Hebridean Challenge 2001
Monday 26 August 2001 - The Gathering.
As usual we left it to the last minute to get together - Gavin Earons (that's me), Donald Thomson and Graham Meeks drove down to Benbecula on Saturday (Mackinnon Self-Drive of Stornoway had kindly sponsored us with the free use of one of their transit vans). The van was packed full of gear, food and SIX bikes! Our other sponsor was the Scottish Cooperative Society who had given us a handsome cheque towards our costs. We are deeply indebted to both Mackinnons and the Co-op who have assisted us for several years.
We met up with Murdie Campbell in Lochmaddy on Sunday after he and Robert Emmott ( who was canoeing for another team) had paddled down from Lewis over the previous two days. For some folk the challenge itself just isn't enough! Finally Janet Smith joined us this morning - we had a team!
After registering at Southend Community Hall in South Uist, we went over our route plan and tactics. Over the next four days, not only would we have to complete the full course in a team relay format but we would have to earn 140 bonus points by putting extra people out on some of the off-road sections. Where we did it was up to us!
We decided to gain our first 17 points by putting Graham and I over to Barra for the double hill and cycle prologue. Murdie would also be in Barra for the start of his canoe prologue while Janet and Donald would scout out some of tomorrow's changeover points in Eriskay and South Uist.
In the early afternoon Murdie set off with the other canoeists to paddle to the start in Barra. Graham and I (and about twenty others) loaded our bikes onto the small passenger ferry and sailed across to the start.
Monday 26 August 2001 - The Prologue.
Eoligarry Pier, Isle of Barra - Graham and I watched nervously as the first nine teams left in a staggered start. Then it was our turn, we were off! Graham shot off and I tried (but failed) to hang on to his wheel. We were going well as we passed the sandy beach that is Barra Airport. Then, as we hit the first downhill section, I tried to put on a spurt to catch Graham but instead I came to a very sudden stop - my chain had come off and jammed against the frame. We lost a few minutes as I tried to pull it out with my hands but failed - eventually I had to find a spanner and lever it out. A few minutes later, my seat collapsed on me - things could only get better!
I was struggling to keep up with Graham as we headed towards the 383m climb up Sheabhal. We left our bikes at the high point and began the relentless climb up the steep side of this small but tough hill (the highest on Barra). I began to feel stronger and we passed a couple of teams on the climb - the Greek Team seemed to be struggling on the unfamiliar terrain. We clicked our electronic tags into the machine at the summit and suddenly I seemed to be full of energy. We flew down the steep descent and returned to our bikes for the cycle to Vatersay. The tables were turned - Graham had to work hard to keep up with me as I powered up the steep climb that led to the Vatersay Causeway! We crossed the causeway and left our bikes at the foot of the hill. As we climbed to Theiseabhal Mor, the highest point on Vatersay at 190m, the leading group of teams were already on the way down!
We soon reached the summit and again I found a good line down the steep hillside to take us back to our bikes. I was still full of energy and again forced the pace over the steep climb before the final sprint to the finish at the Fire Station in Castlebay. We had done well, despite my mechanical problems we had lost only 10 minutes to the leading team and were in sixth place. The other teams were not impressed with my old steel Raleigh bike - one even described it as 'a bit of a bedspread'. Cheeky beggar - bedspread or not we had beaten him to the finish!
We had a welcome hot shower at the Fire Station and enjoyed some superb home cooked food. Thank you ladies! Over dinner, we met up with Murdie, who had done very well in his paddle from Bruernish to Ardveenish. He came in sixth but was looking forward to the longer legs to come - the short sharp sprint of the prologue doesn't give him a chance to warm up!
A few of us went up to the Craigard Hotel for a blether and a beer! A very enjoyable end to my first adventure racing trip to Barra and Vatersay.
Tuesday 27 August 2001 - The Longest Day?
Eoligarry Pier, Isle of Barra - The day began with Graham and I cycling from Castlebay to Eoligarry - nine miles of torture for me as I tried to keep up with Graham. He yo-yoed back and forward, usually just too far in front of me to give me a tow but occasionally slowing down suddenly and I would all but overtake him before he sped ahead again. Not exactly the most energy efficient method of covering the ground! Nevertheless, we had completed the prologue section and gained our first 17 points.
Ardveenish Pier, Isle of Barra - At about the same time Murdie set off for his paddle to Eriskay. The route looked interesting as it involved canoeing through the narrow gap between Gighay and Hellisay before heading to the new Ceann a Gharaidh breakwater on Eriskay.
Ludag Pier, South Uist - Graham imploded into his familiar race focussed shell again as we made sure we had everything ready for the next leg. He and Donald were due to double up on the mountain bike leg up the machair/beach of South Uist (to gain another 20 points). Where was Donald? He had left a note on the dashboard - I had to drive to Eriskay to pick up Janet, a bike and Murdie.
