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Having left a warm UK in February it was a great surprise
stepping off our 'Crab Air' VC10 at Muharraq, Bahrain to find it was colder
than the UK!
At Muharraq we were introduced to our Squadron Leader CO of 152 'Hyderabad
'Squadron and OC of A flight, who flew the glamorous high- speed Percival
Pembroke. While we of B flight, with our Flight Lieutenant CO, were based
at the sharp end at Sharjah and flew in the illustrious Twin Pioneer.
More avid readers may be interested in the fact that 152
Squadron was formed in 1918 as a night fighter squadron flying Sopwith
Camels and disbanded at the end of the war. It reformed in 1938 as fighter
squadron with the Gloucester Gladiator, soon to be replaced with the Spitfire.
The squadron
saw service in the Battle of Britain, Malta and Burma before disbandment.
The name" Hyderabad", together with a Dastard (Ruler's headdress)
as the squadron badge, was in recognition of the donation of Spitfires
to RAF by the Nizam of Hyderabad.
Arrival at RAF Sharjah, with a Wing Commander CO, was like stepping back
in time. The control tower was in a "Beau Geste" type fort.
All six of us new boys on B flight, three pilots and three navigators,
then had a formal presentation by the CO of the Trucial Oman Scouts [TOS]
of our shemagh (the red and white Bedouin headdress) and agal (the black
cord that held it in place on the head). Our major role was working with
the TOS, doing communication, exercises, casevac and supply.
One of our less glamorous tasks was flying to Rasal Kahman for the fruit
and vegetable run. We would load up the aircraft, fumigate it, then board
it ten minutes later to find the cockpit temperature over 140 F and full
of dead flies! Do not remember that in the advertisement about becoming
'steely eyed aircrew'!
Some of the airstrips that we used included:
Jebel Akhdar, Muscat, 6000 feet up. The runway was very short,
which had a sheer drop one end and mountain the other, with the remains
of a Venom aircraft at one end, shot down by insurgents, fortunately they
had been sorted out by the SAS.
Salalah, Muscat. Unfortunately the insurgents were still active
and the odd mortar was lobbed at the strip.
Masirah, where great pleasure was gained in showing
visiting 'Crab Air' aircrew to the loo when requested directions to the
TV room, as we had no TV in the Gulf. I was fortunate to view the turtle
laying their eggs on the island, one of the few spots this event occurs
worldwide.
Muscat Town, where the town gates were locked at sunset and you
were then only able to walk the town with a lantern.
Burami Oasis, again with its Beau Geste fort and scene of confrontation
with Saudi Arabia in 1955 until they were sorted out by the TOS.
Liwa Hollows, which was in the middle of nowhere, with the strip
carved into dunes 300 feet high. On one occasion we had to abort the flight
when our primary navigation aid, The Mark 1 Eyeball, failed due to poor
visibility!
During the course of my tour I indulged in sailing. I
was able to take sailing teams to Bahrain and Abu Dahbi, where we were
air lifted out from the sailing club by helicopter. In those days it was
easy to arrange air transport. However, sailing came to an abrupt end
during the Arab/ Israeli Six Day War when the sailing compound was burnt
down with our two catamarans. Some Palestinians saw visiting Hunter aircraft
taking off for the range and they thought they were en route for Israel!
Would you believe the next day we had some Palestinians visit the sick
bay with burns admitting how they got burnt! The local sheikh dealt with
the problem by giving free transport by boat to volunteers to join the
war! Problem solved.
I was also able to take up riding, as the TOS felt it
was part of their tradition to have horses, not just any old horses but
beautiful Arab horses, which needed exercising. So I frequently took to
riding on the beach at dawn, with the horse being in charge rather than
the rider!
The biggest event to affect me was when the CO volunteered me to set up
and run a desert survival school! Unfortunately I was unable to come up
with any good reasons to get out of this mission.
I was sent to RAF El Adem for training, this was to take nearly a month,
as I had to go by "Crab Air" VC10 via Muharraq to Cyprus, which
was easy enough. The problem was Cyprus to El Adem. My first attempt in
a Canberra ended at the end of the runway!
Eventually I made by it Hastings via Malta [cannot escape the place],
where I took the liberty of having a few days R&R. After the course,
which I have to admit had not enhanced my knowledge, I returned to Sharjah,
borrowed a Land rover from the desert survival team, put on my ' Lawrence
of Arabia' gear and set out into the desert to find a suitable site to
run the survival school. Fortunately I got slightly lost and ended up
in an encampment run by a Scotsman drilling for water. So after a swim
in the pool, a curry supper and parting with a bottle of whisky I had
found my ideal site {I think they call it imitative}.
Thereafter I was able to run a few survival courses in great safety. While
the 'victims' survived in their tents with temperatures of 130F and even
had the odd Bedouin visit requesting water from their rations, yours truly
enjoyed a swim, curry supper and spent the night in an air-conditioned
tent, all for the price of a bottle of whisky.
I also received an AOC commendation!
I also have memories of my Honda motor bike running out
of petrol en route to Dubai, fortunately the local AA were very good,
the first lorry stopped, put the bike in the back and dropped me off at
the nearest petrol station, no charge.
The Trucial Scouts certainly knew how to entertain with their TOS Ball,
which had a 'surplus of women' as they had, at great cost, been flown
in from all over the Gulf. Yours truly arrived at the mess at 2000 hours
to be greeted by a piper and departed the next day at 0800;I can say it
was the best function I had ever attended.
During our tour we were given the choice of a free flight to UK for R&R
or two weeks in Kenya, which included a weeks safari and a week in the
5* Norfolk Hotel Nairobi, all inclusive, with flight, for £35! Yes
you guessed correctly this was the option I took.
Unfortunately the good life came to an end in September
and we became part of the real RAF, with the closure of Aden. Argosy aircraft
were then based at Sharjah and we had Group Captain CO.
Finally on the 15 November 1967 the illustrious 152 Hyderabad Squadron
was disbanded at RAF Muharaq.
Today Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Muscat have all developed and become tourist destinations,
a far cry from the sort of places they had been when I was posted to Sharjah.
Little did I realise then that it was to be the end of an era, one that
I have been very fortunate and privileged to participate in.
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