny side are curtains on wires that can be pulled across on warmer days. The benches carry a mixture of sharp sand and Hortag and plants are grown in plastic pots.

MATURE PLANTS

During the winter sufficient water is given to keep the plants alive. The plants are well ventilated but botrytis can be a problem requiring leaves to be removed.

During February dead leaves are removed along with the moss at the top of the compost, pots are then top dressed. Plants that are to be shown are moved into clay pots. Offsets are removed and potted up, those without roots are rooted in sharp sand. Plants are given their first feed with a balanced fertilizer at 50% of the recommended rate. After this I feed a high potash fertilizer at 10% recommended rate every time they are watered. An alternative to doing this is to add slow release fertilizer to the compost mix at re potting time. During March flower buds start to show. On warmer days I pull the shading across. As flower stems grow some will need staking.

In April plants will be flowering and some are prepared for showing. Cuttings taken in February will have rooted and are potted into small pots. Flowers are pollinated to provide seed from which to raise new varieties. Some flowers have a pin, some pollen, some both and some neither. Semi doubles usually have pin and pollen, full doubles rarely have a pin but might have pollen. Not all pollen appears on stamens some can often be found at the side of petals at their base. In my experience crossing a semi double with a semi double produces a lot of semi doubles and singles but very few doubles. Crossing a semi double with a full double will produce a higher proportion of full doubles. Over time with practice you learn which varieties to use to give the best results.


PIN	POLLEN

In May dead flower pips are removed, ( not stems ), and pollinations are completed. Re-potting is done towards the end of the month if not too hot. Plants that were moved into clay pots in February are now moved back into plastic pots. A fungicide is applied to wounds caused by pulling off leaves and shortening long carrots ( roots ). Re-potted plants are given water only for six weeks. Other plants are fed and watered as usual. If pests appear they are given the appropriate treatment.

In hot dry weather the floor and benches are damped down to keep a moist damp atmosphere to keep red spider away. If spider appears I use a recommended insecticide. Plants need to be kept cool during the summer months. I use extra layers of shading on the roof and sunny side. On very hot days the roof is sprayed with water and a fan is used on the inside to move the air around. The plants are watered as necessary during this period. Occasionally a flower stem may rot back to the base. If this happens any dark brown mark on the main stem is cut away and a fungicide is applied. Seed pods are cropped when ripe, when seeds have dried they are placed in seed envelopes and put in a jar in the bottom of the fridge.

Plants are treated for vine weevil during August or September. Plants that were not re-potted in May are done in September, this includes plants that have carried seed. Extra shading is removed from the auricula house.

In October pots are plunged ready for winter. As growth slows down feeding is stopped and plants are kept just moist by watering the sand/Hortag plunge.

COMPOSTS AND POTS

RE-POTTING AND POTTING ON

1 Part horticultural grit + 1 part John Innes No 2 + 1 part multipurpose peat based compost.

SEED

1 part sharp sand + 5 parts peat based seed compost.

PRICKING OUT

1 Part sharp sand + 6 parts peat based multi purpose + 2 parts John Innes No 2.

POT SIZES

6F 8F or 9F depending on size of plant.

SEED

Seeds are sown at the end of January. I use spread tubs with drainage holes made with hot nails. Tubs of compost are watered then seed is mixed with dry sharp sand to help distrubition. Seeds are sown on the surface and covered with clay granules* which changes shade when it dries making it easier to know when trays need watering. Tubs are labelled and placed in clear polythene bags and put in a cool shady place until germination. The label holds up the polythene bag like a tent, this prevents condensation dripping onto seedlings. ( If damping off occurs remove bags and spray with a suitable fungicide such as Cheshunt Compound )

In March as germination proceeds polythene bags are opened up and removed altogether when germination is complete. Seedlings are pricked out when large enough to handle into 40 cell trays. They are kept cool and shaded and are fed every 2-3 weeks.

In early June seedlings are moved into 15 cell trays using potting on auricula compost. Trays are watered by immersion in water containing a 10% feed. Seedlings are kept cool and the same regime is followed as for mature plants. Most seedlings should flower the following season, a proportion of these will be single and may not come double if kept for a further year.

The best is selected, the rest rejected.


GERMINATING SEEDS	SEEDLINGS PRICKED OUT