Isle of Eriskay - Murdie had a strong paddle to come in fourth and tagged Janet who set off up to the highest point on Eriskay (Ben Scrien at 185m) - are you beginning to detect a pattern here? Yes, the race organizer had decided that not only would we run the length of the Outer Hebrides, we would also climb the highest point on every inhabited island on the way.
Janet completed her run and tagged Donald who set off for Ludag to join Graham on the long mountain bike leg up the west coast of South Uist to Grogarry.
Having sorted out Graham, I drove the van round to pick up Janet, Bike, Murdie + Canoe. I found a very lonely paddler standing in the car park - we were last to arrive! Poor Murdie was beginning to wonder if we had forgotten him! We loaded the canoe and set off for the next transition. Janet was supposed to tag Graham and Donald down on the machair then cycle to meet me at the start of my mountain run while they carried on to the end of the MTB leg. That was the theory! Donald and Graham had flown up the beach and got there first! Donald had to cycle out to the main road, tag Janet and set off back to Graham then restart the mountain bike leg. Oops! I bet a few choice words were aired - thankfully I was out of earshot.
Beinn Mhor, Corrodale, Lochskipport - Janet soon arrived and I set off towards the cloud covered hills ahead of me. This was the third year in a row I had done this leg and I have yet to see the summit of Beinn Mhor! I passed the lady solo competitor at the foot of the steep 620m climb to Beinn Mhor and never saw another person for the rest of leg. I ground my way up through the cloud and reached the summit ridge slightly too far south, nice cairn but not the right one! I was on familiar ground and quickly found the true summit and checked in (no friendly words of encouragement from this electronic marshal). I followed the narrow ridge and found the third cairn on Beinn Mhor before I picked my way down through the rocks in thick cloud. Suddenly, as I headed down towards the bealach before Ben Corrodale, the cloud lifted and I could let the brakes off. I sped to the bottom and crossed over to the start of the 300m climb up to Ben Corrodale - anxious to make the most of the break in the clouds.
Just before the summit, the cloud rolled in again but I knew my way and soon found the top. A very quick, steep descent was followed by a long contour round the shoulder of Hecla before the dreaded 'bog slog' across to the end of the leg at Lochskipport.
Flood Gates, Loch Bee - Graham was waiting for me and he set off on the short run to the flood gate at the end of Loch Bee where he was to tag Murdie. Murdie then had to paddle to Donald who was to start swimming the length of the Loch Bee causeway. Meanwhile Graham had to run back to his bike and cycle to the end of the swim while Janet and I had to take the van to meet them all. Confused - so were we! But we did it, we all met up again at the right place! Graham then cycled off to Benbecula while we got Donald out of his wet suit and loaded Murdie's canoe onto the Van. Murdie had got slightly lost in the islands in loch but lost little time. Donald complained that he had to resort to breast stroke in places because the loch was too shallow. By now the weather was truly awful - cold driving rain.
Ruebhal, Benbecula - We were supposed to reach the Market Stance before Graham but we just did not have time. Luckily, we knew it was tight and had told Graham to carry on and climb Ruebhal if we didn't catch him. We missed him by two minutes, so Graham got the bonus of climbing the highest hill on Benbecula - all 124m of it.
Grimsay - Things were getting frantic, Graham arrived off Ruebhal, Donald jumped on the bike for the sprint to Grimsay where he tagged me. I jumped on my mountain bike, sprinted for 1 mile, jumped off, ran to the high point (an astounding 33 metres or so above sea level)! I ran back to my bike and cycled to the main road. My shortest mountain leg ever - a total of about 10 minutes including both cycles!
Eabhal, North Uist - No time to stop and think! Donald had to cycle to Cladach Carinish but we had to get Graham and Janet there before him. They were about to climb the highest hill in North Uist - Eabhal at 373m. We got there just in time. Graham and Janet set off up the hill in atrocious conditions. Meanwhile Donald set off for the high point of Baleshare! This could have been the most difficult task in the whole event - there is not a single contour shown on the map of Baleshare! How was he to know when he had reached the top?
Clachan Burrival, North Uist - Janet and Graham should be gone for an hour and half - plenty time to get to Clachan Burrival for the next change over. Another nice theory! A couple of miles down the road to Clachan Burrival, I remembered that Murdie still had another paddle. When? He said 4.00 at Lochmaddy pier. It was now 3.10! I turned the van around and headed for Lochmaddy - flat out ( I may add that flat out in a laden transit van is still a good 10mph inside the speed limit)! We made it with 10 minutes to spare. But now I had to get back to Clachan Burrival in time to meet Janet and Graham coming off Eabhal. More flat out driving saw me there in time - just. A very wet and cold Donald was waiting patiently in the pouring rain - he had guessed what had happened and didn't seem at all put out by his long wait. Minutes later, Janet and Graham arrived off Eabhal - Graham had found it tough trying to keep up with a fresh Janet who seemed to be in excellent form. Another 15 points were in the bag. I was still on the wrong side of the sea loch and jumped into the boat to take me to the other side of the loch for the start of my hill leg.
South and North Lee, North Uist - We were just a couple of minutes out, when the boatman heard a shout. He had to turn back to pick up a runner from another team. Where had he come from? We hadn't seen anyone since early morning. I was not too impressed, the thought of racing another guy across the bogs and hills of North Uist was not too appealing after an already strenuous day. (I found out later that the team had skipped the Eabhal leg altogether - which explained their sudden appearance).
We set off together across the bog towards South Lee. Although we took different routes, we always seemed to come back together again. On the way up he disappeared for a while and I though I'd left him behind. Imagine my disgust when I saw him appearing out of the mist ahead and above me! I put in an extra effort and reach the 281m summit just before him. We took off down towards the bealach at a good pace only to be brought to a halt by a high cliff. I took a quick look, decided it was too steep and climbed back up but he tried to climb down! I found a steep crack in the cliff and slid/scrambled down to bottom and headed across towards North Lee. I looked back and saw him some way behind - he too had had to climb back up! I reached the top of North Lee (251m) and ran back down to the bog and loch filled moor as I aimed for the road. He caught me again on the flat but I refused to let him leave me behind. We reached the end of the leg together - he had pulled me to a much faster time than I would have done on my own! But I cursed him all the way - it hurt!
Beinn Shleibhe, Berneray - I tagged Donald who cycled off to Berneray in pouring rain for the last leg of the day. He tagged Janet who had the short climb up to Beinn Shleibhe (93m) before Graham cycled the final mile across the machair to the Community Centre and the end of a huge day.
Lochmaddy - Berneray paddle - Murdie had been in the hall for sometime and seemed well pleased with his paddle from Lochmaddy to Berneray. So he should be - a dreaded long portage across the mudflats of North Uist had turned out to be relatively short!
We had completed the first full day of the race. We took over 12 hours, had 52 points in the bag and were in sixth place - not too bad for a bunch of OAP's with a total age of 219!
Berneray Community Centre - The community centre was a real success, great food and race organizer Martin Stone had even organized a few cans of beer for the troops! Good man. There was a great buzz in the hall, as teams discussed the days events and sorted out logistics for the next day.
I sought out the Greek Team who I hoped were having as good time in this race as Graham, Donald and I had had when we competed in the Pindos Crossing 2000 and 2001 races in Greece. The Greeks were here because they had won the 2000 Pindos Crossing race and their prize was a free trip to the Hebridean Challenge.
It turns out that they had had a difficult day - they had been in two minor accidents, one of which had damaged their bikes and two of the team (one of them their lady) had not come down from the last hill leg yet - it was now after 10.00pm, very dark, very wet and, especially for them, very cold. I was quite worried.
The winner of the Pindos Crossing solo event was in the solo event here. He too had had a tough time, with logistical and equipment problems to add to the difficult terrain and terrible weather. Nikos Manoussakis, his support man who I knew very well from our trips to Greece, was being very laid back about it all.
Thankfully, the missing pair arrived safe and well just before a major search and rescue expedition was mounted. They got the usual sympathy from their team mates - none! They just got a hard time about what a young man and woman could find to do in the dark for so long!
Wednesday 28 August 2001 - The hardest Day?
Berneray - We rose at 5.00 and packed the van before catching our early ferry to Harris. Graham did his usual team player routine and looked after number one by nipping up to the crews mess room and having some breakfast while we were stuck with the coffee machine!
We had left Murdie behind to start the day with a paddle to Leverburgh. He was now in full flow and came in fourth on the leg. Donald then had a short sharp uphill cycle to where I was waiting to tackle Roineabhal.
Roineabhal - Once more the cloud was low down on the 450m mountain as I took a direct line for the summit. No great problem, just a moment of doubt near the top when Mark Laithwaite and Nicola Davies from the Wrong Box - No Score team came down towards me - shouldn't they be going down the other side?
I found the summit and headed off down to the road on the north side of the hill. After a long steady descent I came out of the mist and saw the van far below - plus Nicola and Mark in the distance. I took of at full speed and just caught them as we reached the road. Now that was fun! Especially the moment I leapt off a peat hag at full pelt and cleared the hidden lady competitor who was squatting there answering a call of nature - I do not who got the biggest shock!
Bleabhal - I tagged Janet and Graham who were doubling up on the next leg for another 8 points. We drove round to Borve studios to wait for them to arrive. Graham saw some others in the distance and tried to force the pace to catch them. Janet decided that he was moving fast but not in the right direction! She called him and took him up a steep scramble directly to the summit - then didn't hang about on the way down! Graham was reported to have told her to slow down and save herself for later (adventure racer speak for I am struggling to keep up with you!)
Drinishader - Donald started the next leg by cycling to Seilebost, Graham took over on the mountain bike and took the old path through to Ardvey. He then tagged me for the section through to Stockinish and Drinishader. This was a magnificent mountain bike ride on a rough and in place technical single track path. John Bardgett from the leading Wrong Box - No Score team left the hostel just in front of me. He stretched out his lead for a while but I caught him again at the end when he fell off on one of the rockier sections. Donald then took over for the road bike to Tarbert. It was all go and we were going well!
Gillebhal Glas (475m) and Sron Ard (559m) -Janet set off up the steep rocky climb to Gillebhal Glas as we took Murdie back to Tarbert in time for the start of his paddle to Scalpay. He had missed out on his paddle to Taransay and the climb to its highest point because the Sea Safety Officer had decided to cancel the leg. Although the weather forecast had been bad, typically, the weather turned out to be fine and the paddle could have gone ahead!
We drove round to the high point between Clisham and Sron Ard to wait for Janet to come down out of the clouds. Sheep running on the hillside caught our attention and through the binoculars I picked her out. She was in full flight - sometimes in control - sometimes not! I saw her slip and slide down one grassy slope on her butt! Whatever, it was certainly quick! Donald took over and finished the leg with a road bike descent to the Huisinish turn off and the start of the next two legs which were taking place in parallel.
Mountain Bike Time Trial - Donald and Graham were doubling up on this one for a mighty 28 points. Despite a couple of days of intense pressure from all of us Graham had refused to take the huge Uisgnebhal Mor - Clisham hill running leg - he was set on winning the MTB time trial! I had been keen to do the MTB leg but in the end the low cloud made the decision for me - there was no way I could send Graham out into the mist - his navigational skills are a bit suspect (or so he claims!).
Donald and Graham had stayed together until just after Voshmid hut but, as soon as the gradient increased, they had to get off and shove up the wet track. Graham pulled away up the 300m climb and was not seen again! The leg continued down the steep zigzag path to the river out of Loch Langavat before another 150m climb up to high point before Bowglas. The three mile descent to the main road was a fast rough single track.
The tarmac climb over Clisham led to the beautiful Maaruig - Urgha track which climbs over 100m before descending to a lovely fast section alongside the Lacasdail Lochs. The final road section to Scalpay Community Centre has some nasty climbs and was not easy after all that had gone before. A real epic ride!
Uisgnebhal Mor (729m), Mullach an Langa (614m), Clisham (799m) - I chased Donald and Graham along for the first mile as I used my bike to get me nearer my first hill. I left the road and made straight for the summit almost three miles away. As I climbed through the low cloud I became increasingly concerned that my direct line would take me below some cliffs I knew were below the summit. I veered off and joined the main ridge just south of the summit and soon reached the cairn. I knew that the descent from here involved taking a wide line to avoid some serious cliffs and I soon reached the bealach and turned east down the river valley. The conditions were atrocious, the wind was funneling up the valley, driving the rain into my face and blowing me off my feet. However, as I lost height, the wind died back and I enjoyed the long descent beside the stream.
All to soon, I had contoured round, crossed the bealach and started up the steepest climb of the race - 400m of very steep grass. I settled into a steady rhythm and soon found myself at the checkpoint. Along with another guy - where did he come from!
As he headed off down into the corrie below, I thought I would try and keep up with him. Much to my surprise I found renewed energy, not only could I keep up but I found I was moving faster. I caught and overtook him as we crossed the floor of the corrie. I found a great line up the North West side of Clisham and was relieved to reach the summit cairn (the highest point in Harris at 799m). I immediately took off on a very familiar descent route and 20 minutes later reached the car park. I was on a real high! But I wasn't finished yet. I had to jump on my mountain bike and cycle down into Maaruig then climb the horrendously steep road over to Rhenigidale before I could get a rest. As I handed over to Janet all my energy had gone and I felt totally finished. I was now on a real low!
Uisebhal (334m) - Janet set off on the spectacular "postman's track" towards Tarbert. The first part is a beautiful coastal run before a vicious 300m climb up a sheer face - luckily the track is well graded and has thirteen hairpin bends on it as it zigzags to the top. Just before the high point she turned east and headed across the boggy plateau to the summit. A tricky navigational exercise in the thick cloud.
Meanwhile I had sped round to the Scalpay hall to try and get someone else to do the last leg of the day for me - I was exhausted! As I made for the door of the hall, I saw Stephanie Sergeant (one of the race organizers) heading towards me. I did not want to see her much less speak to her. I hadn't seen her in the 6 months since she had forced me to resign as Chairman of the Hebridean Challenge board of Directors. An action for which I still hadn't forgiven her and for which I had become increasingly bitter.
She said that Graham had been injured. In my panic to avoid speaking to her, I shouted "Good" and pushed passed her into the hall. I found Donald and Murdie sitting there. I said I needed someone to do the last leg of the day for me. Donald said "Who?" I said "You or Graham". It was then the bombshell hit, he told me that Graham was on his way to hospital. I suddenly realised what Stephanie had said and felt absolutely terrible. Donald told me that Graham had crashed on the last off-road section and hurt his shoulder and elbow. Despite the crash he had actually managed to finish the leg! This was the third time in four races that Graham had ended up in Hospital nan Eilean! His proud boast had been that he had been first in Stornoway every year - twice in an ambulance and once in the winning team. He had extended his own record!
I could see that Donald was absolutely shattered - he had been out for over three and a half and had only just arrived. Nothing for it but I would have to do the last leg. We jumped back in the van and drove to meet Janet.
Ben Scoraval (104m), Isle of Scalpay - I knew this was the last leg of the day and turned all my pent up anger and frustration with Stephanie into one final burst of energy. I flew through Scalpay, ran all the way to the summit and gave it everything on the final stretch back to Scalpay Hall. I think my team mates were impressed!
Scalpay Hall - Graham's accident hung like a cloud over the evening for us. We cheered up later when I phoned the hospital and was told that he was fine and had been sent home. We discussed the situation and decided that not only would we try and complete the challenge but we would also still try and reach the 140 point target - we still needed another 52 points. It was going to be tough - but hey, that's adventure racing!
Scalpay Community Centre put on fabulous spread and over a couple of beers we sorted out our strategy for the next two days. We were convinced we could still do it! To achieve our target Janet and I would have to double up on two legs tomorrow as well do another leg each! We worked out that there would always be at least one of us in the van so we were able to decline the kind offer from Jill (one of the Race Marshals) to drive for us. Race marshals Jill and Victoria were two of the stars of the race - they were out in some terrible weather, they were eaten alive by midges but they always had a smile and a friendly word. Well done!
Things were looking up. I found myself acting as a race consultant - my local knowledge was much sought after by some of the teams. As I talked to the Greek team, I realised they were misunderstanding many of the route instructions. I talked them through some of the complicated choices available on the next day. They had already had two tough days and were in for another one - but hey, that's adventure racing!
Thursday 29 August 2001 - The Crucial Day?
Scalpay Community Centre - It was crucial that we doubled up the two long legs today or we would have no chance of meeting our target of finishing the full event and gaining all the required bonus points. The day started with two legs happening in parallel - Murdie had to canoe from Scalpay up Loch Seaforth and then accompany Donald on a swim across the Loch. At the same time, I had to climb Toddun and cycle to the start of the swim. The devious part in the rules was that we had to gauge how long we would take to get there as the canoe leg was the one with the running clock. We were not allowed to start the swim until both of the parallel legs had been completed - but the clock wouldn't stop if we didn't get there on time!
Donald set off on his bike about half an hour before Murdie was due to start his paddle - would there be enough time?
Toddun (528m) - Donald arrived at the Urgha end of the track and I set off for Toddun. Following the same route as I used in 1996. Although I was in thick cloud, I was confident of the route and made good time to the bealach and turned east towards Toddun. I contoured round passed one small hill and started the climb to the summit - or so I thought! I quickly reached summit plateau and the cairn. Far too quickly! I should have realised straight-away that I was not at the right summit. I did not recognise the cairn and tried to remember if there was a second cairn on Toddun. Despite being certain there wasn't, I tried to find one. Just as I began to realise I was on the wrong hill, I heard a shout from below and waited for him to reach me. My brain then thought that if two of us were here we must be on the right hill! I just wasn't thinking straight - as soon as I stopped and thought about it for two seconds I came up with the right answer - Toddun was to the east and this was just the little hill before it. I ran down about 50m and immediately saw the bulk of Toddun ahead - I was back on track. But how could I have wasted so much time on a hill I had climbed over 20 times before?
Just as I reached the summit, the Greek competitor appeared out of the mist, he had taken a much longer route but found the summit first time. Talk about the hare and the tortoise. I took off down to the road and jumped on my mountain bike for my second leg of the day. (Donald could not do this bike leg because he was doing the swim and the rules said that the swimmer must not have been active in the 30 minutes prior to his swim.)
Toddun to the Fish Farm - The climb out of Maaruig village which I hated last night was now an exhilarating descent - this was fun! The climb up to the main road was tough but I felt strong as I headed for the next off-road section down the old track to Scaladale. Just as I reached the turn off, the Greek guy caught me - he had used his road bike for the tarmac section. I pulled away from him as I crossed the boggy plateau and then left him on the muddy descent. I was going well as I raced along the tarmac towards the fish farm. About 50m from the junction, the Greek guy caught me again (he was back on his road bike) and he shouted for me to take his wheel. I could tell he was not going to turn down the fish farm road - he was heading for Balallan! I shouted to him to turn right and I splashed through the disinfecting trough and took off down the track. I took about three minutes out of him as he nursed his road bike down the rough road - one up to the mountain biker!
I tagged Donald and he set off on the swim across Loch Seaforth. I think Murdie must have been having a fag on the way over because he took Donald on a wide semicircle rather than going straight across the loch! Janet had already been ferried over to the other side.
I had a couple of mugs of hot soup (courtesy of Tarbert Fire station where we stayed last night) and watched as Murdie brought Donald back over on the back of his canoe! Donald obviously didn't fancy waiting for the Fish Farm boat to ferry him back over or maybe he just smelled the soup!.
Sidhean an Airgid (380m) to Feirihisval (327m) - Janet had a tough 8 miles or so across two hills as her introduction to the day. She had another storming run and probably didn't have too much time to admire the view from Sidhean an Airgid. The run across the summit plateau is on excellent ground but the following valley is a mud bath - quad bikes and argocats have ripped the surface off and exposed the underlying peat. Luckily she was running across the valley not along it! The next checkpoint was not at the summit but at two tiny lochans a short distance away. Why? She had no difficulty finding them and quickly made her way down to the road where Donald was waiting on the road bike.
Roineval (282) and Ben Mohal (200m) - Two small hills maybe but they were in the middle of nowhere! Janet and I were doubling up on this leg to get another 21 points. We had to leave Balallan and cross 10 miles of lochs, bogs, rivers and hills to get to Scaliscro! Janet had barely 15 minutes to recover from her last leg before setting out on this epic bogslog! Donald had the easy option - although he started and finished at the same point he was able to use his road bike all the way!
We set off at a nice steady pace as we made for the summit of Roineval. I was in an extra cautious frame of mind as I knew we had a long way to go with Mealisbhal (and possibly Suainebhal) still to come at the end of the day. As we neared the summit, we were joined by the winner of the MTB time trial. Although he had been moving quicker than us, he wanted to stay with us until after the river crossings. I led us down the west side of the hill and headed with some trepidation to the island at the end of Loch Langavat. Trepidation because in 1994 when I did a similar leg, the river had been in full flood and I had almost been swept away. We reached the first river crossing and the water was barely calf deep! The second crossing was even shallower - I had been worrying for nothing. So had the other guy - as soon as he crossed the river he took off and soon left us far behind.
We plodded on and headed for the summit of Ben Mohal. Janet was beginning to suffer mild dehydration but kept on going regardless. We stopped at the summit and looked back - we could see a huge semicircle of mountains - we had covered about half of them already this morning! The vastness of what we had already done, put into perspective what was left of the leg - only a couple of miles and more or less all downhill. This thought gave us renewed energy and we ran comfortably to the Scaliscro road end.
Donald met us and gave me the good news that he felt strong and was going to do Suainebhal for me! Nice one.
Suainebhal (429m) - We dropped Murdie off at Gisla for his paddle down Little Loch Roag to Miavaig. Picked up Donald's bike and went round to the west side of Suainebhal to wait for him at the weir. I knew Donald was familiar with the climb up Suainebhal from the east but I did not know if he knew the best way down the cliff face on the west - could be a bit of a problem in the low cloud. I needn't have worried, he had instinctively found the best way down and he was soon crossing the weir to tag me.
I set off on my mountain bike, expecting to have to cycle the 6 miles to the start of the next leg but Donald had other ideas. He caught me up and swapped over - so that I could save some energy for the climb to come. Good man!
Mealisbhal (574m) - We parked the van and prepared for our final effort of the day. Donald arrived and, as we set off, I heard him say he was going to change something on my bike. I did not know what. Janet set off up the peat road but I was suffering from a serious stress injury at the foot of my shin and could not stand the jarring of the hard surface. I took to the moor and had to work hard to keep up with her.
As we hit the steep climb, I could see that Janet was almost totally exhausted. She joked that the more tired she got the closer her nose got to the ground. By the end of the climb she was almost ploughing a furrow with it! We took a very direct line and stopped a few times to admire the view (adventure racer speak for "take a rest"). Although she was running on empty, I knew that Janet would reach the top. We had to take it easy but in the end we finally came out of the huge boulder field and reached the summit cairn. We took a wider line on the descent to get some faster ground. Janet took it easy through the rocks but a soon as the ground turned to grass and heather she picked up speed!
I made the mistake of stopping to take off my jacket. When I had it stowed in my rucksack, I turned round to see where she was and got a shock. She had found a good piece of ground and had made the most of it - she was disappearing into the distance below me! I took off in hot pursuit. Where did I find the energy? Where had she found the energy? I caught her as we reached the final flat stretch across the moor. She found her favourite peat road and I stuck to the bog. We reached the van and sent Donald on his way. Another 11 points were in the bag.
Ardroil Sands to Uig Community Centre - As Donald cycled off, I saw what he had done to my bike - he had put in a longer seat post to suit his long legs. We were a bit worried about the state of the tide - he had to cross Ardroil Sands to get the to the next checkpoint. If the tide was too far in, he would have to cycle round. Janet went ahead to look, saw some water but decided he could make it. So we waved him down on to the sands and drove round to the other side. How wet would he get? He had had a little paddling to do but he made it. A short climb took him up to the Community Centre and the end of another epic day. Another 32 points were in the bag - only 20 to go!
Uig Community Centre - Another fine meal was provided at the community centre. Janet went home to her own bed for the night while the rest of us enjoyed a beer and a yarn. Murdie had had another good paddle - even the dreaded narrows in Little Loch Roag had proved navigable. However, we had let him down at the end. We assumed that transport had been arranged to get the paddlers back to the hall. We did not know that they had changed the start of tomorrow's canoe leg and that we should have gone down and moved his boat to Bhaltos. Thankfully, Murdie had managed to thumb a lift with the Fire Brigade team and his boat was in position.
We tried to sort out how we were going to get the last 20 points we needed. We settled on me doubling up a coastal run with Janet and a road bike section with Donald. We had a plan.
Friday 30 August 2001 - The Run for Home!
Uig Community Centre - Murdie headed for Bhaltos and the start of his paddle to Carloway, while we headed for chez Janet. She appeared with an armful of flasks and food and a new plan! She suggested that three of us run from Galson to Ness Lighthouse for 2 sets of 12 bonus points. 24 points was 4 more than we needed but this sounded good.... we had a new plan! We set off for Carloway pier and the start of our day.
Bhaltos - Berneray - Carloway - I never did hear how Murdie had got on on this leg. He had to paddle to Bosta beach on Great Bernera and then climb to the highest point on the island. This epic climb to the summit of Shalaval Biorach at 87m was probably carried out in full canoeing gear - I hope he left the paddle behind! He then had to return to the beautiful Bosta beach and paddle to Carloway pier. In the best weather of the race, this would have been superb.
Carloway pier - Aird Laimishader - Gearranan - Murdie arrived at the pier just in front of two other teams. I set off for Aird Laimishader lighthouse as fast as I could manage but within a mile both of them passed me. One of them was the Greek lady, obviously the fast ground and clear skies suited her! This was a lovely coastal run over short cropped grass. I did my best to keep up with them as we reached the lighthouse and turned north along the wonderful rocky inlets above the Atlantic Ocean. But my legs just felt leaden and I soon lost sight of them. Nevertheless I really enjoyed this beautiful run and felt I had done my best as I tagged Janet at the magnificently restored Blackhouse Village at Gearranan.
Gearranan - Dalbeg - Janet had an equally enjoyable run along the spectacular Atlantic cliffs, the view as she turned the headland above Dalmore beach was one of the most scenic parts in the whole race. Not that she had time to enjoy it! She pushed on past the sandy beach with its crashing waves. She climbed to the next checkpoint, from where she could see Dalbeg beach and the end of her leg. If she had looked further she would have seen the Butt of Lewis Lighthouse all of 23 miles away, we would be there later in the day. Donald took over on his road bike and headed for Shawbost.
Beinn Rahacleit (248m) - I took over from Donald and headed up the track to Beinn Rahacleit on my mountain bike. I left it at the water works and tried to jog all the way to the summit (as I had done a month before on a training run) but my legs were not having it. After four hard days, I had to settle for a fast walk. Still, despite a very painful leg, I was able to enjoy a fast run back down to my bike and an even faster downhill cycle. I tagged Donald for what was going to be an epic stint for him.
Shawbost to Galson - Nice fast road bike section for Donald.
Galson to Butt of Lewis Lighthouse - Donald wasn't given much chance to draw breadth - a quick change and we were off. Resplendent in Deutche Telekom bike shirts we even looked like a team! I cant remember what we were laughing about but we were in high spirits right from the start of the leg. Janet could not stop laughing as we used humour to numb the pain. Donald was heading home and showed us the way. Janet and I struggled to keep up with him - blasted cylist! This was a fantastic run past a constant succession of gorgeous deserted beaches - the only thing we saw (or should I say smelled!) on any of them was a dead whale! What a brilliant way to spend an hour! We reached Europie and Murdie was waiting for us with three bikes at the ready. Just before we started the run Janet had noticed that we would all have to reach the Butt of Lewis or we would not earn the bonus points. Well spotted! Normally doubling up only applied off-road!
Janet jumped on my mountain bike and sped off for the lighthouse - Donald and I on our road bikes were well impressed as we had to work hard to keep up!
Dun Bileascleitir to Coll Sands - Despite having gone none stop since Shawbost, Donald insisted on cycling the next tarmac section to Skigersta road end. Where I jumped on my mountain bike for a bone jarring blast along a peat road to within half a mile of the next checkpoint. Particularly bone jarring because Donald had pumped my tires up to 90psi last night for a road section and I had forgot to lower it to my usual 40psi! I reached the checkpoint - a ruined building set on the edge of a sheer cliff. I ran back to my bike and headed back to Skigersta. I soon realised why I had gone so fast on the way out - I had had a gale blowing me along. Now it was blowing full in my face and I was having to work really hard.
I soon reached Skigersta and Donald set off for the 30 mile cycle to Coll. He was having a tough day! I was ready to take turns with him but he was determined to go all the way - provided we kept his drinks bottle full!
We had chosen to cycle in and out then on to Coll using the main road - most of the other teams had ran from Skigersta to Garry Sands then cycled to Coll. Which would be quickest? Only time would tell!
Coll Sands - Braighe - Donald arrived just behind one of the teams who had taken the Tolsta route - looks like we had chosen the quickest way. Murdie set off in hot pursuit of their paddler, we could see he was determined to close the gap.
We jumped into the van and drove round to the Braighe. Murdie had done it, he had caught and passed the other team. Now came the foot race - of sorts. We had to carry the canoe across the Braighe so that Murdie could continue his paddle to town. We picked up Murdie's canoe and trotted up the beach - the other team trotted faster and caught us. We were neck and neck and heading for the gate. Donald whispered to Janet and suddenly we were off. We were running to reach the gate first. Good move! Well not exactly - it turned out they could run faster and they reached the gate first! We were all in stitches - this was competitive instincts gone mad! We chased them across the road and raced them down to the beach. What was the result? Murdie was playing catch up again!
Braighe - Cuddy Point - Their canoeist headed off to go round the island - Murdie used local knowledge to head for the shallows and cut through. He had him!
We drove round to Cuddy Point and waited for Murdie to appear. Not only had he passed him he had passed another team as well. Another superb paddle from our paddling legend. He arrived and I headed for the Mountain Bike Orienteering leg.
Castle Grounds MTB Orienteering - This event suited me, I am pretty good on a mountain bike and I know the Castle Grounds really well - I was going to fly round the course. Yet another nice theory! I raced to the control map and started to copy the checkpoints down - well I would have done if I could see them! I had forgotten to put my contact lenses in! I shouted to Janet to find my glasses in the van but she couldn't. I yelled for Donald, he would have to do the first leg instead of me! Oops!
He took off and found all the checkpoints without a problem, Murdie and Janet now had to go out and find the same set of checkpoints. They came back with huge grins on their faces. They had loved it. Now it was my turn. Donald had had a chance to fill me in as to where the checkpoints were. So I took off and didn't even use the map. Up to the Castle Gardens, over to the back of Strawberry Hill, down to the Iron Well, up Gallows Hiill (on foot) out to Windy Corner and back to Cuddy Point picking up 10 checkpoints on the way. I did it in 24 minutes (three minutes quicker than the next fastest time) and finished feeling absolutely exhilerated - talk about an adrenalin high!
Paddle to the FINISH - Straight across to a little rubber dinghy for the final team paddle to the finish. We had watched other teams struggle to control their over-loaded dinghies but we had learned from their mistakes. We made good time and reached the finish line. We were very disappointed to find that there wasn't even a marshal there and that the finish banner had already been removed. A team photo in front of some scaffolding poles was not quite what we had in mind after four and half days of tough adventure racing!
Never mind what the finish looked like - it WAS the FINISH! We had done it, we had completed the whole route despite losing Graham on the way AND we had gained more that the 140 bonus points necessary to avoid time penalties. What a team!
Was it worth it? Absolutely! We visited the highest point on every permanently inhabited island in the Outer Hebrides. We ran on on everything from peat bogs to boulder covered summits, from fantastic ridges to spectacular coastlines. We mountain biked along miles of beautiful sandy beaches, grassy machair tracks and ancient mountain trails. The sea kayaking was as good as it gets - a paddlers paradise! The challenge was both physical and mental and we had to work both as a team and as individuals. At the end of each day, the local Community Halls provided us with great food! What more could you want? The race has everything an adventure racer could wish for! Come and try it! Book your holidays for May 6 - 10 2002 - I already have!